Hi there, I just replaced the hand primer pump on our 1985 300TD wagon, and now it wont start again. I also replaced the diesel spin-on filter and the primary filter. Ive been told you just gotta keep cranking till the fuel eventually purges the air out of the lines. Ive run the battery dead 2 or 3 times doing this now (and its a honkin battery). When I pump the primer pump I see a few bubbles enter the primary filter and then stop and the I can see it happen again a minute or two later and stop if I keep pumping. Also I see the fuel climb up one of the transparent lines that leads into the secondary fuel filter as I pump, once it pumps up to the filter It bubbles down again as if it pured out into the filter. (it takes a long time to do that) Ive filled the filter with diesel before putting it back on, Ive kept the fuel cap off when cranking to prevent a vacuum in the tank. Ive also siphoned out all the fuel and removed the tank screen to see if it was clogged but it wasnt. Ive tried testing the suction of the fuel line between the fuel primer pump and (I guess eventually the line to the fuel tank?) simply by actualy sucking on the hose slightly to see if there was resistance. There did seem to be some and I was wondering if this would be an indication of plugged line or simply the natural resistance of pulling fuel out of the tank.? Also when I sucked (I know risking a mouth full of diesel but Im quite tool deprived) I could feel the resistance and then sometimes it would bring bubbles into the primary filter however I could still suck fuel and it wasnt like air was pouring in but a few bubbles when the pressure got high enough it seemed.
Its said its a pain to get the air out of the lines of diesels like this but I didnt expect it to be this bad. Ive been trying for a couple of days now to no avail. Any Ideas? It was also suggested to get a generic in-line fuel pump to put in after the primary filter to purge the line simply by connecting a couple aligator clips to the battery when needed. However when the pump isnt on it seems like it would generate a lot of resistance in the line is that not so?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
Michael

Does your spin on filter housing have a little air weep hole at the top ?

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

If you emptied the Fuel Tank you had an awful lot of air volume to get rid of from the tank up to the IP.
To save your Battery I think it is best to use the Hand Primer no matter how long it takes.

Some Members loosen the Fuel Outlet Banjo Bolt on the Filter Housing so that the Air bleeds out fast. To find the outlet you can look at the Filter Housing and you will see a small Arrow cast into the housing pointing away from the Filter Housing.

Another way to locate it is to see that it is the the line that goes down to the IP at the Front of the IP. loosening the Banjo Bolt at that spot will also allow a fast fill when you change the Spin-on Filter.

After you get Fuel up to that point and have tightened the Banjo Bolt you are still not done.
You need to pump on the Hand Primer to clear the Air out of the IP housing. If you listen closely you will hear a buzzing or squeeling sound over by the Overflow Valve. When that sound changes or stops you are done pumping.

In you present situation sinc you already creanked the Engine you most likely pumped Air that is now trapped between your Injectors and the IP in side of the Hard Lines.
Loosen all of the Injedctor Nuts up by the Injectors and crank the Engine until you see fuel comming out; after that tighten the nuts and try to start.

So you are actually bleeding air out of 2 sections. The Fuel Supply section that includes the Spin-on Filter and the Fuel Injection Pump housing.
Next you are bleeding the air from the Hard Lines. (If you run out of Fuel it will also be necessary to bleed this area too).

If all you had done was change the Spin-on filter; pumping with the hand primer a lot until you hear that buzzing sound and the sound changes is most often enough by itself.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have had to loosen the overflow valve bolt before. I think that if you have enough air in the IP it will take forever to get it out if you don't loosen this bolt. I'm not sure exactly why, but it just takes longer with that valve functioning. Think of the air inside acting like a spring. If your pumping against this spring is more difficult than without. So, I would recommend loosening it and pumping till you get fuel coming out, then you know the IP is full of fuel. Then you can loosen the injector lines at the injectors and crank it until fuel comes out there. It will start at this point.

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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

You can buy a hand pump at Pep Boys or Car Quest that is normally used to pump something like gear oil from a container into the fill hole on the side of a transmission or differential. I used one of these to prime my completely empty fuel system after replacing the leaky fuel pipes underneath my TD.

