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  #1  
Old 03-04-2009, 03:09 PM
moon161's Avatar
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Non-toxic coolant to remedy leaky heater core.

Prior owner(s) had green coolant, so I have a leaky heater core, and athsma to boot, so the glycol vapors leave me a little short on wind. Demon additives (bars leaks) probably do more for my pariah cred than my leakage, though it is not as bad as it used to be.

I've been looking at Evans NPG+ as a non-toxic, non-pressurized coolant (1 atm boiling point 375F). My thinking is it's a better fix than a used heater core ($100 + dashectomy) or a new one ($300 + dashectomy).

My thinking is no pressure-> less leakage, food grade propylene glycol -> what leakage there is is not nasty.

Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 03-04-2009, 03:10 PM
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its better to fix it than toss money at it
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  #3  
Old 03-04-2009, 03:45 PM
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Evans is high,but you can do the same thing with the antifreeze named for the high California mountain range.Put it in straight.My next to do,my heater id fine.
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  #4  
Old 03-04-2009, 04:48 PM
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I was actually going to ask this question a few weeks ago but didn't get around to it.

I've seen most recommend either Zerex G-05 or official MB coolant. Are those toxic? If they are, the next question would be: What's the best non-toxic coolant to use? Will my aluminum thermostat housing disintegrate?
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  #5  
Old 03-04-2009, 04:51 PM
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interesting: this from wikipedia ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze#Propylene_glycol ):

Propylene Glycol oxidizes when exposed to air and heat. When this occurs, organic acids are formed viz. Glycolic acid, Glyoxalic acid, Formic acid, Carbonic acid & Oxalic acid. If not properly inhibited, this fluid can be very corrosive. Protodin is added to Propylene Glycol to act as a buffer, preventing low pH attack on the system metals. It forms a protective skin inside the tank and pipelines which helps to prevent acid attack that cause corrosion.

Beside cooling system breakdown, biological fouling also occurs. Once bacterial slime starts the corrosion rate of the system increases. In system where a glycol solution is maintained on a continuous basis, regular monitoring of freeze protection, pH, specific gravity, inhibitor level, color and biological contamination should be checked on routine basis.

Propylene glycol should be replaced when it turns reddish in color.
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2009, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
its better to fix it than toss money at it
i agree makes so much sense
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  #7  
Old 03-04-2009, 04:53 PM
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so you going to remove the dash and replace it?
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  #9  
Old 03-05-2009, 12:27 AM
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Some have had luck with a stop-leak product by circulating it through the heater core only for several hours using an aux water pump. If that does not work I would just replace it, pulling the dash only takes a few hours.
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  #10  
Old 03-05-2009, 12:59 AM
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I know the answer, but experiences, recommendations w/ used heater cores? I'm laid off, so a couple days in the dashboard is easier to come up with than $300.
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  #11  
Old 03-05-2009, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
I'm laid off, so a couple days in the dashboard is easier to come up with than $300.

I know how that goes. Try the junkyard. It should cost less than $20.
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  #12  
Old 03-05-2009, 11:07 AM
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I have a extra good used heater core that I can sell you. Never leaked price is negoiable
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  #13  
Old 03-01-2010, 10:58 AM
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2 used cores, 2 applications of bars leaks, same problem. 8-\.

Oldsinner111, did you apply the mountain-based coolant ($15 /gal at Need Another Part Always)? How'd it go?
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  #14  
Old 03-01-2010, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
2 used cores, 2 applications of bars leaks, same problem. 8-\.

Oldsinner111, did you apply the mountain-based coolant ($15 /gal at Need Another Part Always)? How'd it go?
Can these cores be repaired? I've taken other cores to a radiator shop. It usually costs a 6 pack or so because the guy likes quirky cars.
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  #15  
Old 03-01-2010, 11:43 PM
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I've been using Propylene Glycol for years in my many vehicles and have never noticed a problem with corrosion.

I've had it in a 300D for about 6 years and it just works. Had the thermostat housing off recently and it looks fine.

I've had it in an '81 VW diesel since about '91.

Ingest enough Ethylene Glycol and say goodbye to your Kidneys.

I would replace the heater core and then put the Prop. gly. in. Then the heater core will probably never fail again.
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