more freeze plug removal questions
 

I have been searching...

I am taking my 85 300TD to my mechanics tonight to have an OEM block heater installed. He will have to remove the freeze plug. I know he is a good diesel mechanic, but he does not regularly work on Benz`s and probably hasn`t done this job before. I would like some suggestions I could give him to make it easier. I have a goofy aftermaket air intake (don`t ask) so he will be able to get at the plug from above, I think.

So far I will suggest..

Drain the coolant
Heat the plug, but not too hot as to crack the block
use a big honkin 3,4 inch wrench with a breaker bar

whats the wrench size

Anything else!

Thanks

I was going to say to just pound it in with a cold chisel but this must be different than a small block Chevy... :) How about an impact wrench?

print this out and bring it in.

thread

He's not removing a freeze plug, but unscrewing a threaded plug. If the mechanic thinks he's taking out a freeze plug he is in for an unpleasant surprise.
For what it's worth, in my opinion, you're better off just putting in a lower radiator hose heater.
No impacts on cast iron unless you are totally prepared to deal with a cracked block.

I believe there is the threaded plug near the starter for the block heater, I wouldn't go knocking out any freeze plugs:eek:

Thanks for the correction.

I am not sure what to call it, but I want to have an OEM block heater installed.

Thanks

Ok.. since it may have been in there 24 years without ever seeing the light of day..
one way to go at it is to clean the area really well by hand with a brass brush from Harbor freight... along the area of the threads...
then take a top from some paint can or something which is metal... and cut it flat on one side...
clean the area with soap and water and let dry... then use Red RTV to attach the metal can lid to the block over it with the open part up.
Then put an ounce of something like PBblaster ... and leave as long as possible.. days if you can wait...
then take it off and try regular implements with cheater bars on them to get it loose...
slow gradual pressure is better than impact.... screw jacks, or porta power can help...
Patience is the key on lots of old car stuff...

Another old trick is heat and candle wax on the threads.

There is a type of wax I'm gonna find out about used on antique vehicles that have been found buried or in rivers. A guy working on a Russian WW2 T-34 tank sunk in the mud for 60 years is using this spwecial, but commerically available hot wax lubricant instead of PB Blaster. When I talk to him, I'll be glad to share.

s

I doubt any threads are " showing" to where candle wax can be dropped on them...
I think something very thin with the help of hydraulic pressure is needed on this age horizontal stuff...

Kroil from Kano Industries supposedly will penetrate a 1 millionth of a inch wide crack. I don't know about that but I use it regularly with good success on stuck parts.

Kroil was made famous by the guy (pun) that wrote ' The Machinist's Bedside Reader' ....
I do believe it is better than most any other product... but have not found it at any regular place... as far as I know it must be mailordered.. (?)