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  #1  
Old 01-30-2009, 01:03 PM
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Smile 84 300d lower ball joint replacement

Hi fellas, I'm new to the post.
Got a 84 300d 251K miles with really worn lower ball joint.It's a daily work driver.Most dependable and easiest car to work on I've had.Best vehicle investment I've ever made at $875.
Have a day off work and the weekend so want to replace the joint.
Any tips/tricks to speed up the job would be most appreciated.
Want to say thanks also to the northerners for sending down this cold front to s. FL. LOL.

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  #2  
Old 01-30-2009, 01:14 PM
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That's not an easy task. You'll need a supporting jack to take the load off the LCA and, once the spindle is removed, the joint needs to be hammered out and the new one must be pressed in. You'll need a special press tool for that job or find a local shop or dealer who will press it for you.

The tools required are in the tool rental program and can be rented at reasonable cost.

Last edited by Brian Carlton; 01-30-2009 at 01:26 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2009, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
You'll need a spring compressor to take the load off the LCA ...
Respectfully disagree. So does the FSM. Support the LCA with a jackstand; no spring compressor needed.
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2009, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Respectfully disagree. So does the FSM. Support the LCA with a jackstand; no spring compressor needed.
Are you leaving the LCA in the vehicle and removing the spindle from the LCA?
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2009, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Are you leaving the LCA in the vehicle and removing the spindle from the LCA?
That's what I would recommend. (Separating the spindle from the LCA is an essential element of the ball joint replacement exercise.)
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2009, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
That's what I would recommend. (Separating the spindle from the LCA is an essential element of the ball joint replacement exercise.)
Agreed........I was thinking of the complete LCA removal.

I'll amend the original post.

Thanks.
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2009, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Respectfully disagree. So does the FSM. Support the LCA with a jackstand; no spring compressor needed.
Interesting. What are tools needed and procedure to press the ball joint out? And reinstall? While the LCA is still attached to the car.

I've done it where I remove the LCA (with a spring compressor of course) and whacked the joint out. Then use a press to press it back in.
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  #8  
Old 01-30-2009, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Interesting. What are tools needed and procedure to press the ball joint out? And reinstall? While the LCA is still attached to the car.

I've done it where I remove the LCA (with a spring compressor of course) and whacked the joint out. Then use a press to press it back in.
On a W123, the body of the ball joint is pressed into the steering knuckle, not the control arm.
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  #9  
Old 01-30-2009, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
On a W123, the body of the ball joint is pressed into the steering knuckle, not the control arm.
Oh Yes, Silly me I forgot. Thank you for the correction.
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  #10  
Old 01-30-2009, 02:55 PM
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After the knuckle is removed- (careful to not ruin the Upper balljoint boot, if your not doing UCA's) I clamped the thing in a bench vise and beat it out w/ a 10 lb sledge. broke the vise, but I got it out. other side I burned the center of the balljoint out w/ a torch, hit it a few times and done.

pressing it in can be done with the autozone rental ball joint press, or the Harbor freight unit.

for detailed instructions and pics, search up old post' on front end rebuilds and balljoint removal using the search icon on the top RH side of screen. also WIKI DIY links at top of page.
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  #11  
Old 01-30-2009, 05:22 PM
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or you can make a ball joint press...he he he

Not pretty, I know, but it worked. Made w/scrap metal, a lathe, a welder, a nut, and a bolt. Used a metal plate in front of the screw, and spacers and washers where necessary. Screw the rental! Like mobetta said, you need a torch to get the old ones out though.

Has anyone heard of a greaseable ball joint for Mercedes W123's? All the ones I found were permanently sealed.
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  #12  
Old 01-30-2009, 06:36 PM
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I love it when peeps make their own tools..........................
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  #13  
Old 01-30-2009, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exhebetche View Post
Not pretty, I know, but it worked. Made w/scrap metal, a lathe, a welder, a nut, and a bolt. Used a metal plate in front of the screw, and spacers and washers where necessary. Screw the rental! Like mobetta said, you need a torch to get the old ones out though.

Has anyone heard of a greaseable ball joint for Mercedes W123's? All the ones I found were permanently sealed.

Excellent! Patent Pending.
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  #14  
Old 10-05-2009, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exhebetche View Post

Has anyone heard of a greaseable ball joint for Mercedes W123's? All the ones I found were permanently sealed.
I will be doing the lower ball joint soon. Has anyone tried drilling a hole at the bottom and installing a grease nipple? I will try it on the old ball joint and see if it's feasible.
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  #15  
Old 10-05-2009, 05:16 PM
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I took my knuckle to a machine shop with the biggest vice that I have ever seen and after an hour with a sledge, the lower ball joint hadn't even moved. A cutting torch removed two of them in 5 minutes.

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