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#1
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Upper Control arm nightmare
Decided to replace my upper control arms due to worn bushing and a worn ball joint. Passenger side blot was seized to the sleeve - would not budge! So after reading other threads on this problem - I decided I would try to cut the bolt / sleeve with the sawszall. Sawzall cut through the metal great, but it was kind of hard to get the blade in there with the stabilizer bar in the way. At first attempt, I was cutting against the stabilizer without really realizing it!!. So how bad did I screw this up?? I hate saying this, but would this be an OK situation to fill in with JB weld?
Last edited by whunter; 08-01-2010 at 01:48 PM. Reason: attached picture |
#2
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weld it- not the jb kind.
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#3
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The sway bar tip is rusted too far and needs repair = combine the weld with the repair.
QP1000 Torsion Bar Saver W123, W126 S-Class http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=178104 |
#4
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I'd take whunters opinion.
Next time, maybe use a die grinder.
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif |
#5
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83 SD 84 CD |
#6
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Unfortunately, You're best bet now is replacement. With a cut like that to the spring-steel that these torsion-bars are made of, I wouldn't trust any type of repair.
Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
#7
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There is none with heat treated.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#8
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Is there anyone who thinks that if the Sway Bar was going to break it would break at the tips that are at least 1/2 the diameter of the Sway Bar instead of at the scary cut (which I think is more of a Psychological issue)?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
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I agree with Diesel911. That cut is not significant, and the bar is not heat treated nor is it spring steel-if it were the weld on repair piece would not work. If the end of the bar is usable, I'd put it back together the way it is.
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#10
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Over the short term. I would agree. The problem over the longer term is that the cut could cause a concentration of stress which could lead to a crack which could eventually cause a failure of the bar.
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#11
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Quote:
I've seen torsion bars snap from rust craters much shallower that that cut. They didn't break immediately, but they did break. Maybe this stabiliser bar isn't made of such fragile steel, but I'm not the one that will be taking the chance. Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
#12
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Quote:
If that same cut was down there next to the the 90 degree bend I would be worried.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#13
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Quote:
Yet the repair seems to work.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#14
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I mig welded a bolt to the rusted/broken off end of one of these bars. The car was then driven the 500 miles or so back home and sold a few years later. If the bar were made of a spring steel it likely would have cracked at the weld. On the other hand it's really not a heavily stressed part.
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#15
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Thanks for all the replies guys. I was actually wanting to sell this car soon (83 240D). And was really bummed out when I did this! I really don't have the time right now to replace the whole thing like probably should be done (I would probably break other stuff yanking it out), and I have no welding experience or anything. I was just wanting to get a feel for how bad of a situation this was so I know how to communicate that to any potential buyers.
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