Must you ream out before installing new glow plugs?
 

I need some new glow plugs, the car is 17 years old, and just guessing they're the originals. It doesn't get that cold here in GA, but now the glow plug warning light comes on.

When I take out the old ones, do I have to ream the socket area out before installing new ones? I don't have the reamer tool if needed. What other tools do I need? I recently got rid of my 100 piece socket set, and only have a crummy 15 piece set.

Also, any substitute for anti-seize that I might have around the house, like a lithium spray? I hate buying new chemicals that I only need a touch of, next thing you know, I have 200 cans and jars of stuff sucking up space in my garage.

Thanks,

Jeff 1991 300d, 128k

You don't HAVE to, but it makes sense to do it then since it allows your plugs to work at their full potential.

You can buy very small containers of anti-seize.

I reamed mine when I replaced them earlier this year. I figured it couldn't hurt.

I reamed mine with a drill bit. There was a lot of carbon in mine. I couldn't even get a 1/4" drill bit in there at first.

If you have a 617, no. If you have one of the engines more prone to stuck plugs, I would!

Say you had an engine that was prone to stuck plugs, with about 50k miles on it. Would you pull all the plugs and put some anti-cease on them?

-Jason

I recommend getting some ratchet wrenches and a telescoping magnet to catch the nuts off the glow plugs. Also, if by "crummy" you mean poor quality, I'd get some good wrenches and maybe a set of thin wrenches too.

The glow plug light is supposed to come on.

It's when it does NOT come on you have a problem with probably two or more plugs.

I would
 

I didn't know about the reaming procedure the first time I changed mine (about 2 years ago). Pulling them then was easy. When I did mine again about a month ago they were hard to get out and the third refused to go back in. That is when I got on here and did some searching. I used a couple of drill bits to ream out what I could and used the shop vac to get out the carbon. I have since ordered the reamer from Diesel911 (a member on this forum). I haven't used the tool yet, but it seems of high quality. By not getting rid of the carbon build up, you shorten the life of the plugs. BTW, you can get a packet of anti-seize at any auto parts store for a little bit of nothing. Rachet end wrenches work REALLY nice on this job.

True ... I was assuming he meant the blinking glow light, since he said glow plug "warning light".

The nuts are captured on the 60x engines, so they don't fall off and you don't lose them.

I think you can borrow or rent the reamer from the forum tool sharing section.... so not doing it really would not seem a reasonable thing to do given the purpose of the glow plugs and the suggestion of the FSM and reports of people who have done it as to the stuff that came out.
DO NOT use a drill unless you are a gambler and like the thrill of making a big problem...or not getting the carbon out...
Be sure that if you do put something on the threads that it conducts electricity well... the plugs need to be well connected electrically to the block.. just like spark plugs on gas cars..

I often wondered why we are using Anti-seize grease on the glowplugs threads instead of DiElectric grease........I have thought about it everytime I have changed out glow plugs. Anti-Seize is not a conductive grease and probably reduces the conductivity of the plugs. Would DiElectric grease be better?:confused:

That is my worry also... but I understand when someone takes off a set that were not touched in 20 years they have the urge to put something on which will make the next time easier..

I went thru 3 sets.Finally I reamed.