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#1
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84 300d lower ball joint replacement
Hi fellas, I'm new to the post.
Got a 84 300d 251K miles with really worn lower ball joint.It's a daily work driver.Most dependable and easiest car to work on I've had.Best vehicle investment I've ever made at $875. Have a day off work and the weekend so want to replace the joint. Any tips/tricks to speed up the job would be most appreciated. Want to say thanks also to the northerners for sending down this cold front to s. FL. LOL. |
#2
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That's not an easy task. You'll need a supporting jack to take the load off the LCA and, once the spindle is removed, the joint needs to be hammered out and the new one must be pressed in. You'll need a special press tool for that job or find a local shop or dealer who will press it for you.
The tools required are in the tool rental program and can be rented at reasonable cost. Last edited by Brian Carlton; 01-30-2009 at 01:26 PM. |
#3
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Respectfully disagree. So does the FSM. Support the LCA with a jackstand; no spring compressor needed.
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#4
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Are you leaving the LCA in the vehicle and removing the spindle from the LCA?
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#5
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That's what I would recommend. (Separating the spindle from the LCA is an essential element of the ball joint replacement exercise.)
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#6
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Quote:
I'll amend the original post. Thanks. |
#7
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Quote:
I've done it where I remove the LCA (with a spring compressor of course) and whacked the joint out. Then use a press to press it back in.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Oh Yes, Silly me I forgot. Thank you for the correction.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
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After the knuckle is removed- (careful to not ruin the Upper balljoint boot, if your not doing UCA's) I clamped the thing in a bench vise and beat it out w/ a 10 lb sledge. broke the vise, but I got it out. other side I burned the center of the balljoint out w/ a torch, hit it a few times and done.
pressing it in can be done with the autozone rental ball joint press, or the Harbor freight unit. for detailed instructions and pics, search up old post' on front end rebuilds and balljoint removal using the search icon on the top RH side of screen. also WIKI DIY links at top of page.
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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
#11
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or you can make a ball joint press...he he he
Not pretty, I know, but it worked. Made w/scrap metal, a lathe, a welder, a nut, and a bolt. Used a metal plate in front of the screw, and spacers and washers where necessary. Screw the rental! Like mobetta said, you need a torch to get the old ones out though.
Has anyone heard of a greaseable ball joint for Mercedes W123's? All the ones I found were permanently sealed. |
#12
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I love it when peeps make their own tools..........................
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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
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Quote:
Excellent! Patent Pending.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#14
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I will be doing the lower ball joint soon. Has anyone tried drilling a hole at the bottom and installing a grease nipple? I will try it on the old ball joint and see if it's feasible.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#15
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I took my knuckle to a machine shop with the biggest vice that I have ever seen and after an hour with a sledge, the lower ball joint hadn't even moved. A cutting torch removed two of them in 5 minutes.
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Ron Schroeder '85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO '83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980: '83 Mercedes 240D '80 Audi 4000D '83 ISUZU Pup '70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel '76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel '86 Golf Several diesel generators All with 2 tank WVO conversion LI NY |
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