First I want to thank this forum for all of the excellent information that has helped me many times. Now, I would be very appreciative of some advice on my next project, which is to remove and overhaul my 240D engine.
I have the Haynes manual, and plan on following it exactly for engine removal. It and the shop manual call out removing the engine and transmission together as a unit. Since I do not need to do anything with the transmission, wouldn't it be just as easy (or maybe easier) to leave the transmission (automatic) in, and separate the engine from the transmission? If I do this, can I leave in the transmission support bracket? What problems could I expect? It seems fairly straightforward but I am wondering if Haynes had a reason for removing them together.

They get removed together because trying to pull the engine without the tranny is a real pain when it's still inside the car! Separating the tranny from the engine is still a pain, but it gets a lot easier when it is out of the car just because of what and where you have to reach to get the two apart. As someone who has tried both methods, I would really recommend you pull the 2 together, make your motor swap or whatever it is your trying to do, reassemble them and put it all back in the same way it came out.

As stated in the post above, pull them together, Leave the tranny cross member on the tranny (along with the flex disc) and remove the four 13mm bolts.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

As a counterpoint, it's not that difficult to separate engine and transmission in the car. Does the same manual tell you to remove engine and transmission to service the transmission?

If you decide to leave the transmission in the car, don't forget to support the transmission with a jack since the engine provides forward support for the transmission. The downside is you can't roll the car with a loose transmission.

You have to release the torque converter from the flex plate, detatch transmission cooler lines (have to anyway to remove the engine), release the dipstick tube from the cylinder head, release the bowden cable from the throttle linkage and of course release the transmission from the engine. No need to drain ATF (but cap the cooler line fittings) or detach shift linkage and other transmission connections. Don't count on a loose transmission holding the rear wheels in Park!

Sixto
87 300D

Remember to use a bungee cord or rope to tie the torque converter in place. It can make a mess if it falls onto the ground.

+1

When I pulled the engine from my 300D i rigged a hand winch between the top of the chain on the hoist and the transmission (bell housing I think) - that way I could easily control the angle of the whole assembly to clear obstacles as I hoisted it up and out.

http://www.kalpol.com/mercedes/

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kalpol
79 280SE
82 Fiat Spider 2000
81 Fiat Brava
04 BMW R1150RT
96 Jeep Grand Cherokee

What FI said. Push the torque converter towards the transmission when all the bolts are out in case it got friendly with the flex plate over time. If you're paranoid, you can wedge a rod through a hole in the bell housing to ensure the torque converter doesn't come off with the engine. Then anchor is with the bungee while the engine's out.

In a 126 SD you can lie belly on valve cover to work on a number of bell housing bolts. Can you do the same in a 240D

Sixto
87 300D

How high a ceiling do you need to pull engine and transmission? Do you have to go higher than the grill with the hood propped straight up?

Sixto
87 300D

You can stop voting. FI will tell you this is not a democracy

Sixto
87 300D

Also known as a load leveler, which can be purchased from everyone's favorite tool store, Harbor Freight

My 616s with manual trannys dont have to be 'tipped" so drastically as the 617s+tranny but I use the adjustable spreader bar, with the air wrench to turn the screw. It was only about $30 from HF.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

A load leveler is the only way to go. But cut off that stupid little crank, weld on a nut and use your 1/2 in wratchet, much easier. I used one of those long nuts, about a 3/4 or 7/8 don`t remember.

I pulled my engine, but a 300d not a 240D, and I pulled eng and trans together. much eiser for me to separate the eng and trans once on the ground.

Also seems like it would be a PITA to try to align the two back up with the trans left in the car.

If the weather holds out, I have to go back through this again this week.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Well I for one have learned something new today.

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kalpol
79 280SE
82 Fiat Spider 2000
81 Fiat Brava
04 BMW R1150RT
96 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I pulled the engine out of a 240D this fall to put in a replacement I built up. I left the transmission in. The only difficulty I had was aligning them up for installation. I had not used a clutch alignment tool, so I made one up with a couple of dowel rods and a drill press. I had no problem the next time.

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Wow! I'm overwhelmed by all of the great help. I think I will stick with removing the engine and transmission together, even though there has been success doing it both ways.
Thanks