Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-21-2009, 10:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 29
valve adjustment

how hard is it too adjust valves on an 85 300d
i drive a vw beetle too so i am used to adjusting valves
how do you adjust valves in a mercedes
also what is a diesel purge?

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-21-2009, 10:35 PM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vancouver WA
Posts: 6,528
It's not hard at all. Check the DIY links under "resources"at the top of th page, and a search of this form.
__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-22-2009, 08:13 AM
dannym's Avatar
I'm not here
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 2,360
There's nothing in the DIY section on valve adjustment.

The valve adjustment is probably the easiest thing to do but it needs some preperation.
Take pictures of the valve cover & linkeages before taking them apart. They will come in handy later.
Get yourself a new valve cover gasket.
Get 2 14mm wrench's. You can use regular wwrench's but the bent ones are easier. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=180280&highlight=valve+adjustment
Get feeler gauges. The gap should be on a sticker under the hood or check the Haynes manual.
Put numbers 1 - 5 on a sheet of paper with I & E for each one.
Crank the engine around clockwise with a 27mm wrench ON THE CRANK BOLT. Some people use the power steering bolt. Don't do that if you ever expect to get it off again.
You do not have to do them in order. Do the ones that come around pointing up as you crank around.

You adjust them by loosening the top locking not and adjusting the bottom nut to loosen or tighten the valve. Adjust to where you have resistence without clamping on the feeler gauge. Tighten locking nut & check gap. Repeat as necessary.

Diesel Purge is using a product like Lubro Moly or Seafoam to clean the head.
You put the fuel intake into the product and burn it as you would diesel fuel. Don't forget to put the fuel return line into the solution too.

Danny
__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-22-2009, 09:02 AM
83 300SD
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Shawano, WI
Posts: 692
Check out www.dieselgiant.com.

John
__________________
Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-22-2009, 09:16 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,186
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym View Post
There's nothing in the DIY section on valve adjustment.................
Oh Contrare......http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=107729;)
__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-22-2009, 09:27 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,843
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym View Post
There's nothing in the DIY section on valve adjustment.

The valve adjustment is probably the easiest thing to do but it needs some preperation.
Take pictures of the valve cover & linkeages before taking them apart. They will come in handy later.
Get yourself a new valve cover gasket.
Get 2 14mm wrench's. You can use regular wwrench's but the bent ones are easier. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=180280&highlight=valve+adjustment
Get feeler gauges. The gap should be on a sticker under the hood or check the Haynes manual.
Put numbers 1 - 5 on a sheet of paper with I & E for each one.
Crank the engine around clockwise with a 27mm wrench ON THE CRANK BOLT. Some people use the power steering bolt. Don't do that if you ever expect to get it off again.
You do not have to do them in order. Do the ones that come around pointing up as you crank around.

You adjust them by loosening the top locking not and adjusting the bottom nut to loosen or tighten the valve. Adjust to where you have resistence without clamping on the feeler gauge. Tighten locking nut & check gap. Repeat as necessary.

Diesel Purge is using a product like Lubro Moly or Seafoam to clean the head.
You put the fuel intake into the product and burn it as you would diesel fuel. Don't forget to put the fuel return line into the solution too.

Danny
Nice description, but actually the bottom nut is the locking nut, and the top is the adjustment... same effect, just not technically correct.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-22-2009, 11:15 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 93
I used something like this instead of trying to crank it around manually or with the key:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XQUKW

Worked really well. Got it at PepBoys for about $15.
__________________
1984 300D Light Blue/Blue
2006 C280 Silver/Black
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-22-2009, 01:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,673
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSlater View Post
I used something like this instead of trying to crank it around manually or with the key:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XQUKW

Worked really well. Got it at PepBoys for about $15.
That`s great to use, but better wire the linkage so the engine doesn`t start.

I usually just use a wrench to turn the engine. so one time I decided to bump it over using the terminal on the R/F fender using needle nose.

Suddenly the engine comes to life . OH &%@% how do I get this thing shut off ???? panic sets in, oil is squirting and running down the head. .

So pull up on the linkage at the IP, kill engine, grab rags to soak up the oil.

OOOOK, won`t be doing that dumb move again.

Now Iam back to using a wrench to turn the engine. still gun shy about it starting though. I suppose there could be a possibility of the engine starting if it is warm, and good compression turning it by hand.



So bottom line, tie the linkage so it won`t start.

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-22-2009, 01:54 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
Rotate the engine by hand, much safer and much more precise.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-22-2009, 05:14 PM
RML RML is offline
Out of Garage Space
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southwest PA
Posts: 1,034
Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Rotate the engine by hand, much safer and much more precise.
I agree. No need to make things more complicated than they need to be.
__________________
85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-22-2009, 08:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 93


Well, wheeeere were you guys in the thread I got the idea from?! LOL!
__________________
1984 300D Light Blue/Blue
2006 C280 Silver/Black
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-22-2009, 08:27 PM
turbobenz's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Cameron Park CA
Posts: 1,874
Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
That`s great to use, but better wire the linkage so the engine doesn`t start.

I usually just use a wrench to turn the engine. so one time I decided to bump it over using the terminal on the R/F fender using needle nose.

Suddenly the engine comes to life . OH &%@% how do I get this thing shut off ???? panic sets in, oil is squirting and running down the head. .

So pull up on the linkage at the IP, kill engine, grab rags to soak up the oil.

OOOOK, won`t be doing that dumb move again.

Now Iam back to using a wrench to turn the engine. still gun shy about it starting though. I suppose there could be a possibility of the engine starting if it is warm, and good compression turning it by hand.



So bottom line, tie the linkage so it won`t start.

Charlie
Charlie, I know you have a rebuilt and that's why it started. My 120k engine did this too with only a slight tap on the starter! Luckily, it shut itself off because of the vacuum on the shut off valve. I usually just put a large wrench on the PS pulley and that works fine if your belts nice and tight
__________________
1981 300SD 512k OM603


Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-22-2009, 11:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 29
does the engine have to be stone cold
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-23-2009, 01:20 AM
bgkast's Avatar
Rollin' on 16s
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Vancouver WA
Posts: 6,528
Yes, if you want to use the cold gap specs.

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page