Great!!!! Thanks Rick!!!

That's a lot more info than "just remove the 9 bolts and there it is". After I got it off, I saw the springs and the plate but really did not want to start popping springs off not knowing exactly where it would lead. I figured the 'O' ring was probably between the 2 different types of metal but did not know how to get there.

Hopefully no rain this weekend and I can get this thing back on the road. Commuting in the Dodge Dually is killing my back!!! I miss my cruiser!!!!

I will let you all know if this takes care of the problem.

Just want to thank everybody for all the help!!!! I took out the front pump and put in the new 'O' ring......NO LEAKS!!!! Only took me 2 hours!!

I am back in the driver's seat and moving down the road!!!!

If the 2 hrs includes pulling the tranny, I am impressed.......

I wish more guys like you would take a stab at fixing slushboxes- we would probably be able to save a lot more of these great vehicles.:o


Rick

2 hrs total. From four wheels lift off to touch down!!! The time is the only thing I can brag about. The reason I did it so fast was because it was the 4th time I had separated the transmission from the engine.

This time it took a little longer because the big round thing behind the pump came out with it. I had to get all those pressure plates lined back up to get it too fit.

Thanks again for all the help!!!!

Wow !! Two hours.. I need to buy you a ticket to help me pull mine. I was figuring on at least a weekend (but I work slooooow).

I hope you kept all the discs and clutches in the same order (?) (!) (These are the really big B3 disc/clutches that fit along the ID of the case?) The front one should be a steel a little smaller than the others without the locking tabs and the rear one is thicker. You don't have to worry about the other ones in the pack, but the front and back steels have to be in the right places.

Rick

BTW: The ATSG service manual for this transmission gives the following for installing the torque converter:

Grease drive flange and crankshaft bearing with molycote. Turn torque converter back and forth when installing to allow teeth to mesh. Insert plastic retaining pin and turn 1/4 turn clockwise.

If the transmission oil pan contains metal chips, replace the torque converter. Metal chips cannot be completely removed by flushing the torque converter.

I'm surprised that you were able to mount the bellhousing to the block if the torque converter hasn't in all the way. It's a pretty tight fit for the flex plate and torque converter.

When I did mine, I just rotated it about a 1/4 turn and it slipped all the way in place.

The discs did not come out of order the entire thing came off and it was just a matter of getting them to all line up together. Just a little jiggling and a few words of persuasion and it slipped back together.

"I'm surprised that you were able to mount the bellhousing to the block if the torque converter hasn't in all the way. It's a pretty tight fit for the flex plate and torque converter."

Yeah, it surprised me too when it had gone back together so easily the first time and shifted a couple times then nothing. It took me two times pulling the transmission out to actually believe the tabs were sheared off of the front pump.

It is completely true, "When you install the converter bolts, you will notice that you will actually move the torque converter forward, toward the engine crankshaft when it is installed properly."

As soon as the weather gets nice I will get some pictures of the "3 girls" all lined up. I am so proud of the way they are running!!! I was really ready to trade in my 350's (Mercedes and Dodge) and by a new Ram 3500. Then a friend of mine had to tow his brand new Ram to the dealer and they had to replace 3 injectors, injector pump and a half dozen "sensors". That's when I realized, at least I can work on mine with out a bunch of computer equipment. Just good old fashioned hand tools......that and my wife said no.

The only computer equipment you need is this forum!!!!