All you need to do is to disconnect the intake hose from the primer/lift pump assembly and connect it to the input of the hand pump, then connect the other side of the hand pump to the nipple on the primer/lift pump assembly using one of the included transparent hoses. This pump can move a lot more diesel than the primer pump and will have you set up in no time.

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1984 300TD

For moving air from the line at the bottom of the tank to the engine compartment...
You can use compressed air put into the fuel tank... loosen the place it is going to ( perhaps put a catch can also )... then put an air gun wrapped with a rag into the opening... does not take much to get it going....I use this to siphon out old fuel also.. with a tube already inserted I just get it started with the air pressure..... once it starts you can leave it to run out..

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

When I wasn't able to use my primer pump I would use a mityvac to get the fuel up to the injection pump. I would use a clamp or something to pinch off the fuel line so the diesel couldn't go back in to the tank. It would take maybe 10 - 15 seconds of cranking before it would start to catch, but then another minute or two of trying before it would run enough to get all the air out. I HATED doing this to my car, so be happy you have a new pump now.

I'd say mityvac it (if you have one) to the injection pump, then use the primer pump to get it the rest of the way.

Great very good start anyways. So when I loosen the injectors do I simply loosen the first "nut" i come to when you follow the metal line or the one thats against the engine?
Thanks so much.
P.S. Sorry but just to be clear, what is the IP. (Im still unfamiliar with the lingo!)

You don't need to loosen any injectors!!! Put some fuel in the tank, make sure the hose connections are tight and use the primer pump. Loosen the return bolt on the top of the spin-on filter and pump until fuel comes out instead of air.

I disagree. If you loosen the injector lines, the air will evacuate much quicker. plus, you'll know when you've got fuel at the injector rather than guessing. IP=injection pump Just loosen the nut on each injector (the one that attaches the metal line to the injector) and crank with the peddle floored till you get fuel (after everything else is bled) re-tighten and go.

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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

So your talking about the bolt with the arrow pointing AWAY from the filter housing as mentioned by Diesel911?

[I do not understand why someone would decide to pick on the "loosen the Injectors" comment when later in the sentance it is clear that your meaning was to Loosen the Injector Nuts not to Loosen the Injector itself from the Head. So I hope you guys are not going to argue over that.]

IP= Injection Pump or Fuel Injection Pump.
The Lift Pump/Fuel Supply Pump is bolted to the side of the IP and is the one that has the Hand Primer on it; at least on the older models.

If all you did was changed the Filter and after that used the Hand Primer to clear the air from the IP housing; loosening on the #1 Injector would be extra Insurance to get the air out.

However, ounce you have cranked the Engine and air has gotten into all of the Injector Hard Lines I would loosen all of the nuts up by the Injectors and make sure all fuel is getting to all of the Injectors.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Either bolt on the top of the filter housing will work. The smaller one with the hoses (return lines) attached is the better option.

I ment #2; this is the Fuel that is going into the IP.

Alternativly you could loosen the very top small Banjo Bolt; the one with the 2 hoses and 1 tubing going into it but you will have a slight resistance when using the Hand Primer as the line with the Plastic Tubing goes down the the back of the IP and attaches to the Overflow valve.
So there are several varations to choose from.

To be honest if just change the filter; I do not loosen anything and just Pump a lot on the Hand Primer; listen for that sound I mentioned to change and hope for the best. That way there is no mess.

If I was lazy and did not pump enough on the Hand Primer and I get some air in the Injector Hard Lines I loosen the Injector Nuts and bleed that air out (and scold myself for not pumping enough).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

yup. since you have cranked with air in the lines, I'd do, in this order...
loosen the arrow out line nut on the side of the spin on housing.
pump the hand primer until it's seeping fuel bubble free then tighten the nut.
pump the hand primer until it is quiet when you pump, and you feel resistance in the fuel flowing with each pump...
loosen the 17mm injector line nuts from the top of the injectors, and pump some more, it's unlikely any fuel will come out during this step but it does not hurt to do it.
then while the lines are still loose, have someone crank the car while you watch the nuts for bubbles and fuel. as each line becomes bubble free, tighten them up while still cranking. if it starts while you are cranking it's ok, just keep watching the lines and tighten them up as you see them seeping bubble free fuel. when ALL lines are tight again, charge the battery well, then follow normal 30 second glow procedure, and give it a good crank and it should start right up!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
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My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!