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  #1  
Old 04-05-2009, 01:11 PM
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1986 300sdl - HELP

I am looking at a 300sdl (1986) 226K miles that hasn't been driven since Dec 07. Previous owner had an accident (not in car) and can't drive but it was in driving condition prior to that.......

What I am looking for information is, what do I need to check? For a car sitting this long what would you do? So far what I've considered is:
tires
change all fluids (front to rear)
have pump checked
injectors checked - or reset?
dump current fuel and add new fuel

Anything else please let me know - all advice is greatly appreciated. How much more do you think we can get out of this vehicle?

BTW, new (reman) transmission was installed November '07.

Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 04-05-2009, 02:28 PM
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Skid Row, Giving me the car. It came out of South Carolina so it has no body rust, paint on roof is sun faded, interior fair. Will get pics later this week.

I know it was running when parked and had to be jumped off last time it was started. ( Mid jan)
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  #3  
Old 04-05-2009, 04:41 PM
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Lazarus

Do
#1+2 and 5

'Have a look at the brake system also...

No need to mess with the Injection Pump or Injectors.If they were O.K. the only
thing that could have occurred would be a little "Varnishing".
This would be a classic use for "Diesel Purge"(Lubro Moly).

Also, Before you Start the first time...use a Mity Vac to apply Vacuum to the
IP's Fuel Shutoff valve and crank the engine with the Starter until you see
Oil Pressure on the Gauge.
(No Longer Than 15 Second Bursts,with 1 Minute Cool Off in between)
[What you've done is Pre-Lube the DRY engine]
Then reconnect your Vacuum hose to the IP ShutOff Valve ...
AND GLOW + Start.

I LIKE Diesel911's suggestions below!

I would (If you're gonna pull the Injectors )However squirt some "AeroKroil" into the cylinders and let it soak overnight.
OR Longer.
Then see if the engine will turn by HAND.
If good...Then use the engine Rotation to "Blow It Out" before replacing the Injectors.
['Tells you if anything is "Locked Down"]
The AK will also help free up the rings.
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Last edited by compress ignite; 04-05-2009 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 04-05-2009, 04:52 PM
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Don't start it on the old fuel in the tank. Bring fuel hose and run it to a jug of new clean Diesel Fuel.
If the Oil on the dip stick looks extremely gunky I would not start it on the old oilor oil filter either.
If they will come out easily pull the Glow Plugs before cranking the Engine this will remove any chance of a Hydraulic Lock in the Cylinders if any coolant has leaked into them and allow the Engine to easily be cranked and circulate Oil back to the parts.
It also would not hurt to squirt some Oil through the Glow Plug hole to lube up the cylinders before cranking with the Glow Plugs removed.
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Old 04-05-2009, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffa98 View Post
Skid Row, Giving me the car. It came out of South Carolina so it has no body rust, paint on roof is sun faded, interior fair. Will get pics later this week.

I know it was running when parked and had to be jumped off last time it was started. ( Mid jan)
Got it. Sounds like it has great promise since it runs.

Need pictures to assessment on how much to ask for it.
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2009, 05:27 PM
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I would check the fuel lines are ok,then fluids, fire it up and see what it does, maybe drive it a little, if you have compression kit and feel like checking compression it is not a bad idea either. There is a lot to be learned about the 603 motor so look here and fill up on information so that eventually you can get it in top shape and remember to use Oe parts and good quality synthetic lubricants.Zerex coolant and not the green stuff etc Good luck to you.
Ep
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Old 04-05-2009, 05:49 PM
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Thanks too all for the advice. 1st order of buisness in my plan was to pull wheels off where it sits and get tires on it. There is independant garage near me that specializes in MB... Especially the deisels. Was taking it to him for the tune up state inspection etc. I was going to pull it up on a dolly without starting it just in case of some of the thing mentioned. Will try to get it next week and post pics. will keep you all posted.

I have seen on a lot of these posts these cars with 250k+ on them will regular maint get me over that?
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2009, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffa98 View Post

I have seen on a lot of these posts these cars with 250k+ on them will regular maint get me over that?
Nawww....If the car you are buying has had decent maintence in the past and you give it good maint in the future, then this baby should run to about 400K miles.....just do stuff the correct way.

and DO NOT overheat the engine.
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Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #9  
Old 04-05-2009, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffa98 View Post
Thanks too all for the advice. 1st order of buisness in my plan was to pull wheels off where it sits and get tires on it. There is independant garage near me that specializes in MB... Especially the deisels. Was taking it to him for the tune up state inspection etc. I was going to pull it up on a dolly without starting it just in case of some of the thing mentioned. Will try to get it next week and post pics. will keep you all posted.

I have seen on a lot of these posts these cars with 250k+ on them will regular maint get me over that?
It'll get you over 500K+ with regular maintenance......easy.

My last car was a '83 300SD with 305K miles on it, 16 years old. Sold it for top dollar in front of my home in one week. I had no need to buy a new MB diesel, but did buy a '99 E300 10 years ago. It now has 117K on it, and it looks like new......garaged here in Dallas, Texas.

Most owners of these have no idea of how good a car they own. They seem to go into convulsions and buy numerous old MBs long before 300K is ever reached. Funniest thing I've ever seen.

You simply cannot own a better MB diesel than the '86 - '87 300SDL. Take that to the bank.


Last edited by Skid Row Joe; 04-05-2009 at 10:41 PM.
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