How hard is it to replace the orings on this tube/line? (On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being fuel filter replacement, 5 being a glow plug system diagnosis/repair, 10 being a timing chain replacement)

I've got a small oil spill in my driveway and suspect that this oil return line is the culprit. Been battling it for about a year now...First I reconnected it at the air canister (fixed), then when replacing the air canister bracket it came loose at the oil pan(?) (asked a mechanic with lift to reconnect (no charge)).

I think that the orings should be replaced and hopefully that'll be the end of it. Am I right? Anything else to consider? repair while I'm down there?

I did the searches and only found reasons to believe that this is line is the culprit. Is there a DIY article out there? Can a hack like me actually fix this thing...I have limited space and ability to do involved repairs due to big city life etc. The fact that I lost my job due to economic downturn isn't helping...so I'm trying to save some money as well....

Thanks in advance.

__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

3



Requires you to get under the turbo to undo a bracket, but yours is likely broken (all that ive seen are) at the bracket and just sits there freely, making the job a 1-2.

__________________
1981 300SD 512k OM603

Probably is broken since the tube is has some play...doesn't seem like its connected to anything except at the top (air canister) and bottom (pan). Is this bracket something that should be fixed as well? I suspect that it'll keep the line from coming off in the future...

__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

Not too hard to do, but assuming it is like my 84 300CD you'll have to remove the turbo to get it out...

__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Not for the oil separator drain line.

thanks, there'd be no way I'd remove the turbo for this fix. That'd have to be done by a pro. I'm trying to guage the difficulty prior to taking things apart. Can I fix the line without removing it from the car or does it need to completely come out? tricks, parts needed, words of caution, etc are appreciated.

__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

If that bracket is in place I would rate it a 6+. It's a pain in the rear!

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Remove the air filter housing.
There should be a clamp securing the oil drain line to the turbo support bracket. It's a lot easier to feel than see. Remove the clamp from the bracket if it is still attached. (The bolt has a habit of coming loose and falling off, so don't be shocked if it isn' there at all.)
With the clamp loose, the drain kine should lift off the nipple on the oil pan, exposing the o-ring.
There o-rings are the same size at both ends of the drain line. (They are also the same size as the oil dipstick seal.)