Cold Compression test
 

Cold compression test on a non-starting OM617, ambient about 40F:
(psi)
280,
160 (200 w/ a little oil)
200
260
220

All injectors wet & nasty, all coked up so they get fuel but probably just piss it. Gave the valves a quick once over, I'll recheck #2, see if the exhaust is tight.

Haven't reamed the GP's, bet they're nasty too. Deja vu, front of engine is caked w/ oil.

Look like it's worth any more trouble? I don't need a winter starter, a 2 season car is fine. The interior is all shiny black faux leather.

2 and 3 low next to each other... head gasket? Maybe try retorqueing the head, too. Nothing to lose, right?

Question for you.....I am seeking data points on 616/617 engines
 

When was last time this engine started and ran??

If so how well?

#2 and #3 are below spec which I reckon should be a minimum of 220psi.

What was the oil consumption?

Good luck in any case. If it runs then fine.

I agree with head gasket diagnosis.

per PO, 2 years, smoky start, ok run. Oil use was 1 quart a week, which was out the front seal, I reckon, as the engine is caked w/ oil around the balancer.

Hadn't thought of the head gasket.

Don't forget that an oily engine is a symptom of high crankcase pressure = worn rings or plugged breather system. Not necessarily the case here, but just a heads-up.

Compression tests should be done on a fully warmed up engine. I did mine today by the "book".

yeah also since the piston rings have expanded and best sealing will occur which will give you most acurate results

I recently purchased an used engine and performed a cold compression test prior to attempting to start it. I couldn't run it long enough to warm it up since it wasn't in a car. My results were approximately 260 on #1 and about 350 on #2-5. It was about 70F outside when I did mine. Your numbers seem low to me, but maybe mine seem high to you.

I dont know if you interested but here are some of my tips for extending the life of a "rough" diesel, I put about a quart of ATF in the oil, for a few hundred km so that its fully circulated in the system. I do a lubro moly diesel purge. I also decarbonize the engine by useing a water spray misting bottle and spraying water into the turbo while the engine is running at 2500 Rpm for about 5 minutes. Once thats done I run a 5W40 sythetic oil. I personally have had good results with this technique.

Using water to decarbon the engine is a very old technique, Use your best judgement and dont hydrolock your engine.

After these steps, I noticed much smoother running, much easier starts, better power, and less smoke.

A lot of oil pushing around seals can also be a sign of very loose bearings. Seals are only designed to control a certain level of leakage, and too much will simply overload them and it will run out like water.

My old book says that for reliable starting the minimum tested cold is 220#.