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  #1  
Old 04-14-2009, 04:50 PM
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battery issues?

I have about got this thing on the road. But, The battery will only attempt to start the car one time. then it has to be charged. takes about 10 min. then it will try again.
Sound like the battery? or a drain on the car??

thanks

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  #2  
Old 04-14-2009, 05:02 PM
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More details-has the car been sitting long? How old is the battery? If the car has been sitting, what were the reasons?
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83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2009, 06:49 PM
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The car has ran in the last few days, just trying to get it on the road.
I can start it. But if it does not start, I have to charge it, I only get one chance.
Also seems that if the car sits for a few hours it will not start.
There is not a big spark when connecting the cable.
Need to go get a fuse for the amp part of my meeter...
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  #4  
Old 04-15-2009, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackestate View Post
The car has ran in the last few days, just trying to get it on the road.
I can start it. But if it does not start, I have to charge it, I only get one chance.
Also seems that if the car sits for a few hours it will not start.
There is not a big spark when connecting the cable.
Need to go get a fuse for the amp part of my meeter...
I would recharge the Battery for several hours and after that have the battery load tested at the local parts place (for free).

If it test out OK I would put the Battery back in the car (after recharging again for several hours) but do not connect Both of the cables.

The next morning connect the Cable and try to start the Car. If the Car starts OK indicating that the Battery held the charge all night, it may be that you have a Short some in your wiring that is draing the battery over time.

Also ounce the Car is started check to see if the Charging light goes out or even better check it with a Volt Meter.
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  #5  
Old 04-15-2009, 02:06 AM
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I recently had the same thing happen with both of my Benzes. I could charge up the battery, the car would start, and the ammeter warning light would not come on, but it would only start once or twice.

I discovered a while ago that a new battery was over $100, while I could get a reconditioned one for $32. The new battery lasted 4.5 years, while the reconditioned ones would last from 2.5 to 5.0 years, so I went back to Battery Nation and had them check it out. Both batteries and both charging systems passed the test, but the voltage would drop on the tester when cranking, so I replaced them both, with gen you wine MB white reconditioned batteries.

I think the problem was a cell going bad. One battery lasted 2 years 3 months, the other at least 4 years.
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  #6  
Old 04-15-2009, 09:15 AM
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Couple ideas...

Does the battery light come on when the ignition is in glow?
If not - light bulb shot, light bulb holder shot, etc... I've read that the alternator will not charge the battery if the battery light circuit does not have continuity.

You can pull out the ahstray and hook up your volt meter to the 12V power supply to the cigar lighter then go for a drive to see how the system charges at various RPMs.

I recently went through some battery issues and ended up putting in a voltage gauge so I can monitor the charging from the cabin (was overcharging and cooked a battery).
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  #7  
Old 04-15-2009, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I would recharge the Battery for several hours and after that have the battery load tested at the local parts place (for free).

If it test out OK I would put the Battery back in the car (after recharging again for several hours) but do not connect Both of the cables.

The next morning connect the Cable and try to start the Car. If the Car starts OK indicating that the Battery held the charge all night, it may be that you have a Short some in your wiring that is draing the battery over time.

Also ounce the Car is started check to see if the Charging light goes out or even better check it with a Volt Meter.
What he said.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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  #8  
Old 04-15-2009, 04:21 PM
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Battery can sulphate over time even if not used.

Invest in a good quality de-sulphator, I purchased one from the US which I think is a bit feeble better off with the UK hand built jobbies.

If your interested I'll dig out a link, here's some good info on battery maintenance.

http://www.cbcdesign.co.uk/dcsupplyapril2002issue.htm
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  #9  
Old 04-15-2009, 05:00 PM
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The charge light is working, and I am at 13V when the engine is running. disconnected and the battery was at 11V after about 3 hrs.
I have a smaller battery. I think I will see what it does. I suspected this battery of being bad once before in another car. Maybe it finally died?
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Old 04-15-2009, 05:51 PM
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I suspected this battery of being bad once before in another car. Maybe it finally died?
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The size battery both of my cars are supposed to have would not fit in most other cars. Diesels have high compression ratios (typically over twice that of most gassers) and require a lot more amps to crank over.
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  #11  
Old 04-15-2009, 07:42 PM
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After I had the suspected battery tested, as good, it ran the car for another 6mo. And has since sat through the winter...
I will leave this smaller battery hooked up tonight, and see what happens in the morning.
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2009, 10:19 PM
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The charge light has never informed me of a bad battery or alternator. If you disconnect the battery, it will come on, and if you turn off the ignition, the charge light will come on until the vacuum shuts the engine off.

I would prefer an ammeter.
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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

"Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana"
---Marx (Groucho)
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2009, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Eldridge View Post
The charge light has never informed me of a bad battery or alternator. If you disconnect the battery, it will come on, and if you turn off the ignition, the charge light will come on until the vacuum shuts the engine off.

I would prefer an ammeter.
Interesting......
I am starting to think about putting in an ammeter too; and using this light and maybe a buzzer for a low oil pressure warning... I have not found it much use as a 'Battery light'.
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1983 300CD ('Stinky')155k miles, 2.47 diff, EGR removed, AAZ injectors with 265 nozzles from Sean,and vogtland lowering springs.
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  #14  
Old 04-21-2009, 04:59 AM
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Electrons

Don't disconnect Alternator leads with engine running...DEAD DIODES result.
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  #15  
Old 04-21-2009, 02:11 PM
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Ahhhh diodes...?

Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
Don't disconnect Alternator leads with engine running...DEAD DIODES result.
So if a fella neglected his flickering 'Battery light" too long, perhaps worn brushes... That would be like disconnecting the Alternator and the diodes would now be blown???
Where are the diodes? are they in the 'regulator/brush set?
I replaced that and it still isn't charging... but now the 'battery light' is out, but then now the Bat light and the other warning lights are all out even when I first turn the key and haven't started it yet. I think the lights were working intermittently before I changed the brush/regulator set (and the #2 GP which was dead)

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Thanx,
Alberta Luthier
1983 300CD ('Stinky')155k miles, 2.47 diff, EGR removed, AAZ injectors with 265 nozzles from Sean,and vogtland lowering springs.
1984 300SD ('Old Blue')150k Klicks from Japan originally, came with rear head rests, no sunroof and never had an EGR
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