I was considering putting some injector line heaters on my 87 300D, and then running a relay that would only let them run if the engine was below 50C. It says it can heat up to 200F in 1-3 minutes.

Would there be any benefit to doing this? I don't have any problems starting, but if it helps warm up the engine faster / combust the fuel better until the coolant can warm up the fuel heater, I'd say it would be worth the small price. My car doesn't seem to be too happy with these below 25 days...or maybe it's just me feeling guilty.

I don't have access to an outlet to use my block heater, so I am just looking into other options. Not going to be using it for WVO or anything..

Anyone have experience with these? Opinions welcome too, good or bad

__________________
Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k

Yes,I use mine when warming up.I also can run other fuels if need be.

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

It will not warm up your engine faster.

Combustion may be facilitated by the heat on the lines when its really cold before reaching operating temp.

__________________

Your right.It stops the nailing until engine is warmed up.

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Yes, that is what I am hoping for it to help with! Good to hear.

__________________
Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k

I wouldn't say it stops the nailing but may limit it a bit. There is not a lot of heat transfer from the line heaters to the fuel inside the lines. They are more beneficial for stopping heat loss from the fuel when the fuel is warmed (think WVO users).

__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

No,mine shut the nailing up.I leave on,and drive her into town when below 21 degrees.

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Their useless. Lets say you heat the fuel up 50 degrees by the time it hits the injector. By the time it courses through the thick, cold and tight toleranced injector its going to be the temp of the injector, which is screwed tightly into the cold head, which is bolted onto the block. Theres no way your going to keep the fuel warm by the time it hits the end of the nozzle. I bet if your head is 28 degrees and your injector lines are 200, your probably going to get fuel at 29 degrees at the pintle. I think it would be better to take all those useless amps your draining and use them to heat the fuel before it enters the lift pump, benefiting the ip. Or better yet, use a block heater.


And people watch your amp draw! You have a diesel and you need all the amps you can possibly get to crank that thing over.

__________________
1981 300SD 512k OM603

Who would you be buying the Injector Line Heaters from and how much?
Are they made specific for Mercedes or Generic?

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Your entire post is a contradiction. Heating the fuel at the injector line, just prior to the injector is suggested here. You shoot down the theory with the reasoning that the injector and head will cool the fuel right back down. You go on to say that a better alternative would be to heat it before the IP. So now the fuel has the IP and all those extra inches of steel hose to cool the heated oil down??

EDIT: I think we are friends on the rev, dont take it personally =P

__________________
1993 2.6 (040) SportLinE 5-speed - Armed to the teeth w. roof rack/2x bike carriers/8x ski carriers/MB towing bumper
1993 2.6 (040) - deceased/reincarnated as a trailer.
1987 16v (702) - Now parting out(9/22/10)!!! - Email me your requests for 16v parts- Engine and full body kit avail!!
1987 300SDL (122)- For sale!

I think Turbo meant that energy draw is better spent alleviating the pump from the stress of pumping thick fuel.

ANd he is totally right about the fuel being cooled down by the head and injectors. Maybe a little dramatized, but we can prove it with math if it comes down to it.

__________________

Well, a few of the WVO kit companies sell them, but Fatty Wagon had specific kits for Mercedes. The 6 cyl one was $50 shipped, although I have seen a kit on ebay for $20. I don't think it really involves much, I could probably go build my own for around $20 but I wouldn't know where to start

Good point on the injectors being cold...I guess when you think about it, so little is being put into the injector from the lines that it wouldn't really be able to hold its heat in. However, opinions are mixed. I don't know if I will do it, but it's a thought. My car seems to warm up relatively quickly, but it would still be nice to have better combustion for those first 5-10 minutes!

Too bad Webasto heaters cost so much!

__________________
Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k

Oh, also, the total draw is 100 watts, and I think 7-8 amps.

OldSinner, where did you get yours? Or did you make your own?

__________________
Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k

Twenty watts per injector line is not going to do much very fast. Insulation is required for it to do anything at all really. Well insulated it is still going to take considerable time in my opinion to heat the lines.

On the otherhand a poster states it seems to reduce initial nailing. So it must be of some benifit. I wonder how long the poster lets his lines warm before he starts the car.

For hard starting cars the use of synthetic oil helps a lot it seems. Also if replacement of the normal starter with a geared aftermarket type was done it may help substantially. People that have purchased them report much faster cranking speeds as a result.

Yeah, I was just hoping to help the intial warm up time be a little more efficient, but I suppose there is no way to really determine how bad it actually is..

I'm using 5w40 Rotella synth and haven't had any problems starting; always catches on the first crank. I think I have one bad glow plug, but I am going to swap out the four that I missed this weekend once I get that darn intake off (got some Craftsman bolt-outs and PB blaster ready!)
I actually just got a rebuilt starter today, because I thought mine was going bad, but after reading some, I think it was just a bad ignition connection that doesn't like the very cold days..I'm not sure if this rebuilt has the gear you speak of, but I doubt it. I'm debating whether to keep it for when the time comes or try to sell it. I jumped the gun on this one and could've saved myself some money

__________________
Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k