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-   -   1986 300 SDL master key question -- one key to rule all others? (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=241515)

Kevin Johnson 01-01-2009 09:58 AM

1986 300 SDL master key question -- one key to rule all others?
 
I have the owners manual and have read the bit about locking the trunk by turning the key 90 degrees to the right and removing it so that the valet key cannot open it. [I recently purchased the valet key from the dealer.]

I am not able to make the trunk lock cylinder turn this far. Glovebox locking in the same manner is no problem.

Question: Is the master key with the red dot a different key than the normal keys that will operate the ign, trunk, door, glovebox?

It seems that would make four:

flat normal key (for wallet)
plastic grip normal key
plastic grip valet key
plastic grip "red dot" master key

Anybody?

Thanks!

Hatterasguy 01-01-2009 10:33 AM

The red dot are the old keys, it was MB's way in the 80's of showing off the car had an alarm. The new ones don't have it.

Your lock is probably stuck, since hardly anyone ever uses that feature. Try some graphite powder in the lock.

Kevin Johnson 01-01-2009 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy (Post 2064609)
The red dot are the old keys, it was MB's way in the 80's of showing off the car had an alarm. The new ones don't have it.

Your lock is probably stuck, since hardly anyone ever uses that feature. Try some graphite powder in the lock.

Thanks, I will try that. I hate forcing things.

vstech 01-01-2009 12:51 PM

I would spray some pb blaster in there, let it soak for a day then spray brake cleaner in really well. get all traces of gunk out. then blow it out really dry with air, or co2 spray. gotta get all junk out, try the key then, if it's smooth, great, if not repeat above. once it's totally smooth, if you feel in necessary, put in some graphite powder to prevent future problems with wear.

Cr from Texas 01-01-2009 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy (Post 2064609)
Your lock is probably stuck, since hardly anyone ever uses that feature. Try some graphite powder in the lock.

FWIW, my locksmith says not to use graphite. Use WD40.

Hatterasguy 01-01-2009 01:14 PM

Liquid's will attract dirt.

toomany MBZ 01-01-2009 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas (Post 2064756)
FWIW, my locksmith says not to use graphite. Use WD40.

Mine too.

dieseldiehard 01-01-2009 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ (Post 2064795)
Mine too.

my brother, a locksmith uses the saying "graphite is a locksmiths best friend" meaning it generates lots of business.
I learned that the hard way when I squirted Graphite in a new SAAB and a year later the lock jammed up. It gets into the pins and dries out and they stick.
I suggest WD40 or better yet, Tri-Flow spray on locks.

compu_85 01-01-2009 03:00 PM

The 90* turn works well on my SDL: It locks the truck shut with a deadbolt. The central locking still works the standard latch I believe, but the bolt holds the trunk shut.

-Jason

Carson357 01-01-2009 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin Johnson (Post 2064583)
I have the owners manual and have read the bit about locking the trunk by turning the key 90 degrees to the right and removing it so that the valet key cannot open it. [I recently purchased the valet key from the dealer.]

I am not able to make the trunk lock cylinder turn this far. Glovebox locking in the same manner is no problem.

Question: Is the master key with the red dot a different key than the normal keys that will operate the ign, trunk, door, glovebox?

It seems that would make four:

flat normal key (for wallet)
plastic grip normal key
plastic grip valet key
plastic grip "red dot" master key

Anybody?

Thanks!


last time i tried to get a valet key the dealr said they are no longer available, i have one for my 1986 SDL, the valet key will not actually even turn the trunk lock and will not even enter the glove box key hole, the valet key is distinguished by an oval head

Gene Horr 01-01-2009 03:34 PM

Any locksmith who recommends WD-40 is REALLY just looking for future business. This is the worst possible substance you can use on a moving part. It is designed so that the lubricating portion will offgas in a month or two leaving behind a gummy tar like substance. Fine for when you are wanting to waterproof something but horrible for moving parts.

At this point then people spray in more WD-40. The volatiles will temporarily dissove the tar, allowing the part to move. But when they evaporate you now have twice as much gum. After a year or two the lock is useless.

The best substance is plain light grade oil. But it will run over everything so keep napkins handy. Graphite is good for certain installations. It won't "dry out" (it is a powder, not a liquid) but does not have the rust prevention of oil.

There are plenty of locksmiths who don't know their rear end from a hole in the ground as you can see from reading the above posts.

babymog 01-01-2009 03:56 PM

The best product I've found for lock lubrication is a good spray oil like Mr. Moly spray grease with a MoS2 in tenacious oil.

The easiest available decent-quality spray oil is IMO 1-Lube from the people I otherwise despise: the Slick-50 guys (ironic, isn't it). 1-Lube is a good tenacious oil in a spray can, might have some Teflone/PTFE in it (don't remember), and unlike WD-40 (AKA: starting fluid) the oil sticks around. I use it in my shop on production parts, available at Menard's and other places.

True IMO that graphite has the ability to get into locks, impact the void behind the tumblers, and make the lock inoperable.

Hatterasguy 01-01-2009 04:42 PM

I don't own a can of WD40, I still can't find something its good for. Well other than attracting fish.

Kevin Johnson 01-01-2009 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85 (Post 2064833)
The 90* turn works well on my SDL: It locks the truck shut with a deadbolt. The central locking still works the standard latch I believe, but the bolt holds the trunk shut.

-Jason

All fixed -- it was the sliding bolt to the left of the latch. I lubricated it and the part on the lid that it passes through. Thanks everyone for the info!

Kevin Johnson 01-01-2009 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog (Post 2064873)
The best product I've found for lock lubrication is a good spray oil like Mr. Moly spray grease with a MoS2 in tenacious oil.

The easiest available decent-quality spray oil is IMO 1-Lube from the people I otherwise despise: the Slick-50 guys (ironic, isn't it). 1-Lube is a good tenacious oil in a spray can, might have some Teflone/PTFE in it (don't remember), and unlike WD-40 (AKA: starting fluid) the oil sticks around. I use it in my shop on production parts, available at Menard's and other places.

True IMO that graphite has the ability to get into locks, impact the void behind the tumblers, and make the lock inoperable.

I was using 350cs silicone oil with a fugitive carrier.


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