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  #1  
Old 02-26-2009, 09:08 AM
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Going to look at a 300 CD

The car has about 200k. What will be coming up in the future? I think that '85 was the last year for this car. Is their enough improvments in an 85 that would warrant buy a later model verseres the 81? Is their anything else to look for? I really don't much about diesels.

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  #2  
Old 02-26-2009, 09:29 AM
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Search for "new buyer," "buyer's checklist," etc.
There's lots of people who have asked similar questions in the past.

For a quick answer, a 1985 300CD is a turbo, a 1981 is a NA. The 1985 also has some gadgetry (some good, some bad) specific to the year- vacuum, EGR, trap ox (if you look at a Cali model), transmission, lowered rear end gearing for lower revs at highway speed.
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  #3  
Old 02-26-2009, 10:27 AM
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The 81 will have the 85 climate control and not the troublesome Chrysler one, it's the best N/A 300cd. The 85 has more things to break (turbo, more vacuum stuff) but will get better mileage than the 81 (about 2-3 mpg better, my non turbo 300cd gets 21mpg regularly) and have more power.

Make the biggest deciding factor be the one that's in better shape. Check window seals and see if all the windows go up/down, check the condition of front seats since it's hard to find springs and pads for those, that's my coupe specific advice. Check under the doors for rust since the door seals fail and water gets in.
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  #4  
Old 02-26-2009, 10:31 AM
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dont be bashfull about pulling out all of the carpets, specifically those in the rear, I always bring a long screwdriver and tap all of the underside of the floor with the plastic handle, taps are good, clunks are bad. as with all of these cars the double walls in the floors and rocker make them very difficult and labor intensive to fix rust. any floor rust beyond surface rust, is a deal breaker for me.
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
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  #5  
Old 02-26-2009, 11:02 AM
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Look for the car that has the most complete set of service records. The more things that have been done by the PO, the less you will have to do.
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  #6  
Old 02-26-2009, 11:23 AM
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The window regulators seem to be under built ,heavy window glass plus well built window motor vs a weakly designed window regulator = poor power window alignment.Its back window is also designed this way.The weather stripping is another thing to look at,to replace it is in the neighbor hood of $400.Other than that its a 300d jr.I would say on the up side the turning radious is better ,at least it feels like it is.I like the looks of the coupes also ,try searching for some 1999 clk rims if you buy it ,it finishes the cars looks.
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Old 02-26-2009, 01:13 PM
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[quote=chasinthesun;2123061]The window regulators seem to be under built ,heavy window glass plus well built window motor vs a weakly designed window regulator = poor power window alignment.Its back window is also designed this way./quote]
In my CD's records, it shows the driver's window regulator replaced 3-4 times... and it's broken again Definitely a weak point.
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Old 02-27-2009, 11:00 AM
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Ive seen here on this site a welded piece some one attached to fix their strength problem for this issue ,cant find it.Archive search ,it might be easy to find with the right phrase .
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  #9  
Old 02-27-2009, 11:36 AM
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I thought the coupe and the wagons had the turbo in 81...
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  #10  
Old 02-27-2009, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasinthesun View Post
Ive seen here on this site a welded piece some one attached to fix their strength problem for this issue ,cant find it.Archive search ,it might be easy to find with the right phrase .

I did that too but it didnt fix the problem. I plan to experiment with a weak spring on the front arm to pull it down in the front track and keep it from binding and self destructing.

for the original poster, be careful winding the rear windows up and down as they are a ticking time bomb.
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #11  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:00 PM
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The driver side window has had brazing done on one of the bolt locations; it appears that the regulator works loose over time, starts to flop around and stress other areas of the regulator. Mine cracked so I drilled a couple of holes and fabricated a plate that I bolted on to hold it together. Then I remounted the regulator using loc tite so it cant work loose. This was 2-3 years ago, and it has held so far.

The rear windows like to pop a circlip because the regulators twist. I seem to remember drilling holes thru the shaft the circlip goes on and putting a small cotter pin thru over the circlip.

If you dont get them re assembled with the arm in the right orientation, the rear windows will only wind down half way.....I forgot last time I did this on the drivers side, and it looks like the car has 'child safety' rear windows.
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  #12  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I thought the coupe and the wagons had the turbo in 81...

yes, it got it one year before the sedan
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  #13  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:13 PM
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The window regulators are definitely a huge problem with the coupes. Make sure all the windows go up and down...but if they don't, it's not horrible expensive or difficult to fix them. Just check that all of the coupe-specific parts are working/in good shape and you should be fine.
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  #14  
Old 02-27-2009, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
yes, it got it one year before the sedan
True, but IIRC from the production charts I've seen they still produced some NA coupes in 81 - so an 81 could be either an NA or a Turbo - depending on production date.

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