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  #1  
Old 02-14-2009, 10:08 PM
Common sense prevails
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 115
Really did some good repairs today!!

Catching up on some really needed maintenance today!

Adjusted my valves for the first time I have done it. Easy to get the valve cover off...kinda a pain in the ass using just my normal 14mm wrenches. All valves way tooo tight. Major PITA getting the valve cover back on.

Then changed my monovalve...WOW, combined with changing my AC compressor, drier, and expansion valve coupled with soldering my climate control unit...............WOW...all operations of my climate control work great!!! Heat when you want it...cold when you need it...what a concept!

Topped it off by doing a diesel purge directly connected.

Still seems like I am nailing some and I am still shaking at idle in gear.

I think my motor mounts are shot. Also got under the car and I can move my driveshaft up and down about 1/2 an inch at the carrier bearing assembly. Guess the rubber is shot there also.....Oh well this and the motor mounts next project!!

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2007 Jeep Wrangler
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2009, 02:14 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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Good job. See if you can get a pair of the valve wrenches, makes it easier next time. Check on e-bay, they do come up from time to time. the sellers have them for about $100.00 . but sometimes some guy that got rid of his MB lists some to clean out his garage. there was just one wrench a few days ago that had a couple day left, listed or $4.00.
I got a set along with 3 other MB wreches for $50.00.

That last valve @ the firewall for me is a PITA. tight in there.

I agree, replacing the valve cover is another pita. I thought it was just me. damn gasket falls off, catches on something. finally try it w/o the gasket, and it drops right on. try again with the gasket, and fight it, and suddenly it drip on. one of those mysteries .

The center support bearing isn`t all that hard to do, just remember to mark the two halves of the Driveline before removing it. I used a gear puller to remove it, and a short piece of exhaust tubing to drive it back on.

Be sure to clean out the holes of the hex heads to get the bit to seat well in to the head. Some valve grinding compound on the bit will get it to bite into the bolt head if they give you some trouble.
I had one that was rounded off (the big one) and finally removed the whole arm, and since I was going to PNP anyway, I pick up one there. (ARM). then bolted the new arm onto it. still haven`t removed the old one yet. some day.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #3  
Old 02-15-2009, 03:58 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
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Feels good to get some projects done doesn't it! I should NEVER say this, but I don't really have any pending projects, other than an oil change due on the white wagon. That usually means something is about to break......
Keep an eye on ebay for some Hazet wrenches. Bide your time and they will show up.
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'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #4  
Old 02-15-2009, 05:04 PM
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I just got an el-cheapo wrench, put a torch to it, then bent it with a hammer. I then ground down the thickness so it would fit better. Cost like $3

Good job, that's a lot of work. You won't believe the difference in the feeling of the engine after the motor mounts.
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  #5  
Old 02-15-2009, 06:08 PM
Common sense prevails
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowriderdog37 View Post
I just got an el-cheapo wrench, put a torch to it, then bent it with a hammer. I then ground down the thickness so it would fit better. Cost like $3

Good job, that's a lot of work. You won't believe the difference in the feeling of the engine after the motor mounts.

I hope changing the motor mounts helps with Idle shake. I feel like I am in a "mobile paint shaker" when I am sitting at a stoplight.

Even sitting there and revving the engine up a little off idle does not take away all the shake. Once I take off, the engine is smooth as silk.

I have read about folks changing their rack dampner screw.....does this repair the shake? The shake is something that my wife does mention bothers her while driving it.
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  #6  
Old 02-15-2009, 06:24 PM
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lied to for years
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Elizabethton, TN
Posts: 6,249
I changed my rack damper,it helps.Strong shake is usaaly fuel restriction or air leaking in.I've found German hose clamps are the best.But new mount or mounts help.Usally the drivers side mount is weak from spilled diesel fuel from filter changes.
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  #7  
Old 02-15-2009, 06:34 PM
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When the engine mounts collapse the engine ends up sitting on the cross member, and will basically shake your teeth out of your head. The rack dampner will smooth the idle a bit, but it doesn't cause the massive shakes that engine mounts do........
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #8  
Old 02-15-2009, 07:54 PM
Common sense prevails
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
When the engine mounts collapse the engine ends up sitting on the cross member, and will basically shake your teeth out of your head. The rack dampner will smooth the idle a bit, but it doesn't cause the massive shakes that engine mounts do........

I will try the engine mounts...they do seem loose. I can grab the motor and move it around easily. Way easier that any other engine I have seen.

As far as air leaks, I will replace the hose from the metal tubing to the fuel filter and then fuel filter to IP. I have all german clamps. The fuel in the filter seems to pump through the filter very easily. At idle the filter seems full with just a very minute air bubble at the top of the filter. Revving the engine up, the fuel seems to gurgle through the filter rapidly.
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1985 Mercedes 300D
2007 Mercedes C-350
1980 Mazda Rx-7 (SA22C)
2005 Jaguar XJR
2007 Jeep Wrangler
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  #9  
Old 02-15-2009, 09:13 PM
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diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,449
I went to the dentist last week. He asked me if I had been in a fight recently. I said, No, why? He said your teeth are loose. I said, Oh, my car needs new motor mounts.

Seriously, though, are there any things that can BREAK if I continue to drive Coda with worn out motor mounts???
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  #10  
Old 02-15-2009, 09:26 PM
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Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
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Posts: 9,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
I went to the dentist last week. He asked me if I had been in a fight recently. I said, No, why? He said your teeth are loose. I said, Oh, my car needs new motor mounts.

Seriously, though, are there any things that can BREAK if I continue to drive Coda with worn out motor mounts???
The vibration can't be good for things first off. And if the mounts are collapsed then your engine is laying on something. I'm not familiar with the OM603 in a W126 but it just can't be a good thing. On OM617's it can move the oil cooler lines into the belts. Not sure of that dynamic and belt routing on your model car.
Just change your mounts daw and it will be a moot point....

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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