So just when i almost had everything sorted out to do my front suspension rebuild, I discover engine oil in my radiator.

I think it all started one morning some days ago when the engine misfired. It has always started right up so i thought this was kind of strange. I always glow twice what the relay says. Over the next couple of days the engine started making a new noise, like if you shake some coins in a glass. I've had trouble with overcooling so I already bought a new Thermostat. Then I noticed that my temp gauge where showing quite high readings. I wondered what it could be and thought my car was low on coolant. So I let i rest for some time till it was cold enough to touch the radiator cap. I put my finger in to check the coolant level and it came out covered in engine oil..

I'm quite paranoid when it comes to strange noises coming from my car, but engine oil in my coolant I know can't be too good. I've searched around and come to the conclusion that my head gasket are blown.

So, what do you think could possibly be wrong, and is there some way to check if the head gasket really is blown without tearing the engine apart?

A compression test could tell you.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

If not the head gasket, where else could the oil be comming from?

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Yep, if engine oil is in the coolant, best case would be a blown head gasket. Worst is cracked head or block.

BTW year and model would be good info to add.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

It's an 1983 300d non-turbo.

Could I drain the coolant and wait until the problem worsens or is this a "do-or-die" fix?

The problems with letting this go are:

1. Coolant will destroy the main and rod bearings.

2. Oil in the coolant passages reduces engine cooling efficiency.

So, basically it is a do or die. Do a compression check just like kerry advised.

You will have to remove the head to change out the gasket, plus it is the only way to tell if the head or block cracked, unless there is external seepage as well. External can tell you if it is the gasket or not also, but is not a guarantee.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

not to make it sound worse.. but if you are in there with the head off and do NOT see a visible defect in the gasket you may want to have the head checked for cracks. Most of the time, if you have water leaking into a cylinder it will look markedly different from the others. Another trick, is when you get your engine started crack each injector line and see what cylinders change and what one doesnt. You said your getting oil into the water, are you getting water in the oil? Since the oil is pumping at over 45 psi vs 15ps max for the cooling system, any defect is going to be in favor of oil in water. I would carefully look around any oil passage that is near a cooling passage as well.

While apart, you may want to consider exchanging the timming chain since your halfway there any how. Idk how many miles are on your car, but anything over 150K, keep an eye on it.

Rick

Oil in the coolant means oil is passing from the high pressure oil system into the low pressure coolant. Blown headgasket.

Coolant in oil or oil in coolant, both are very bad for the engine's health.

Now here is some top notch advice.

Well i guess you all where right in your assumptions. I had friend of a friend who's a mechanic have a look at my car and he estimated it would cost approx. 1000$ to replace the head gasket.

Well, i just stumbled upon one rusty 300TDT with a great engine. Mine's a euro version that doesn't have either turbo nor ABS, this one does. The engine has only run 149.750 miles and it cost me half of the repair 500$. Great!

$1000?! A head gasket set is only $50. There is no possible way it would take $950 of labor to change it. Sounds like your "mechanic friend" just didn't want to do the job.

Even at $100/hour that sounds a bit, er, aggressive.

How many hours should it take, those that have done it? As a WAG I could see it being around 4 hours due to the overhead cam and timing issues. Say 6 hours in an estimate to allow for unforseen problems.

If one was to replace the head gastket what else should you figure on replacing with the heads off? Timing chains and valve guides? What else? Valve job?

if it aint broke dont fix it. lol

I would seriously as preventative maintanance replace the chain and guides. Thats about it. Guides dont usually go bad, and unless your having issues with it, just the chain and rails would be it for replacements. I would though, adjust the valves once your done, as they tend to tighten up the clearances. If you see any visible problems such as hoses or other things that look like they need help, replace them. Some items could include the air cleaner mounts, breather hoses, etc. Since you will have the cooling system drained at least change the bypass hose near your thermostat, and replace that as well. Cheap insurance, and less headaches down the road.

Happy Turkey day!!!

This thread has transformed my 190D 2.5 from a daily driver to a "project." Knowledge that oil in my coolant reservoir will damage rod/main bearings has taken the car off the road until fixed. I had planned on replacing the blower motor and combination switch, now I have an extra job to add to the list. As a 19 yr old, I pulled the head on a '63 289 in a Galaxie 500. It was a major job but I was able to complete it with the help of my Dad.
I noticed oil in the reservoir about 3 weeks ago. I hope that it is not too late.

I suppose that I should check the compression before I yank the head, but what else could it be that wouldn't require pulling the head anyway?

Thanks for any advice -

__________________
327K on 1986 W201, 602.911, 722.414 2.5 190D ("The Red Baron")
139K on 1993 W124, 104.942, 722.433 2.8 300E ("Queen")

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/...0bb92d3c_m.jpg http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...g?t=1325284354

Do not worry about your difficulties in Mathematics. I can assure you mine are still greater.
- Albert Einstein

take a walk down memory lane...

I still recommend a person change his own head gasket. After the first time it will seem fairly easy usually.

The five hundred dollar engine sounds interesting. Do you also pay someone to change it? If so there are no savings. It is impractical to use paid service for all the jobs required on the old mercedes diesels. The paid for service bills are rough enough on much newer cars just over warranty mind our antique diesel mercedes cars.