I just swapped the engine in my 1984 300tdt wagon. I took pictures of the engine compartment because this was my first MB swap. The pics were helpful in reassembly especially with all the vacuum tubes. I have the new motor in and running ok but the turbo doesn't seem to come on. Also, low power on take off and seems to shift too soon (4th gear at 25mph). I will check the screen in the fuel tank and change the fuel filter which may address the lack of power problem. But the turbo, what makes it kick in? Did I miss a wire or tube? The new motor is supposed to have about 100k on it. Seems to idle fine and no smoke. I put in new nozzles (bozio) and new glow plugs. New air filter. Also saw from posts that I need to check the 2 relative banjo bolts to make sure they are clean. I guess my next steps are to check the IP timing and/or timing chain but I was hoping that I'm just missing a simple wire hook up or something like that.
Don't be too hard on me now. I'm the guy who busted the valve stem trying to adjust the valves. I'll turn the nut the other way this time.

how do you know?

Adjust linkages, after fresh install, it can't be right.

def. check the banjo. These turbos are going to go regardless. But if the wastegate is getting a bad reading.. that may dump exhaust pressure. Also read about 'ALDA'. But your linkage comes first - along with the Bowden cable for the trans. search 'how adjust transmission crucial'.

I agree. BUt electronics are not the problem.

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Also check the linkage where the IP stops the linkage from over travelling. Otherwise JT20's got you one the right list.

All good points. Take 1 issue at a time. I would suggest the linkages first, then boost.

As far as the boost goes, along with what other said, do you have an overboost sensor connected? If so, is it a new one or old one? A boost gauge would be very helpful here to verify it's a problem with boost (probably wastegate) or fuel supply (could be a few things).

If your engine/trans is set up to shift along with a properly boosted trans, it's not uncommon for it to shift very early if the engine isn't acting like it's getting boost. Does that make sense?

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

And here I thought Mercedes was all transistorized by 1984!

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
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"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

JT20 asked how I know the turbo isn't kicking in. When I had the other engine in the car there was a noticible power boost when I goosed it. Also, I think I could hear the thing start to whine a little. Neither of which happen now. I'll try adjusting the linkage (I'm assuming you mean the complelx throttle linkage) and bowden cable for the tranny. When I adjust the linkage am I just taking up the slack?

Also, I noticed a line at the firewall sort of hidden by the brake booster that didn't get reconnected. It's a vacuum line, I believe that would take a metal clip. I can't find a loose like to connect to it? Any chance that could be part of the problem? All of the vacuum related stuff seems to be working, door locks, etc. The engine also turns off when I turn the key off like it's supposed to do.

Then it's not a vacuum line. I'll be willing to bet it's the line going from the aft of the intake manifold that goes to the alda. That will prevent the IP from supplying extra fuel to go along with the boost and take away the power you are waiting for.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

Yow! I went to clean out the banjo bolt at the back of the intake manifold and......lo an behold....the banjo bolt was there but no line. I hooked up the line properly after cleaning and got my turbo back. I must have forgotten it in the heat of the engine swap. Now, about the Bowden cable that everyone mentions. Where is it and what does it look like? I've searched a lot of threads and there is much mention but I haven't seen any pictures or description. Apparently it can be turned one way or the other to delay shifting or cause it sooner.
Thanks for all of the help so far.

And yes, lowriderdog37, the loose line at the firewall was the one that goes to the banjo bolt. You hit the nailing diesel on the head.