Door won't open all the way
 

'85 300D: Rear ds door opens about 1/2 way and won't go any further. Hinges seem fine. I don't know if this calls for door removal or if this is something that can be accessed by removing the interior panel. I did a search prior to posting, but didn't get anywhere. Anyone?

Thanks,
Mark

Door check?

Door check strap. It can be accessed by removing the interior panel. I didn't even completely remove mine when it failed BECAUSE the typical failure mode is not 'wont open' but WONT CLOSE which is way more problematical when your away from home at the side of the road with an open door. So, fix it soon.

Thanks for your help. Didn't know what that thing was called. If I did a search for "door check", probably would have found my answer.

Is there anything I need to know about removing the interior door panel so that I don't break anything?

Thanks,
Mark

I haven't removed a 123 door skin for awhile and am concerned that I may be thinking of my 124 . . . but in general, the door skins are held on by plastic hooks so you lift up rather than pull out.

The chrome trim at the latch mechanism (2 Phillips screws), door lock pull knob, inside door handle (similar to old VW bug), possibly ashtray, all have to come off first.

The w123 door panel has about 6 buttons that snapp into holes. You will have to gently pull around the edge to unsnapp it. then lift up.

It sits in kind of a groove along the top edge of the door along the window.

Then follow what JERREMY said. maybe the w124 has hooks that sit into slots so it has to be lifted up. I know the w126 does.

there are 3 10mm bolts to remove that hold the check strap in. you will see the metal strap sticking out of the door to the body. there is a pin that hold the strap, remove the "C" clip, then tap the pin out.

I replaced two of them, both back doors. tried to grease them up, but didn`t work. Just replace them. I couldn`t get the door shut, luckly it was in the driveway at home.

Charlie

OK, good, Charlie, thanks for refreshing my memory. That's right, there are snap-like plastic things that hold the edges of the door skin to the door. If you have plastic wedges sold for the purpose, that's best. Otherwise, use a putty knife, wider is better. Insert it in between the door skin and the door and slide it along until you run into one of the snaps. Put another putty knife in on the other side of the snap. Then gently pry until the snap comes free. Repeat for the other snaps.

With the snaps and all other things free (door latch release handle, etc.) the skin lifts up off of the window ledge. Hint: it's easier to put the skin back on the ledge if you lower the window all the way first. Hint: there's a fuzzy/rubber trim/seal piece at the top of the door skin. It may want to come loose as you take the skin off. Pat attention so you can get it back on the way it came off.

Give yourself plenty of time to do this job. It really doesn't take long but you don't want to rush thru it the first time.

Be patient and deliberate when you are removing the door panel per Jeremy and Charmalu's earlier postings so you don't damage anyhing. I suggest you lube the new door check straps with white lithium gease before you install them. And be sure to patch and re-install the plastic sheeting lining - you'll find it attached to the door.

Also, I think that the The Haynes Manual has somewhat decent guidance on R&R of the door panel...

Good luck,

By the way, the door works fine without the strap in place so you can remove the old one until the new one arrives. Once I loosened the plastic studs at the bottom of the interior door panel , I was able to reach my arm behind the panel and remove the 10mm bolts without removing the whole panel.
You do have to lift up on the panels of the front doors on a 123 because the map pocket has ears that slide into slots IIRC.

The check straps can be disabled but then there is nothing to prevent hyperextending the doors and creating a dimple in the outer door skin...one little slip makes for a bad day except for the body man.:(

Ok. That is what I needed to know. Interior panels seem to have a lot of variations from one manu. to another. I will get one of these ordered and replace it. Thanks also to Jeremy, Kerry and Bama!:beerchug:

Mark

Dieselgiant has a good tutorial on removing the door panel.
I got a door check on ebay, but I later found out new ones aren't that expensive at fastlane.

Getting the door lock rod lined up to screw on the black pull knob, sometimes can be a pain to line up. A few times I get the panel about buttoned up, and then can`t get the rod through the hole.

So I set the panel on the edge of the window opening and get the rod through enough to screw on the pull knob. Then fiddle around getting everything buttoned up. I have had the rod move over to one side, and then can`t get it back into the hole after Iam buttoned up and have to
go back removing stuff.

This the problem when you have a looong rod :D.

Lowering the window as Jeremy said, really helps. I learned this by trial and error.:rolleyes:

Charlie