I've finally had it with the inoperable cruise control on my 83 300D. My plan is to try and re-solder the circuit board. I'm in the middle of trying to get the amp out and need some help. I have the panel under the dash off and see the amp. I disconnected the plug but how is the amp attached? By using a mirror I see what looks like a 10mm bolt toward the back on the side. Is that it?

cruise control problems are mostly due to a bad cruise control amplifier, these can be repaired see www.tempomat.tk

There are 2 screw(Phillips IIRC), the first one toward the rear of the car is pretty easy. The one toward the front of the car is an absolute b%$#@. Putting that screw back in is close to impossible. I almost left it out on mine, but after much work was able to get it back in.

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'83 300D 198,000mi Howard
'03 Saturn Vue CVT 75,000mi(wifeys)

In my '85, I ended up bending the tabs on the aluminum case and sliding the pc board out. I just could not get the second bolt out so I could remove the whole package. Very frustrating!

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

forget the 2 screws, remove the one 10mm bolt, the whole bracket drops right out, easy...

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Agreed.

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83 SD

84 CD

I used the JEREMY5848 method. It is a hell of a lot easier than removing even the one 10mm bolt referred to. In my case (560SL) space to work is far more limited than in your sedan. A slight bend of 4 aluminum tabs and the pc board will pull right out with the case undisturbed.

I've removed a million of these. The 10mm nut is the way to go. 10mm socket [1/4" drive] with about a 4" extension. Then you just pull down the amp and bracket. Easy!
Sometimes those Phillips screws holding the amp to the bracket can be tight beyond belief. I can't imagine how to remove those with the bracket still attached.
Remove the 10mm and bracket!!

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

i've done both, and IMHO, its easier to remove 1 bolt the n flail around under ther w/ a lil screwdriver....

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Can I do an X8 on this instead of X1? Much easier this way. And I definitey have to agree, those two screws are Godzilla tight.

I ended up removing the screws because they weren't as tight as the 10mm bolt (tried that first).

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)