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#1
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Is this harming my performance/fuel efficiency?
I just bought a 1993 300D (2.5L Turbo) and I have discovered that the previous owner evidently used the car to work cattle.
It has all kinds of scrapes and the like on the undercarriage but the ones that concern me the most are those on the catalytic converter(if that's what it is called). Here are two pics of said damage: Is this restricting the exhaust flow to the extent that I could be hindering performance or causing engine damage? I'm not sure this is the same kind of catalytic converter that is found on a gasser so I don't know what is inside it. Could it be broken up and restrictive? My best MPG so far in about 1,000 driving is 29.5. My worst was 24.8 in very high winds and with me driving at relatively high speeds. The engine has NO blowby whatsoever. The transmission does shift a little abruptly, no slippage whatsoever though. Thanks for any help you might have to offer.
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. Last edited by i-osprey; 03-31-2009 at 10:46 PM. |
#2
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Its probably fine. BTW that's a 300SD right?
29mpg is excellent
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1981 300SD 512k OM603 |
#3
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Thats just a resonator, there is nothing inside it....a dent won't change its operation. Its just a hollow chamber to reduce sound from the engine.
I want a W124 2.5 diesel like that someday....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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That's music to my ears.
I'll bet you wish you could have a W124 300D like this one... While it is a salvage title and the sunroof and cruise control(missing a lever?) don't work, the interior is immaculate, climate control works, has new (15K miles) tires on it, it has new ball joints up front and new shocks on all four corners(it drives as tight as a new car). And.......I paid a whopping $2,225 for it!!!!! So far I had to African Engineer a rig for the right headlight that was sagging due to damage from the wreck that made it a salvage and tighten the right rear shock mount that was "popping" every time the tranny shifted. The air filter and housing was full of grass and dirt so I beat the filter out. I have a K&N direct replacement on order. My last tank was about 130 miles in town and 300 highway. I got 27 mpg on that fillup.
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. |
#5
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Quote:
2.5L Turbodiesel
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. |
#6
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Ixnay on the K+N
Use only the Mercedes Air Filter!
Blowing compressed air on it ,in the reverse direction, NO More than 10-15 PSI! will cleanse it.(per FSM) (The K+N will allow fine dirt to enter your Turbocharger and Intake Tract.) [Think GRIT]
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#7
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Yes, cancel the order and get a refund on that junk "filter". It will not increase performance at all, it will damage the engine by allowing dirt to enter and it will plug up and restrict the intake very quickly.
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#8
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I've got the 92 version. Great car. Check out some of my past post for issues I've had. Great car so far.
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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59 |
#9
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I have been using K&N filters for years, in both my street vehicles and numerous motorcycles, off road vehicles etc. Never had a problem.
Is there any proof of engine damage caused by a K&N filter or is this simply paranoia? Got my flame suit on so go for it!
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Darrell 1984 300SD "Ole Girl" 207K |
#10
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Quote:
The K&N allows more particulates to pass through it than the stock filter. The longevity of the engine, theoretically, is affected by increased particulates in the combustion chamber. Whether you'll notice the cylinder wear caused by the extended use of the K&N is highly questionable. |
#11
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I use KanN,but during dusty summers I run paper.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#12
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Don't use a K&N! Use the proper MB filter!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#13
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I use paper filters in both my MB's BUT I have a lot of customers that use K&N filters. One comes to mind that may shed some light on the subject. He installed a K&N in a new 94 Chevy 1500 with a 5.0L engine. So far, he has only been able to get about 350,000 miles on the truck. It still uses no oil, runs good and has no engine problems. He also has it serviced every 3K miles, keeps the transmission serviced every 30K, and in general keeps the truck in good shape.
The only engine problems we see now are caused by poor maintaince, not the wrong air filter. Moral to the story is.."Keep it serviced". Paul
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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles) |
#14
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One question I do have is about the oil from the K&N filter getting onto the mass air flow sensor or whatever Mercedes calls it.
Does anybody know about that?
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. |
#15
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The airflow sensor is a flap type, not a hot wire. It won't harm that sensor but the dirt it allws past will wear out the turbo.
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