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1992 300sd need advice
i bought a 1992 300sd a while ago for a cheap price never did anything with it has been sitting ever since.
runs and drives doesn't seem to burn oil and doesn't hardly smoke. the body is very clean so is the interior in nearly mint condition. everything pretty much seems to work good the power assist doors, all windows, sunroof, even the ac. the car has 330,000 miles on the clock dont have any history of it what so ever i paid $1200 for it. i do know it spent most of its life in arizona and is not in new york. its got no rust anywhere on the car when i first start it up and drive it it drives great a lot of power, but once it warms up it loses all its power and can barely get to 50mph. i did change both gas filters got some power back but still not like it should be. the transmission shifts very smooth. its a shame because the body is so clean i dont no what to do with the thing i dont really need it but wouldnt mind having it if i can fix it for cheap but i no these car aren't cheap. someone told me it might be the injection pump. it also needs a few odds and ends like breaks and rotors also the engine wire harness seems to be in bad shape. what do you guys suggest im not to familiar with this car. i did do alot of reading here regarding the rod bending issues. how much do u think i can sell it for and make a decent profit? or i was thinking of selling it for parts and maybe make more money. i just dont no if i want to deal with the headache. let me know what u think it can be and what should i do with the thing. i will like to keep it if i can get its power back and also there is a pretty loud knocking sound. it sounds like two hammers hitting eachother. its get quiter when it warms up but still not normal i think its coming from the injection pump but not sure thanks in advance |
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Sell it to me. $1200 works Seriously, let me know if you decide to sell as long as the paint isn't black, red or green and the interior isn't black, red or palomino.
That engine has computer controlled boost. For some reason the ECU thinks something's amiss and responds by cutting boost. You can try to figure it out starting with the EGR system. People with limited money and less patience replace the vacuum actuated wastegate with a boost actuated wastegate to cut the ECU out of the loop. As an experiment, find one of the vacuum lines that runs from the splitter by the upper radiator hose to the right headlight. Separate that line from the fitting. Now, find the turbo wastegate actuator and disconnect the vacuum line attached to it. Plug the vacuum line with a golf tee. Run a hose directly between the fitting by the upper radiator hose and the wastegate actuator. Go for an easy drive. I can't overemphasize easy because the engine has no way of protecting itself from too much turbo pressure. There's no risk of damaging the engine if you don't keep the pedal to the floor. In fact in normal driving you'd have little reason to press the pedal to the floor even momentarily. I strongly suspect the performance you have when the engine's cold will continue when the engine's at operating temperature. Put things back the way they were then do a search on coverting the wastegate actuator. The sound you hear is called nailing. Usually means something's not right with an injector. You can try a Lubro Moly Diesel Purge treatment (http://www.dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm). If that doesn't help, have the injectors cleaned and pop tested. Wouldn't hurt to check cam and IP timing. Sixto 87 300D |
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