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  #1  
Old 12-05-2008, 01:27 PM
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Cold Weather Diesel - Remove Fan/Cover Grille?

Since I am MB diesel-less I am driving around my Cummins in 8F weather which having lived in 60F winter weather for 30 years is a shock. I can't reach operating temperatures of 190F. I reach 150F if I am lucky.

Has anyone tried removing the fan and or taping up the radiator airflow areas for the winter with positive or negative results?

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  #2  
Old 12-05-2008, 01:30 PM
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shouldn't your t-stat compensate for that? The radiator only cools what is sent through which is determined by the t-stat.

oh.. on a 123 series diesel
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:40 PM
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Some people block off part of the radiator with cardboard to restrict airflow and keep the heat in.
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  #4  
Old 12-05-2008, 01:42 PM
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The thermostat can only do so much. When I was a kid, people used to put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. Simple and it works - if it overheats, use a smaller piece of cardboard.
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  #5  
Old 12-05-2008, 02:25 PM
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doesn't it seem more likely that the block and the pan are being refridgerated if that is the case?

Blocking the raditator encloses the engine bay to reduce airflow, it only appears that the radiator is the link.

A properly functioning t-stat should not allow coolant flow until it is at the temperature it desires.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:28 PM
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Absolutely agree. For decades I have seen people do that in cars, have done it myself crossing Nevada in the winter of '90 when it was -30F or so out on I-80. It was an amazing sight – dead trucks all over as their diesel gelled and they ground to a halt. The trucks all seemed to have canvas covers that could be unfolded in a diamond shape to cover more or less of the radiator as they wished. I ended up putting cardboard in front of my radiator ('65 Olds in those days). By the time we got to Salt Lake the temp had risen to a balmy -10F.

Remember that part of the reason for the radiator cover is to allow the engine block to remain at a proper operating temp and thus keep the fuel system a bit warmer. Remember "carburetor icing?" I don't know if (gasser) FI systems have something similar but it's still a good idea to keep the engine compartment warm.

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Old 12-05-2008, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
The trucks all seemed to have canvas covers that could be unfolded in a diamond shape to cover more or less of the radiator as they wished.
Remember that part of the reason for the radiator cover is to allow the engine block to remain at a proper operating temp and thus keep the fuel system a bit warmer.
Jeremy
SO thats what those are for.. interesting.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Remember "carburetor icing?" I don't know if (gasser) FI systems have something similar but it's still a good idea to keep the engine compartment warm.
Not an issue with fuel injection. No Venturi throat (which is where the icing occured).
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2008, 03:10 PM
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If your T-stat is working correctly you do not need to block your radiator. <- period
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  #10  
Old 12-05-2008, 03:19 PM
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My E300 didn't get too warm at all during short around town trips. I would see the temp needle drop while idling in the driver thru...
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  #11  
Old 12-05-2008, 03:47 PM
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8F is cool but not cold and if your thermostat were working correctly you'd have no problems... I noticed today my 240D too way longer than I'd have expected to get up to operating temp at ~15F. If that continues it'll be new thermostat time which is annoying since I just got a parts order...

Yeah sometimes the temp will go down at a drive through or something, don't use drive throughs, they're for fat. lazy Americans...
I've driven my 240D down around -20F and while it takes a bit longer to heat up it'll get to operating temp after a few (alright maybe 10 at that temp) miles.
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:56 PM
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In theory, you shouldn't have to make any changes to the cooling system from summer to winter but I believe that even with a properly functioning system, the ambient temperature effects the running temp of the engine. You can observe this by watching the temp gauge. It'll always be holding steady but runs a little low or high depending on whether it's winter or summer. I can't remember the name of this phenomenon - might be "lag" or something like that.

I don't see any harm in covering part of the radiator if your looking for a few more degrees.
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2008, 04:04 PM
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If your car was originally equipped with a belly pan (ex: 124, 126, 201 and newer), run with one in the winter. It was designed to keep the engine compartment up to an efficient operatiing temperature and has thermostatically-controlled doors in the side to maintain proper temperatures.
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  #14  
Old 12-05-2008, 05:02 PM
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Thanks for all the input, I think such issues are new to me and yet universal for the diesel world.

I have been chasing two problems now. One is determining if the current thermostat is faulty and secondly how to cope with it since the engine is not retaining heat.

It was purchased with a 140F thermostat for running in the blazing heat of Phoenix, AZ and so once replacing it it only went up to 160F. I figured it was faulty since the temp was low and then again replaced it about a month ago in preparation for winter. The current tstat hits 190F (where it should be) then drops dramatically back to 150 and then climbs back up to 190F.

Since it's been cold (for me) the engine barely hits 150F without any fluctuation so I am thinking of trying to first block the grille or alternately pull the fan since apparently the cooling system is doing too good of a job!
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  #15  
Old 12-05-2008, 05:07 PM
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not a clue

don't know if this is any help, but when my brother's and father take their trucks up north to tow snowmobile trailers(05 Duamax, 01&99 Cummins). They always use a leather cover that goes over the grill and keeps it from cooling down too much.

good luck, i'll ask them for some more info over the weekend, i know they have had similar issues in cold weather.

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