Sluggish and slow 1995 e300d after IP O'ring replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

spyder5029 · #1 11-11-2008, 12:37 PM

Hi,

Im so glad i found this site, as it has so much helpfull info. Anyhow here is my problem, I have a 1995 e300d, it has a 606 enginge in it, and recently it developed a leak on top of the IP where the metal fuel lines attach. I bought new orings and copper washers from the dealer, and I started the job. I wish i found this site before I started, as I would have known I needed a special tool to get toi those orings. Anyhow, after getting the tool in my hands, I removed the fittings one by one, and used a magnet to pull out the copper washers, but I also removed the metal part underneath the washer. I swapped the washers, and put these parts pack in, pretty much the same way I took them out. I also replaced the gasket on the warming chamber, as I saw some fuel getting through there. I didnt replace the plastic lines, as those were replaced about 2 years ago. My problem is this, after putting everything pack, it took about 30 minutes to get the car running again ( air in the lines) After I had it started, I let it run for over an hours on my driveway, and that took some of the air out. I drove it around the block a few times, and it was very slugish, and idled very rough. The next day I started it again, and it ran abit smoother, again, drove it aroung the block, and seemed to be a bit better. Yesturday however, my wife was trying to start it in the morning to go to work, but she couldnt get it going. After 15 minutes of cranking it finally turned over. I let her take my car, and I took the hers instead. As soon as I got it out of the driveway, there was a distinctive metal banging , as if though a cylinder was hitting something metal. After a few minutes of this, I got it up to a bit higher revs' and the noise went away. I drove it to work and back, and the car was very sluggish. it was rather hard to build it up to 60mph on the highway, but I figured it was still the air in the system. When i got home, I checked the fuel lines, and they seemd alot better, there was still air in the lines, but not nearly as much as yesturday. This monring my wife took the car to work, and once she got it on the highway, the became very sluggish for about 10 minutes, where her top speed was about 45mph, after which it ran somewhat normal for the remainder of her drive to work. Any suggestions on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

TMAllison · #2 11-11-2008, 01:01 PM

Replace ALL fuel line and pre-filter orings and resolve the air first. I suppose you could also check to make certain the vacuum lines to the resonance and egr flaps are properly installed too.

fryerpower.com sells viton orings for the 606; the kit is for the turbo model and will have orings you wont use. This site also has them in OEM Buna rubber. If you want to get your own search my posts and 606.962 orings for the sizes.

If problems persist afterwards we can address at that time.

spyder5029 · #3 11-11-2008, 01:10 PM

I replaced all the orings on the IP already, and since I did that job, im having these issues.

TMAllison · #4 11-11-2008, 01:55 PM

Now do the rest of them; your air is comming from one or more bad seals at a fuel line, prefilter or shutoff valve.

connerm · #5 11-11-2008, 01:58 PM

You may have forgotten to replace the vac lines on the resonator flaps on the intake. Or, you have the original wiring harness and you bumped something and broke it or cracked it while you were in there. Did you torque the delivery valve nuts properly?

spyder5029 · #6 11-11-2008, 03:17 PM

thank you for your replies...I really appreciate this help... I will replace the pre-filter
seal, as I haven’t replaced that. The shut-off valve does leak slightly, but it has been this way for a while already, and hasn’t been causing this issue before. I did replace the vac lines, if I remember correctly there we three, along with the two electrical plugs. I was very carefull, as I know these things are rather fragile, I did not torgue the delivery nuts to specs, as I don’t have any material with specs to go by, but I am confident in my hands…I don’t see how the small amount of air can cause this car to top out at 45mph though. Any more suggestions are greatly appreciated…

BTW. I replaced the evaporator on this car this summer, took about 15 hours of work, but the AC works great...now If i could get this engine ticking correctly...lol

TMAllison · #7 11-11-2008, 03:44 PM

If the prefilter oring is bad you will see air in the line that exits the bottom of the prefilter housing. The SOV oring does cause leaks, it will first show in the lil line from SOV to lift pump and all lines beyond that in the fuel flow path. You also have a couple of plastic fuel lines that also rely on oring seals. Theres a couple more on the shaft of your kill switch too.

Air may or may not be the only issue at play. Your best bet is to get it running with no air present and then deal with whatever problems are left.

spyder5029 · #8 11-11-2008, 06:47 PM

I replaced the remaining orings, and I dotn see a drop of diesel anywhere, but I still have some bubles in the lines, I guess it will take time to clear those out. The car however is still the same, idles rough, and I can bearly get it up to 60mph on the highway ( i took it for a test drive ). I also noticed that the gears shift hard, especially from 2-3rd, there seems to be a loud bang comming from the rear of the car. Also, when I replaced the orings on the IP itself last weekend, i did remove few of the assemblies that the copper washer is sitting on. I will include a picture for referance.

Thanks again

engatwork · #9 11-11-2008, 08:25 PM

Quote:

removed the metal part underneath the washer

Not exactly sure which part you removed but if it is the cylinder shaped metal piece then the IP will have to come off and be repaired. I would suggest taking it to an authorized Bosch shop and having them repair it.

The good thing is that the IP is easy to remove/install on this application.

spyder5029 · #10 11-11-2008, 08:48 PM

Hi,

I removed the cylinder that the copper crush washer sits on. Im trying to attch a picture of that part. Is there anyway to fix the issue myself?

Thanks

engatwork · #11 11-11-2008, 08:56 PM

This is not good.

What happens when the cylinder is put back into the hole and it is not properly lined up it shears the end of an indexing pin off. The fix is to remove the IP side cover and see if there is enough pin to push it further in. I did the same thing on one port on the same application IP and had the IP shop fix it. Hopefully there is enough pin left to push it in where it will index the way it is supposed to.

spyder5029 · #12 11-11-2008, 09:06 PM

Jim,

Thanks for the quick reply. So Im guessing I didnt seat one of these properly, come to think of it, one was raised about 1/6" higher than the rest, which would cause an inproper amount of fuel to flow to the cylinder, or no fuel at all, hence the rough idling, and very weak performance. So, if Im lucky, I didnt tear the pin of completely, and it can be fixed. Is this somehting I should attempt? I am mean, at athis point how much more damage can I do?

Thanks again

engatwork · #13 11-11-2008, 09:17 PM

Quote:

at this point how much more damage can I do

Worst case around $1500 which is the cost of an IP rebuild from what I have heard.

I do think you will want it on the bench when you do it. I suspect it is pretty straight forward to make the repair once it is on the bench and the side cover is off.

spyder5029 · #14 11-11-2008, 09:20 PM

Jim,

is there anything else I should be aware of when removing the IP? I dont have a good repair manual for this car.

Thanks

engatwork · #15 11-11-2008, 09:35 PM

Nothing complicated about it but you do need to put the engine at a certain position before removing the IP (in relation to tdc #1). You will need to search to see what degrees to set the crank, I don't remember what the number is.