On a 300d , 124 body, 603 engine, what is the procedure for replacing the lower oil pan, which has a very slow leak. PO tried to fix it with patching over but it still leaks a bit (enough to cause significant drips once panel under engine gets saturated).
I have heard that the engine has to be lifted to clear the cross member.
Is this true?
Is it practical to think about patching with some really good sealant? What might work as sealer?
Any hints, advice etc greatly appreciated.

The service manual calls for lifting the engine to remove the main oil pan. I can send you the PDF if you PM me an email addy.

Are you sure that the oil is not leaking from the "access panel" on the passenger side of the oil pan?

My PO obviously bottomed out the oilpan and repaired it with jbweld! This was hidden under the grime and I didn't notice it until the second oil change I performed...by that point I had determined that the engine wasn't leaking any oil and decided to let sleeping dogs lay. I'm not sure how he got it clean enough to stick however.

What do you mean by lower oil pan? The 603.96 has a main oil pan that attaches to the bottom of the block and a side chamber that sticks out under the turbo.

Removing the side pan is straightforward. Removing the main oil pan requires lifting the engine, as mentioned.

If the breach is in the main pan, try resealing when the pan is empty such as during an oil change. Let the oil drain for as long as possible so there's a minimal amount of oil confounding your sealing compound. JB Weld will probably work if given enough time to cure.

Sixto
87 300D

I found a product a while ago that was a fuel-tank repair epoxy/putty, the kind you cut a section off and knead the core and outer materials together.

Anyway, I repaired a leak in the bottom of a tank with 150gallons of diesel fuel still in it, held for two years until I replaced the tank bottom.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I don't know where you are (shipping), but I have a good pan from a 603.970 I removed last night, if it's compatible it can be had CHEAP. If you're lifting the engine anyway, ...

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I've had the oil pan off a 603......MB seems to have used a sealant, as opposed to a gasket... as I saw no evidence of a gasket, oddly, but I resealed the pan with Permatex, and it never leaked.....I had the engine out of the 124, by the way. Sixto is quite versatile, and is likely capable of doing it without pulling, so don't listen to him! Ha Ha...know he is well knowledged...please..he is... But it may also be possible to unbolt the engine mounts and pull up the engine a few inches to gain better accessibility, but only if you are a glutton for punishment! Just pull the engine, replace the transmission and rear main seals, replace any and all engine function parts including thermostat, water pump, and new engine mounts, to list a few. It's money well spent......Sooty Taillight....

We had to lift the engine to change mine when I bottomed it out a year ago. Don't remember exactly how we did it, except I do remember jacking the engine up from underneath rather than using a over-engine hoist.

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

I only say it's possible because the FSM has a section on that. I'd wait for oil to leak as fast as I pour it in so there's good reason to pull the engine completely out of the car.

Sixto
87 300D