HELP.. Leaky trans - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Arickthered · #1 02-21-2009, 05:38 PM

Help!

I have been reading posts on the diesel discussions for some time but finally decided to join in, in desperation. I just changed the transmission fluid filter and pan gasket. My fluid was low but could not ever detect a leak. Clean as a whistle. I put 5 L of new fluid in and crawled back underneath only to find the little devil. Near the rear of the unit is a plastic probe with a cable leading up over the top of the transmission. It looks like it bolts i right at the base of the transportation pan. A rubber boot covers a coupling in the plastic. It looks like it may be cracked. Can someone help a novice, what is this?

Arickthered · #2 02-21-2009, 05:43 PM

TMAllison · #3 02-21-2009, 06:07 PM

Should be the seal of the harness to the trans. http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1999-Mercedes--benz-E300-Transmission&yearid=1999@@1999&makeid=63@@MERCEDES%2DBENZ@@63&modelid=6385%3AMBC%7C1572%3AED%7C814%3AFT%7C6@@E300&catid=241185@@Transmission&yearid=1999%40%401999&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%2DBENZ%40%4063&modelid=6385%3AMBC%7C1572%3AED%7C814%3AFT%7C6%40%40E300&catid=241185%40%40Transmission&subcatid=242913@@AT+Plug+Adapter&mode=PAI believe this is the correct part but I would want to check it to the part number below before purchasing.

Looks like this (#115, 120, 125) http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=210025&M=606%2E962&GA=722%2E608&CT=GA&cat=23V&SID=27&SGR=095&SGN=09

May just need the seal rings although the selinoid has been revised a couple of times. You ought to check the harness at the solenoid and follow it up to the TCU and check again to see if any fluid has been migrating up the cable; has been known to fry the TCU.

This assuming it is actually a 99 E300....

You know you need to use only MB trans fluid only right? No Equal......And that the fill level must be adjusted using the factory dip stick tool wiht the trans fluid at 80C? It holds between 7-8L if the torque converter is also drained.

Arickthered · #4 02-21-2009, 06:28 PM

Thanks. I'll look into the parts. I bought the dipstick and the mb transmission fluid. I used a set of directions I picked up on the forum for the fluid change out. I only managed 3L when I drained it. BUT I was really low and was experiencing some slippage.

TMAllison · #5 02-21-2009, 06:34 PM

Good. After a 20 mile drive it is reasonable to assume the trans is at operating temp (unless you live in Fairbanks) and can be checked. Fill to the upper end of the 80C fill range.

Arickthered · #6 02-21-2009, 06:42 PM

Thanks Terry,

I will order the AT solenoid/ AT linkage bushing and at plug adapter and should be back in business. Think I should drive this at all while it still leaks? I use this as a work car and put about 100-200 miles a day.

TMAllison · #7 02-21-2009, 08:02 PM

I would check the sheath of the harness. If its dry its prob Ok for the short term. If wet on either end it should be repaired ASAP as it could get very expensive.

Arickthered · #8 02-26-2009, 12:41 PM

Well,

I just received my a/t parts and they are not what is leaking. It seams all parts houses are not created equal. I think I am looking for the shift cable connector seal. It looks like my culprit. But the cable it connect to seems to be the point of contention. Anyone have any ideas. My leak seems to be increasing in volume. Or maybe I'm stressing about it.

lupin..the..3rd · #9 03-25-2009, 11:24 AM

Any update on this? Looks like I'm having the same problem. Leaking from this smallish connector at the back of the transmission. A black wire goes from this connector up to the body immediately above. I have some pics, will post them later.

lupin..the..3rd · #10 03-27-2009, 10:03 PM

Ok, I fixed my leak this evening (I hope). Turns out this leaky connector is not electrical - it's some kind of mechanical actuator. It's called a "Shift Cable Connector Seal" in the AllPartsExpress store. My car is a '97 E300.

Pretty simple to replace, but not much working room if you're on ramps since this part is at the rear most end of the transmission.

0. Remove the rear transmission cross member. Two 13mm bolts and four 15mm bolts. The transmission will sag down just slightly, 2 or 3 cm.
1. Disconnect the part we're about to replace by giving the white plastic piece that goes into it, a 1/8 turn counter clockwise. It should pop right out. Just let the cord dangle there.
2. Using a T30 torx bit, undo the one bolt holding the "shift cable connector seal" onto the transmission. It should now wiggle around a bit loosely but you won't be able to pull it out just yet.
3. Drain the transmission.
4. Remove the transmission pan (six T30 torx bolts)
5. Look inside and you'll see a small metal lever arm that the "shift cable connector seal" attaches to. The arm rides on a metal pin. We need to remove this arm. Using a flat screwdriver, pry gently against the inside end of the metal pin. You'll see it start to come out the side of the transmission housing. Use plyers and grip the end of the pin to pull it the rest of the way out.
6. Catch the small spring that rides on the pin before it falls on the ground and gets lost.
7. Catch the metal arm and disconnect it from the plastic arm of the part we're replacing. Now pull the old part out.

Installation is the reverse of removal. You'll probably need a drift punch and a small mallet to tap the metal pin back into place. Use clean lint-free cloths and wipe each piece you've removed until it's amazingly clean before you reinstall them.

Since you're in here, you might as well drain the torque converter and replace the filter and pan seal too. Follow the proper procedures for refilling your transmission.

Open a cold beer and enjoy a leak free (and freshly serviced) transmission.