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where to install a tank coolant heater - PICTURES ADDED!!!
have any of you installed this type of heater? I was wondering what the best location is. In looking at the cooling/heating sys., it would seem that if I plumbed it into the heater line branch off the water pump, and then back in where the heater line returns to the head, I would get full ciculation through the block without restriction from the thermostat. Does that seem right?
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1983 300td - Velvet 265,000 mi 1975 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 160,000 mi 2004 Toyota 4runner 103,000 mi If I have seen farther, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants. - sir isaac newton Last edited by cavalierz; 11-24-2008 at 05:10 PM. Reason: added pics |
#2
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you can get an adapter from jc whitney to use in the block drain hole- route that to the cold side of the heater, then have it flow up into the waterpump area.
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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
#3
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so the way I am suggesting won't work? I am trying to get it done this weekend and JC's will take a week to get here. Please let me know if it won't work.
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1983 300td - Velvet 265,000 mi 1975 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 160,000 mi 2004 Toyota 4runner 103,000 mi If I have seen farther, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants. - sir isaac newton |
#4
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I don't think you want full on engine heat, if for any reason you overheat then you will be really stressing the in tank heater and heating the fuel a lot more than you need. 80*c fuel is pretty unnecessary, and will speed up wear on your fuel lines and maybe even IP. I think tapping the heater would be your best bet, or at least the cold side of the radiator.. just to avoid really hot coolant.
Before you start heating and allowing fuel to cool and repeating, MAKE SURE that your tank vent isn't plugged. I've seen instances on here where peoples tanks have imploded from negative pressures you'll be dealing with, also added pressure from heating fuel could rupture fuel lines that aren't up to par. Are you looking to do bio/wvo? Edit: I really need to stop getting on here early in the morning.. Last edited by nickofoxford; 11-23-2008 at 12:45 PM. |
#5
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i am not heating the fuel tank. The type of coolant heater that I purchased is referred to as a "tank style circulation heater." It is strictly for heating the block/coolant.
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1983 300td - Velvet 265,000 mi 1975 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 160,000 mi 2004 Toyota 4runner 103,000 mi If I have seen farther, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants. - sir isaac newton |
#6
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tank type heater
If I understand correctly you got one of those "tank style" heaters - similar to what JCWhitney sells - to serve as a block heater, correct? I believe this has to be installed down low as it circulates heated coolant only by convection. You should be able to connect it in the the return line from the heater (between the electric aux coolant pump and the water pump. I bought one and got ticked off trying to fit in there so it's still on the shelf.
If you can put it off I think you'd be much happier with a block heater from Diesel Giant. He sells a unit ($85.00, I think) that is installed in a new lower radiator hose. Drain the coolant, replace your old hose with this, route the power cable out the front of the car, refill and drive. Much better solution than trying cobble that tank unit in there somewhere. Good luck! |
#7
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Your coolant heater does have a pump doesn't it? I was looking at the Zerostart heaters as well, but haven't ever put one it.
I think you can T in to the hose that comes out of the head and feeds the heater (near the oil filter) and return it near the aux. water pump...I think this is what you suggested in your first post. This would circulate the coolant in the way it normally flows...I'll attach a schematic of the coolant flow. I have my VO system tapped into these very hoses and it wasn't too difficult to place the fittings. But I think you do need to position the tank/heater component low...maybe the pump is not self-priming, I'm not sure. Alternatively, I have a lower hose heater (like the previous poster mentioned) and I got the heater from NAPA, it was $30 or so, and I cut my own lower heater hose and put it in there. Its worked well for me. edit...I forgot the attachment...just uploaded it
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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi 1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now Last edited by pizzachef; 11-23-2008 at 02:19 PM. |
#8
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well, its in, after some cussing and knuckle busting to tighten the hose clamps. Here's what I did.
I mounted the coolant heater using the supplied strap near the lower right (passenger) corner of the rad (after drilling a new hole between the existing 2 in the strap) . There is a small hole in the subframe there that was able to use. I chose this location because the heater was out of the way of all the accessories, and it was as low as it could go. In fact, it is lower than the oil pan, which is important because this style of heater relies on convective circulation to flow coolant. I T'd into the heater line up near the oil filter - ran that hose across the back of the block and followed the heater line down the passenger fender to the OUT side of the coolant heater. I then T'd into the heater hose that i followed down - the one that comes out of the water pump and took that line to the IN side of the coolant heater. I'd rate this a 2 banana job (out of 5) due to having to twist my hands like a contortionist. All total, took about 2 hours - probably would have gone faster if it wasn't 26 degrees out. I opted not to do the in hose type like diesel giant has because I could not see how it would circulate through the block that well. I am not saying they don't work, I just think the circ type work better (based on personal observation of friends diesel and gas trucks/cars). Also, I realize that will lose heat in the 4 foot hose run that the coolant makes, but I think the 1500w will make up for that, also, once the flow starts, it will move fairly quickly through there. I will try to get a picture up if i get some time this afternoon. No prob on the confusion nick. We are all a liitle S l o w in the am. Oh and it would seem that my routing reverses the flow when compared to the schematic, but I think it should be ok since it goes from low to high like it should
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1983 300td - Velvet 265,000 mi 1975 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 160,000 mi 2004 Toyota 4runner 103,000 mi If I have seen farther, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants. - sir isaac newton Last edited by cavalierz; 11-23-2008 at 02:23 PM. Reason: forgot something! |
#9
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So...the test results are in. I finished up at roughly noon installing the heater. I let the car sit and get cold all day after that. At roughly 7:15pm I, plugged in the heater and started my stop watch. At exactly one hour from the time I plugged in, I went back out and felt the hoses/block/valve cover/etc. All were hot! I figured I would try to start the beast, and it fired very quickly - about 4 seconds of cranking with no glow. Blew hot air right away too. Overall, I could not be happier, and all for 50 bucks including the extra T fittings and hose clamps.
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1983 300td - Velvet 265,000 mi 1975 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 160,000 mi 2004 Toyota 4runner 103,000 mi If I have seen farther, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants. - sir isaac newton |
#10
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Wow, you had hot air blowing? Pretty good.My lower hose heater makes starting a lot easier, but it still takes a little driving to get the air warm.
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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi 1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now |
#11
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yeah,
I couldn't be happier with it. Now I just have to get a timer for the plug...waking up at 5 to go outside and plug in really was not ideal
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1983 300td - Velvet 265,000 mi 1975 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 160,000 mi 2004 Toyota 4runner 103,000 mi If I have seen farther, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants. - sir isaac newton |
#12
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Quote:
I go out and get it started every morning so when she gets out there, the heater is blowing warm. I'd rather let her unplug it and start it up herself.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#13
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Chad, I really dig your little cartoon cars! I saw the wagon the other day, and now you've got the coupe in there too
Sweet.
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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi 1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now |
#14
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Thanks, I had extra time while waiting for my MityVac to suck the old oil out of the CD yesterday, so I added the coupe.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#15
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Yes, we need pictures. It's hard to beat the lower radiator hose heaters. I paid around $10 for mine on Ebay and it's about a half hour to install in the existing radiator hose. However, your system appears to produce more heat so it may be worth the extra $ and installation time.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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