How To Clean Injectors - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

zsmith29 · #1 12-09-2008, 05:39 PM

I don't know why but this seems like one of those jobs that is beyond my abilities. Who cares. Those are the ones I like to do.
I have never messed around w/ injectors at all but I think that now is the time to dive in.
Does anyone have any suggestions beside getting a deep well socket 27mm.

How do I clean them?
I am planning on taking them to a diesel shop locally to test them.
Any suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Zack Smith

JimSmith · #2 12-09-2008, 06:03 PM

Once you decide to undertake this job, get the necessary replacement heat shields, the hose for jumpering one injector to the next, and the deep socket you mentioned. You will also need a means to hold the injector body while you unscrew the nozzle holder. Been a while, but as I recall, it was quite a pain in the knuckles. The are pretty tight, so be sure you are not set up to smash your fingers when the joint finally breaks.

I considered cleaning mine, but they were pretty obviously burnt right in the area of the pintel/nozzle, so I just replaced the nozzles with matched pintels. In those days they were about $12 for the matched pair. For that kind of money I was not interested in finding out my cleaning job was not up to snuff after I put the whole schmier together.

But, overall the job is pretty straight forward. Good luck, Jim

winmutt · #3 12-09-2008, 06:22 PM

There is a tool kid sepcifically for this job. IIRC its not cheap. I have pulled injectors and taken them apart and then let them sit in varnish remover and then oil. Helped some not much. Not as much as the right tools and a pop tester.

toomany MBZ · #4 12-09-2008, 06:53 PM

I replaced nozzles in a set of five. Not difficult if you have a vise. If you have them tested, the shop will be able to tell you if they need replacing.

ARNOLDLewis · #5 12-09-2008, 07:12 PM

On-car injector cleaning involves feeding solvent under pressure into the injector fuel rail or supply line. The concentrated solvent passes through the injectors and loosens and washes away the accumulated varnish deposits. The results are usually good, and make a noticeable difference in idle smoothness, emissions and fuel economy.

winmutt · #6 12-09-2008, 07:47 PM

They need to be pop tested and reshimmed with new nozzles.

Diesel911 · #7 12-09-2008, 08:03 PM

How many miles do you think are on your Injectors?

zsmith29 · #8 12-10-2008, 11:17 AM

I don't know. I have drive the car for 15,000 miles.
They look like they could be original. And, judging by the rest of the car (very neglected when purchased) they might be.

I started the post last week about engine coming out of the dip stick and the engine rattle that developed recently. I am planning on adjusting valves, cleaning injectors, and possibly changing the timing chain. I suppose these are preventative measures that might cure the rattle and if they don't then I will drive her until she dies.

Are there any other relatively inexpensive jobs I should do to the engine when I have it open??

#9 12-10-2008, 11:36 AM

To be totally honest here its easier to send them off and have the nozzles replaced than it is to clean them. You might want to get a hold of C. Sean Watts or bgkast, getting them done this way in my opinion is much better especially if they are orginal.

zsmith29 · #10 12-10-2008, 12:28 PM

I PM him.
I also called around and the diesel shops said they would test them for free but to rebuild them would be b/w $50-$75 each.
What do you guys think about only rebuilding 1 or 2 if that is all that is needed?

oldsinner111 · #11 12-10-2008, 02:12 PM

If you are running free veggie,you can afford a new set once a year.Re cold filter your oil,I've burnt your oils.

C Sean Watts · #12 12-10-2008, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zsmith29

I PM him.
I also called around and the diesel shops said they would test them for free but to rebuild them would be b/w $50-$75 each.
What do you guys think about only rebuilding 1 or 2 if that is all that is needed?

That's a bit spendy. 100% new ones are in the $60-65 range.

winmutt · #13 12-10-2008, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C Sean Watts

That's a bit spendy. 100% new ones are in the $60-65 range.

There is no such thing as 100% new unless you have uncovered a stash no one knows about. All bosch injectors are remanned and made in India. You are much better off with rebuilding and using quality made in Germany nozzles.

C Sean Watts · #14 12-10-2008, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

There is no such thing as 100% new unless you have uncovered a stash no one knows about. All bosch injectors are remanned and made in India. You are much better off with rebuilding and using quality made in Germany nozzles.

I import 100% new, made in Germany complete, ready to install injectors. This is in addition to internal parts (nozzles, springs, etc.) They are made by Monark Diesel of Hamburg, in business since 1951. Of the many hundred I've seen, none have been short of perfect. I've had zero defect, zero warranty return.

Bosch no longer manufactures older design parts in Germany. For that reason, I have never sold, installed, recommended or shipped out anything NOT made in western Europe. In fact, 99% of my inventory is German made. Various hoses, gaskets, etc. today are often from France, Italy or UK. The Bosch - India/China debacle has cost them a major part of market share and more often than not, to companies making better parts. They are probably the most easily recognized name of European parts makers in the USA, but not the best by a long shot.

techboss · #15 12-10-2008, 05:34 PM

Zack,

I don't know if you remember me, but we met at an ETCFC meeting about this time last year. We talked briefly about home brewing BD and exchanged a couple of emails afterwards. If you want to tackle this at my house, I have the tools to do it (R&R the injectors, remove the nozzles -- I don't have a test bench yet). You will want to get the return hoses and heat shields mentioned before you tackle the job, plus my chosen method is to soak them in a couple of cans worth of brake cleaner. Also, because the car will be down for at least a couple of days, unless you live in or around Maryville, you'll need a spare car to get home in. If you live close by, I can get you home. I live east of Maryville in the Wildwood area, near Porter Elementary School.

My garage is so full of crap that I end up working in my driveway, which isn't always convenient. If you have a better work area, with some advance planning, I could meet you at your house one evening with my trusty tool box. Besides the stuff listed above, you will need a can or jar with a tight lid to spray the brake cleaner into for the parts to soak in.

Before you go through this trouble, have you used diesel purge on the fuel system yet? Under everyone's advice here, I did it on my 82 300D and it was AMAZING. The cans cost something like $12-15 a piece, and I ran two cans through my engine. I think it is even cheaper if you buy it directly from the distributor. I found that out after I bought mine on ebay. Phil may also sell it, I assume. I don't remember the web address of the distributor, but someone on the forum will. I have 4 cans at my house, and will share two with you if you will replace them. That is something simple we could do Saturday morning. Then, depending on the results, you could go a nozzle-ing or not.

Let me know. Saturday am is supposed to be pretty nice, and I planning on pulling the head off my OM603 (go figure) anyway. I'm tied up Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday. PM me and I'll give you all my contact info, if you're interested.