|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
1979 300D engine swap
Hello everyone! I am happy today because I finally found a good donor engine from another 1979 300D here in Pensacola. I just finished the compression test on the donor and it has over 280# on each cylinder with a cold test.
My mechanic and I are going to remove the engine next week and clean it up and start removing accessories and other parts I don't need. I'm using all the accessories from my 79' since they are all new or in good shape. I am also re-using my injection pump. I am looking for advice from members on which gaskets I should go ahead and order now (ie; crank seal, injection pump to block gasket, valve cover gasket, etc). The donor block has been sitting for a few months but appears to only have surface corrosion and is still full of oil. I'm sure I haven't thought of a lot with this project so I would appreciate any lessons learned from those who have done it. Thanks a lot!!! God bless. Brandon and Megan Oswald Pensacola, FL 1979 300D 1985 300D Turbo PS. The donor car is a blue on blue 1979 300D that is a parts car. I am the second one to get to it since only the injection pump has been taken off. The body is cancerous rust but I would say most of the undercarriage, brakes, drivetrain, and accessories are probably fine. My mech said it was running when it came in but the owner doesn't want to mess with the degrading body. Let me know if you're interested in any parts before I start ebaying them. I'll try and post pics and more info soon. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I hate to rain on your parade but 280 psi is not steller compression.
__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
hows the dash? Im looking for a nice blue dash
__________________
1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Arn't those like hens teeth? I guess you did score a 5 speed...
__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
No, not stellar, but adequate as long as all cylinders are within 10% of each other. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Donor car condition
lutzTD, the dash is not in great shape. It is intact but has at least 6 cracks that run from front to back. The instrument cluster and controls all look good though.
Like I said, I'll try to take some pics tomorrow and post them for your perusal. As for the cylinder compression, I initially did a dry test which is to say I had all the injectors out and only ensured that there was oil in the engine. This engine had not been turned over for close to six months according to my mech. I quickly went through each cylinder and got these readings: 1. 255 psi 2. 250 psi 3. 280 psi 4. 280 psi 5. 240 psi I consulted with my mech since this was my first compression test and he advised me to pour a couple ounces of oil in each cylinder and retest. My new readings for 1, 2 and 5 cylinders were 310 psi each. I did not re-test the other two since my battery was draining quickly and I had to run to work. Should I retest the 3 and 4 cylinders as well? Does anyone have other advice too? I'm anxious to get some parts ordered so I'll have them on hand next week when we pull this thing. I'm trying to be patient but our 1979 has been a practical nightmare since we bought it. It feels like I'm finally close to having a mechanically sound car to match the nice interior. Thanks again, Brandon Oswald |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
ask 100 times SOMEBODY'S got to say yes.....
__________________
1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Pop upper and lower pan, do it right..
Thats much better on the compression, it helps to know how long this donor engine has set and when last ran. from my own experience if i'm pulling and engine out of anything to put into a car to keep, I would pull oil pan upper and lower and replace gasket with new mercedes black sealer. and since the oil pan is off go ahead and replace rear rope seal just requires retorqueing mains, and while your there depending on how many miles this so called donor has I personally would look at all the rod bearings and mains and roll some new ones in, it not that hard and your already there, just take your time roll them in one at a time and retorque rods and mains, much easier to know about and issue now and not later, but i'm just and old engine mechanic and I have worked on more then i could keep count on. so rr engine pull both pans , examine rod and main bearings, check size and order what you need, lower gasket set main bearings, rod bearings,. would also be a good time to roll in a new chain while your at it, check your oil pump chain and pump.
But then again I'm just and old Mercedes Mechanic. and I do rebuild them often. And i don't like come backs to bite me later. , thats just and expression all of us old mechanic,s know what can happen if you don't plan for every detail. good luck Jerry |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
if you have an engine that old, and its out of the car...
You should do as much as possible before you drop it in your waiting chasis. The statement above, and the headgasket, valve stem seals, and buy an engine gasket set and replace as many as you can. Consider this all deferred maintenance. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Those are all very poor numbers, in the rebuild range if a valve adjustment doesn't raise it.
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
What's the instrument cluster like, am interested if it doesn't have a tac?
Ron |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
A 79 wouldn't have a tach. Only the 300SD had one up until 1982.
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
cluster
Quote:
And yes, I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a tach. Thanks Brandon |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Update
Sorry all, don't have time to post tonite. I just spent 4 hours fixing the holes in my fuel tank on our 1985 300D Turbo that the car audio guy drilled when he installed my amp on Monday. Seems he didn't check behind the wall in the truck before drilling.
The work this morning on the donor 79' went well. It will be ready to have the engine hoisted on Tuesday. I'll post pics on Sunday hopefully of the parts we pulled today. Thanks, Brandon |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
I would replace the rings and check the hatch marks on the cylinder sleeves as well. Since the compression numbers improved when wet suggests almost worn out rings.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
Bookmarks |
|
|