The 78 seems to surge before shifting into 2nd every once in a while.
Just a few times so far but enough to notice that it's happening.

What does this mean, how long until the tranny does this a lot, and
where should I take this to get it fixed.

I checked tranny fluid and COLD it's about 5 mm above the top range
of the dipstick. It usually shows nothing at temp and idleing.
I added some a while ago, months and then didn't drive it.

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Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

It's called flaring. Do a search on it and you will find lots of threads on it. The basic answer is that you need less vacuum to the modulator.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

By "COLD" do you mean pulling the dipstick out at some random time after the car has been sitting around for who knows how long maybe before you get in it to go somewhere?

Automatic transmission fluid is always checked either "cold" or preferably "hot" with the engine RUNNING and usually after cycling through all the gears and then waiting a minute or two, pulling the dipstick, wiping it clean, Then reinserting , Then withdrawing it and Then taking a reading quickly to get an accurate idea of the level.

When you pull the dipstick on a cold auto trans that has been sitting the level of the fluid should be way above any marks on the dipstick.

If there is no fluid on the dipstick when warm and running then the fluid level is way low.

Yes, cold engine. Sitting overnight, pop the hood, check the oil and tranny fluid.
I do this too. I even have a piece of leather to wipe the dip with.

HOW FAR above the top mark is correct?
Last time I tried to fill it up after checking while warm, a good portion of fluid came back up out the dipstick pipe.

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Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

Sorry my point was that you do not check the trans. fluid cold the way you describe and the fluid level on the dipstick when checked cold with the engine not running means absolutely nothing so you need to just put the whole idea of checking your trans fluid the same way you check your oil out of your mind entirely. I only gave you that piece of info about the fluid level on the dipstick when cold as a way of getting a very rough idea of whether or not there is a decent amt. of fluid in there to begin with.

Now when the car is warmed up and idling and you cycle through the gears with your foot on the brake and end up back in park and then get out and wait a minute or two and then check the fluid as I outlined before, if it is low you add fluid through the dipstick tube.

Often you cannot just recheck the fluid level at this point accurately because the fluid is all over the inside of the dipstick tube and will make it hard to tell if the fluid you are looking at on the end of the dipstick is from the trans pan or picked up from the wall of the tube as it was put in or pulled out so sometimes you just have to wait 15 minutes or so and then go back and do the process over again with a (relatively) dry dipstick tube.

alright, thanks for the info.

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Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

No problem,

Checking auto trans fluid properly/accurately is not an easy job especially if the level has gotten out of spec. The most fun is when you over do it and end up having to siphon fluid out of the dipstick tube.

I have had more than one that was acting up only because of incorrrect fluid level. Too much is almost as bad as too little.

Be thankful that we have torque converter and pan drains in our MB's.

I'm thankful she's running good again!! New Bosch glows.
The tranny thing happens when it's cold and so far
not when it's warm.

__________________
Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

I am not an auto trans expert (few are) but when it is cold it is normal, to a degree, (pun) for an auto trans to shift a little harder. I do not believe you have a modulator on that trans if it is original. The shifts are controlled by linkages so it is possible some slop has developed over time. This is often hard to deal with when it is wear related because it can be hard to eliminate without actually replacing the linkages with new.

Ginny-

You need to get a handle on the fluid level quickly before you cause damage to your transmission. As stated above, check the level when the fluid is hot and the car is running , tranny in park. Sounds like you are low and could be damaging the friction surfaces...

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

My 79SD has a modulator. I'm under the impression that all turbo versions had the modulator. Perhaps I am wrong. Checking the fluid correctly is a good first step but vacuum problems to the modulator are typical on these cars.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13