I have all the parts to replace all the links in the rear suspension system. Is there a sequence that I should follow when replacing them? In other words, which one first, second,...etc? I probably later change the carrier bushing and spring link bushing but not just now. As I understand it, the links should be torqued with the axle level and loaded. Is this correct? Should I wait until all are replaced and then torque all at one time or do it in sequence? Thanks for your help.
Bud

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1987 300D Turbo, 175k mi., 1998 BMW 323i Convertible, 1997 F250 4x4 7.3L PSD

I didn't read anything about a sequence in the manual. Replace one link at a time then set the axle level and tighten the bolts. You'll be luckly to get any wrench let alone a torque wrench on some of the bolts while the subframe is attached to the car.

Don't probably change the carrier bushing, place your parts order now! If anything else in the rear suspension needs replacement, you can bet the carrier bushings are toast. You can do it as a separate job but you need a new carrier bushing for the full effect of changing everything else.

Don't forget new sway bar end links.

Sixto
87 300D

The carrier bushing is something like $40. If you've got it all apart, you can take the wheel carrier down to any capable shop with a press, get the new bushing pressed in, and save yourself a lot of grief later. If you're not a gambling man, a new set of wheel bearings wouldn't hurt either back there.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

on my 77 the rear sway bar links are metal not plastic like the later w123's but I cant seem to find a place that sells metal sway bar links. Anyone know a place that sells metal sway bar links?

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

Babymog, I would go ahead and change the bushing and the spring link bushing but I just had major surgery on my right shoulder and while I think I can manage all the links with one arm, I just don't want to try the bushings until I get my strength back in MY torque arm. I already have the parts and I may go ahead anyway as they need replacing as well as most rubber. Next, the subframe and differential carrier bushings. A lot of rubber on these cars. But wish me luck as I am 66yrs young and still wrenching!!
Bud

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1987 300D Turbo, 175k mi., 1998 BMW 323i Convertible, 1997 F250 4x4 7.3L PSD

The carrier bushing is easy with the special tool. The links are difficult, particularly the upper diagonal link. Very tight access to the bolts. No way to get an impact wrench on the inner bolt, not even an angle drive. Not much room for a breaker bar either. You have to do that one with your arms or drop the subframe.

Sixto
87 300D

I looked at the unit and figured there would be some difficulty with the bolt angles and lack of space. I do have the Klann type spring compressor so I just might chance it and take the carrier and the spring link to a machine shop and have them do the press work. On a side note, when I finish the rear suspension and one front lca, I am going to be selling the spring compressor. I just purchased it a few weeks ago for this job but will not need it after that. I used it on the blown up lca on the drivers side just before I had surgery. It works as advertised from Baum tools.
Bud

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1987 300D Turbo, 175k mi., 1998 BMW 323i Convertible, 1997 F250 4x4 7.3L PSD