|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
No power until warms up
I know these old diesels (85 300SD) don't have a lot of power , but mine has none until it warms up . After it warms up its not bad and by the way I do get 30 miles to the gallon and little better somtimes . Its worse when its cold out . Could this be a trany problem , fuel , the guy behind the wheel . Does anyone have any ideas where or what I could check first ? The trany fluid has always looked good (bright red) and has not needed any in the 6 months (15000 miles) I owned had it.
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Usually, the IP timing and camshaft timing are late and this robs power at all speeds. The fact that it's cold exacerbates the problem.
Additionally, if the valves haven't been set in 50K miles, that's another issue to address, but, you'd typically get starting problems if they are too tight. Finally, if everything above is done, there is the possibility of increasing the fuel quantity at lower power settings by adjustment of the ALDA. All of these recommendations are detailed in hundreds of posts........and you can search on those terms using the search function. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
At 10 degrees outside, I figure I start out with about 50 horsepower and get an additional 10 horsepower for every 1/2 mile or so until I reach full horsepower. In my experience, it's worse without a turbo.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I'd suspect marginal injectors as well. Bad spray patterns will have more of a detrimental effect when things aren't warm enough to assist in atomization / vaporization of the fuel.
__________________
1987 W201 190D |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
It's possible you have worn rings. As your engine warms up, your rings will expand, which increases compression sealing and then improving power. Check your compression when you have a chance.
Worn engines are known to get good fuel economy as well.
__________________
DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
How about the simple stuff first like fuel filters, or dirty/plugged up boost line. I would definitely check your boost line that goes from the turbo to the switchover valve to the alda, and the valve itself. Clean the line - and the valve - with brake cleaner spray to remove soot.
Messing with alda would be a last resort, imo.
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
This has me baffled . I have put a lot of miles on this car in a short time . I have changed oil every 3000 miles and all filters (oil ,fuel and air). It acts like an old man getting out of bed. The first mile or so I could get passed by my little brother in his electric wheel chair but when it warms up it runs like hell and i would rather drive it than my 08 GMC . Call me sick everyone else does , this is the first car i have ever owned and i love it . I just dont want to tear something up that I could have fixed before it gets bad .
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Anyways, hope that helps. I'm sure you'll get more replies.
__________________
-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Me too...
I feel your pain, mine acts exactly the same way... After the purchase, I did all the things that other members recommended (new filters, valve adjustment, even ripped off the ALDA cap and made as slight, careful adjustment, measured the timing chain stretch) - it helped with the overall acceleration, but still - when cold we're going nowhere...
When I pull out of my subdivision and the engine is cold, I have to carefully time my merge into the traffic, or else I'll soon have a string of angry tailgaters behind me... once warm, the car is actually pretty zippy. Always wondered if other owners have similar experience with their cars, or if it's just mine. James
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Remember, these are compression ignition engines, and the thing that makes the pistons go up and down and the crankshaft go round is the force of expanding gasses against each piston. When cold, a lot of the heat of combustion goes into the cylinder head instead of expanding and pushing the piston down. As the head and the rest of the engine gets hot, then more force remains and is applied to each piston. And because these are cast iron engines, which has a high heat content (takes a lot of BTUs to raise the temperature), a lot of energy goes into making the engine hot enough to make adequate power. Diesel engines like to run HOT. Commercial diesel engines sometimes have ceramic piston crowns and cylinder head liners so they can run REALLY hot. So poor cold weather driveability is the nature of the beast. I often modify my commuting route in the winter so when I leave my house in the morning, I avoid non-signal controlled intersections, I can't rely on any power to scoot me across 2 lanes of oncoming traffic and avoid getting tee-boned as I pull out onto busy streets.
'77 300D 355Kmi '95 C220, 180kmi |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Answer
Quote:
Read the valve adjustment thread: * The factory service manual calls for adjustment every 15k miles. * If the exhaust valve adjustment is tight = you loose (unknown %) compression = more difficult to start and slower warm-up. * If the cam/rockers have a little wear = they must be adjusted a bit loose, crank engine one revolution and re-check/adjust any tight ones... Here are a couple of threads to help you.. Diesel Injection: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142405 Valve adjustment OM617 FYI. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=107729 Diesel Fuel Delivery: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142399 Have a great day.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
It also makes a difference that you're a mile high.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
My car does the exact same thing. All of my filters are good, my valves are properly adjusted, and the alda line has been cleaned. One of these days I will install a boost gauge and I might play with the alda to see if that makes any difference. My best guess for the problem has been my injectors. I get a slight nailing when the engine is cold. Last weekend I was actually trying to climb a hill at the camp I work at in the mountains and the car did not make it. I had to back down the hill, wait for te car to warm up a bit and then try it agian. My brother always cracks on my car and this little display with him in the car didn't help.
__________________
1985 Euro 300TD Turbo |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
This thread sounds like its becoming a cold diesel support group My Sd does the same thing, to the point that when I leave the driveway in the morning I cannot manage more than 5 mph up the gentle grade of my street. My neighbor wondered out loud what I was doing creeping past his house in the morning.
He isn't just paranioid. The thing about my car is that once I am past his house, the car takes off like a rocket, often catching second gear on the loose gravel. I have cleaned and adjusted the alda, bypassed the overboost protector, changed all filters, and valve adjustment, and a diesel purge. My latest guess is that the spring is worn in the lift pump and/or the seals in the lift pump are hardened and need to warm up before delivering enough fuel. Since spring is almost here, I won't have to worry about it again until Fall. The car has no symptoms unless the outside temp is below 50.
__________________
1985 300 TD 448K 1984 300 TD 278K 1983 240D euro 240k 1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K 1986 f-350 IDI 1987 F-350 IDI 1985 JD 1050 4wd 1965 IH 3660 |
Bookmarks |
|
|