OM603 to OM606 Fan Clutch Mod ????
 

I have 87 300D OM603.

I bought new 98-99 E300 (OM606) fan clutch (because it was $200 cheaper than OM603 version).

Will my old metal fan from my 87 work with this OM606 fan clutch? I want to just drop in the fan clutch and use everything else from OM603.

Anyone know for sure before I dismantle the car?

if it works, it will save OM603 owners $266.

No, you have to use a plastic fanwheel with the new clutch.

-J

Are you sure? Look at post #8 and 22. Is he wrong?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1996319

Thanks, ive gotten conflicting answers, i dont want to take it all apart and find i still need the plastic fan...

I could be wrong. But I would think that the new clutch isn't designed to deal with the weight of the metal fanwheel. I'll agree with you that the job is enough of a bear you wouldn't want to repeat it.

-J

Damn good point. The 606 fan clutch looks pretty massive, but yeah im sure the plastic fan is 3x lighter than metal.

Anyone else??

I went to the plastic fan for the same reason. It would not take much work to get the metal fan to fit BUT it is a good bit heftier.

This does give me an idea...:idea2:

If someone who may have tried this could tell us. Has anyone who has to drive in hot climates (I mean more than MN on a summer day - think San Antonio, Atlanta or Miami) ever made a direct to the water pump spacer/clutch eliminator for the fan OR installed a flex fan?

In July 2008 I replaced both the clutch and the fan on my 603 with the 606 clutch and plastic fan. Works fine, didn't cost that much. The 606 clutch is very similar in beefiness to the 603 clutch so you could mount the metal fan on it if it were modified but why bother? The plastic fan is lighter and spins more easily.

No Fan Clutch
 

Sean,

It'd work,But really drag the engine especially @ Hwy speeds (MPG suffer)
AND put excess wear on the whole Serpentine Belt Drive System.

I'm surprised you haven't gone to Evan's Waterless Coolant
(Much cooler Operating temps [up to 10Fcooler],even under extreme Load/Heat conditions)
It does not "Pressurize" the system like water based coolants.
(You would want to plug the H2O pump's weep holes with "Something" [RTV?]
and also seal off the Overflow Tank Exit [in the passenger side Fender.]The
Evan's is hygroscopic, and any water introduced lowers benefits.)

http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm

I never tried it myself, but I purchased an 11-blade fan from a fellow member here because he had no use for it. He used the metal fan with the new clutch and let my current fan sit around.

why/how does metal fan require modification to use on 606 fan clutch? sounds to me like it drops right in...im probably missing something.

why bother? saves $60.

Sorry I havent been on in a few days...But ill start out saying that the info i have gotten from this site for my 87 300d w/om603 is invaluable from the repair to my CCU, Vacuum testing procedures and how-to's,advice and how to's on injector nozzle replacement and much more to mention...but to clear the air on this 606 clutch upgrade and save some people the $50+ dollar plastic fan when possible...I have installed the 606 clutch into the metal fan without any new bolts or modification.. I accidentally found out I ordered the 606 clutch and plastic fan from online parts distributor from advice on this site(part#s on other thread) but the clutch arrived a day early and fan wasnt till next day but i had already taken old one apart in my garage so as part of my ADHD i started the work and found that it was a drop in and i could have my car back on the road immediately so i did and works flawlessly..Im starting my 2nd summer with perfect operating temps even with a/c on and many trips made with no problems..as explained in previous thread i couldnt keep it below 100C w/aux fan jumped before so i claim victory and has about 8 to 10 thousand miles on it (odom doesnt work)Hope this helps im not trying to start anything with anyone just my experience...thanks to everyone on this site for the info that keeps my 22yr old benz going :)

Arlo

How long has it been going? I have a friend who had is fan clutch replaced, but then the new clutch failed about 2 months later. The shop had simply replaced the clutch on his metal fanwheel.

If a new plastic fanwheel is only $50 just buy it and put it on the new clutch. That's way cheaper then the time required to re-do the job!

-J

ok thanks guys, once again this forum proves invaluable.

im sticking with metal fan, i know its only $60 (plus bolts) to switch to plastic fan, but for me i need the car to get over unicoi gap on sat with 2 bikes and a full load of kids and gear. i dont have the time right now to order the plastic fan and go to dealer to buy the bolts.

i will let you know, seems like its been pretty well proven. I'll keep the $60+ bucks (for now, hopefully forever). I'll update.

Thanks again!!!

I was able to work on the mule last night and get it all back together.

The 606 fan clutch indeed fits the 603 metal fan. The only difference I saw was the 606 fan clutch has slightly thinner profile, so the fan sits about 1/8” farther away from radiator. No big deal, it still fits in the shroud OK and clears the serp belt and accessories just fine.

FYI, the 9 blade metal fan weighed 840 grams (in case anyone wants to compare to plastic fan weight). The 606 fan clutch weighed 855 grams, and the 603 clutch weighed 940 grams.

I also bought a can of industrial condenser cleaner from Grainger and did what Brian previously instructed. Man that thing was dirty, you couldn’t really see thru it when held up to light. After degreasing it for 2 hrs and spraying out with garden hose for 15 min, it was a lot cleaner, but still has debris in between the coils.

I also installed the new res and coolant level sensor

And tried to install the new lower rad hose but World Pac sent a hose that didn’t fit (just like the upper hose they sent me a year back). Took another hr to dismantle everything to reinstall the old rubber lower rad hose. Not happy bout that… guess I will have to go to dealer and buy 1.

I will drive it for next few weeks and let you know how it does. Its pretty hot today so I should be able to get on it going home from work, see if it hits 120C again…

Oh 1 question – wheres the hose on top of res (at the cap) go to? Mine broke (actually crumbled) when I tried to remove it off old res. I will have to replace, but it looks like it goes toward passenger cabin somewhere? Is is bad to run engine with this disconnected? I had to cut off the end and its sorta/kinda reconnected but too short so I need another 1.

Compressed air, and/or a nylon brush, can help to get more debris out of the condenser. If the radiator is removed, perform the same treatment on it as well.



Smart move - the new reservoir has a silica pack to help control corrosion. Make sure you only use MB or Zerez G-05 "yellow" antifreeze when re-filling. In a hot climate where freeze protection isn't critical, use less... maybe only 2-4 quarts of a/f (for a 20%-40% mix). I add the a/f first, plus a full bottle of Water Wetter, then fill up the rest of the way with distilled water. Don't re-start the car until you can feel liquid in the upper radiator hose. If you can't feel liquid up there... the system isn't filled properly.



Some items simply are NOT worth buying aftermarket. My '95 E420 came with aftermarket radiator hoses installed. The upper hose touched the p/s reservoir. I replaced it with a new OE/dealer hose which was curved properly and didn't touch the reservoir. Unfortunately, it's often a trial & error method to determine which items you can buy OEM/aftermarket to save a few bucks, and which items should always be purchased OE/dealer. If you need a lead on buying dealer stuff at wholesale, drop me a line.



It better not. BTW, does your electric fan kick on high at 105°C? If not, you really should replace the switch, I used the gray one on my car (click here). If the engine still runs hot (anything over 105°C outside of Death Valley indicates a problem)... how old is the radiator, and how old is the water pump?



That hose goes to the overflow catch tank in the wheel well - if you remove the plastic splash panel inside the fender, you'll see it. When the cooling system gets extremely hot (say, 120°C) the coolant may overflow into this tank. When it cools, it pulls the liquid back into the system. Just find some hose of the proper I.D. and splice it into the existing hose... it should turn soft after it goes through the firewall partition. This is a common problem.


:zorro: