Well, it seems that this awful winter hasn't finished robbing me of every dime in my pocket, and yet *another* thing has gone wrong this year. I swear, by the start of summer, I'll have replaced everything in my car aside from the chassis.

My 83 300D has never leaked a drop of fluid, as long as I've had it. Just the other day, I noticed a few drops of fluid under the rear right tire area. I had just filled the car with diesel, so I figured it was just a leaky 'overfill' hose, and was just excess diesel spilled on the ground. Drove the car home from work, and the same spots were on the ground there, too. I checked under the car, and lo and behold, the CV boot was ripped and dripping out oil. Fantastic.

I figure on a car this old, it's about time to replace the factory axles anyway. The problem is that with the economy the way it's been, I can't really afford to fork over the $600 per-side that my mechanic is quoting me for the parts. No sir, it's time to go the cheap route and wish for the best, which leads me to my questions.

The axles on my car are the homokinetic type. I want to install a set of annulars if I can, since they're easier to replace should they fail again. I don't know if I need to purchase a set of 12mm or 8mm axles, and is there any hardware required to 'convert' from one type to another, or are they just a drop in replacement? Do you guys have any place that sells these axles for cheap? I was thinking of getting some of the cheap ones from Advance Auto or NAPA, since I'm trying to keep it under $150 per axle, if possible. Also, I'm assuming it's safe to drive on the leaky one for now, since I'm just going to be replacing them anyway, right?

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(Oo{=|=}oO) 1983 MB 300D USA, 212,000mi. 80's yellow/white. "Gunther"
(Oo{=|=}oO) 1984 MB 300D Euro, Turbo Added in Germany, 186,000mi [SOLD] Missing her dearly.
(Oo{=|=}oO) 1984 MB 300D USA Turbodiesel, 269,000mi. [SOLD]

Go with the better axles. There is actually a recent thread with a "betting pool" on how soon the Advance axles will fail. Somewhere between 7,000 to 20,000 miles. I think. Pretty funny to read it.

After some reading it looks like it is better to try to fix your old axle if it is not clunking or loose (maybe a new boot). When they re-man the axles they actually grind away part of a hard surface that was supposed to be there. So, the re-man axles fail much sooner. For some reason, some of the re-man axles go farther than others.

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AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)

The above in Red only has to do with the size of the Bolts that go throught the end of th Axle down by the wheel/Rear Control Arm and pulls/retainS the splined shaft tight.
Reguardless of their size New Bolts should come with the new or rebuilt Axles. (See Thumb Nail pic.)
I do not see that the Annular Axles are any easier to change than the Homikinetic ones. On both you need to go inside the differential and remove the "C" clip to remove them.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is true, but with the Annular you only do it once. the next time undo the 6 bolts out side the Diff., then slide the axle out of the hub.

Hopefully, there won`t be another time.

$600.00 per side sounds about right to have it done.

It almost seems like there is a more abundance of the Homokenetic axles. I have only seen one set of annular at the PNP, all the rest have been Homo.

I have seen more Annular on the 126`s than the 123`s.

Pull a good set at PNP, I have several I have pulled. can`t have too many parts.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Have you done this yourself. I have not seen a write-up on changing the Boots on an Annular Axle so I am in the dark. Also the FSM shows only how to do the Homokinetic I believe.

Speaking of labor charges; I was at the Hardware Store and met a Sail Boat owner he said he paid $95 per hour x 4 hours to pay a Mechanic to come down and start his Engine. And, the Mechanic never got it started!

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Reboot them yourself. Your axles are probably in good condition(Unless you keep driving with a bad boot..that wiill ruin the joint at that end by grinding it away as gravel and sand get in) I rebooted a set with almost 400K on the axles. The wear was minimal but swapped sides with them to get a "fresh" wear surface for the balls to run on in the joint. I think it cost about $60 total and they still work fine many thousands of miles later.

You will need an angle grinder to cut the can joint. A shop press to separate the outer joint and press it back. I used the $10 universal style boot. I would not even consider using a split boot etc. All of the joints need to be flushed clean of the old oil and fresh lube used. If one uses a new can, you have to crimp the thing back together. I have not tried this but they say a hammer/pliers technique works. I used JB weld under a heat lamp and model aircraft glass cloth to seal the joint. Worked great and looks good when sanded smooth and painted. The official crimp tool for this job costs big bucks.

I only know of one other person on this forum who has done their own axles. You should try it...if you don't have what it takes to finish the job you can always buy the junk rebuilts or spend $$$ on new stuff. Your choice. ENJOY !

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Diesel-guy

No I haven`t changed out one of the axles yet. The last one the Indy replaced, but that was before was I fully aware of this Fourm.
I also haven`t changed a boot either. the hub end is the same I don`t remember the other end right now. the Homo have boots on both ends.

when I get back home I`ll have to get under and check. Iam in Portland, Or. now, leaving for home in the morning and don`t have the MB with me. Just the old Datsun PU.

I have pulled 9 of them at PNP. One Annular off a 123, only one side was good. I removed the 6 bolts, the center bolt in the hub, and think I shoved the splines in and pulled it down from the Diff end. wasn`t that hard as I remember. I did remove the Diff cover to get the stub end out.

I pulled a set off a 91 126 that were Annular. Had to buy the star shaped hex to remove the bolts.

I do know about the $600.00 for a replacement, that is what it cost the last time. THAT won`t happen again.

I feel it is well worth it to pull good axles at PNP. There good axles under some of these old MB`s. they are about $27 - $30 with the core, tax and environmental fee.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works