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  #1  
Old 05-19-2009, 12:58 AM
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Failed Injector Hard Line - W124 300D 2.5Turbo (PICS)

Back story,
I've had my 300D for about 6 months, it has 156k miles on it, and it was starting to run rough, especially at idle. I bought a new set of injectors, diesel purge, two new fuel filters, new air filter, and replaced the injector pump manifold orings (which were badly leaking).

After the diesel purge (2 cans) new injectors, and new fuel filters the car has been running WORSE! It pings and clacks just as loud as before, and I was hopeful that the new injectors wouldn't "nail" as hard. To make matters worse, two nights ago on the last 30 miles of a 200 mile road trip, the #3 injector line failed at the injector nut.

I'm guessing the line fatigued as when I bought the car, the backing plate that holds the hard lines was missing both bolts, and all the plastic clips were broken.


Failed hard line #3


Special flange sheard/fatigued off

Anyone know the bolt size for the two bolts that hold this backing plate one? How about a part number and place to buy the plastic snap clips that go on this thing (see below) This plate was loseing and rattleing around when I bought the car

Missing bolts and plastic clamps on hard line backing plate

I also need to replace one of he injector hard line nuts like this one, as due to the failed missing flange, the nut fell down against the injector pump and I haven't been able to recover it after an hour of fishing with a magnet wand. Whats the part number a good place to buy one of these nuts?


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  #2  
Old 05-19-2009, 01:19 AM
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You are not going to be able to salvage that hard line. junk it. It will have to be replaced. Be pricy from the dealer if available. start searching through the junk yards for a set of lines. maybe $10.00

The bracket you show is not what keeps the hard lines secure. not ure what it is. there are 7 metal clamps that go between each of the 5 hard lines to keep them from vibrating. vibration is what broke yours.

the line was cracked and sucking air, which caused your rough running and nailing problems.

Charlie

I read the 300D, now I see it is a 124. maybe it has different clamps than the 617 engine.
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  #3  
Old 05-19-2009, 11:14 AM
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I was able to source my #2 hardline for my 90 in a day. I called one of my indies and he got it up here from LA quick style.
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1983 300SD 70,000 WVO Powered miles
1990 300D In driveway with Head Off - Cracked
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  #4  
Old 05-19-2009, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegStew View Post
I was able to source my #2 hardline for my 90 in a day. I called one of my indies and he got it up here from LA quick style.
Care to share the guy's contact info?
Thanks
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  #5  
Old 05-19-2009, 11:26 AM
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No problem...I think it was Todd i spoke too
Independent Mercedes Car Sales

independentmercedes.net

1849 Mount Diablo Blvd.
Walnut Creek, CA 94596
(925) 932-4001
Get directions
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1983 300SD 70,000 WVO Powered miles
1990 300D In driveway with Head Off - Cracked
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2009, 11:41 AM
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I had one break just a week a ago, this is from my post about it showing where you can get the line:
Peachparts here got me a brand new 1 with both nuts, quick for $47.50+shipping. I found the part#s in this post:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=188790
These are for 603, but I think yours are the same except no #6.
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  #7  
Old 05-19-2009, 05:31 PM
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The third picture is a bracket that holds the #1, #2 and #3 lines to the intake manifold. It uses common 6mm bolts (10mm wrench) as you'll find all over the engine.

In general you can injection lines for the same cylinder number are interchangeable between 601, 602 and 603 but it's not a direct fit between 603.96 and 603.97. There might be differences in the 602 series as well.

Here's a picture of the clips and retainers you need courtesy of Dave M/gsxr -



For a 602 I think you need one fewer two-line clamp and rubber shim.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #8  
Old 05-19-2009, 05:57 PM
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SWEET! just what I need!
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  #9  
Old 05-27-2009, 03:15 PM
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Got me a used hardline for $25 from:
SUN VALLEY MERCEDES DISMANTLERS, INC
11203 Tuxford Street
Sun Valley, California USA 91352
Phone: (818) 7680704 FAX: (818) 7680526

They shipped it UPS the same day. Installed the line. Still have a surgeing Chug and rough idle, but the rough idle is intermittent. Of course while I had the video camera out, it ran pretty smooth. The only time you really "see/hear" the engine running in the video is after an engine rev. Check out the video on youtube and let me know what you think...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QohSp4j70s
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  #10  
Old 05-27-2009, 06:56 PM
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sounds pretty normal to me.

i broke 2 lines (5 and 6) real pain to find them. the supports for the metal lines are critical, and be very careful if you ever remove the intake mani (as in to replace glows). If you get them even slightly out of alignment they will break.

is that a fan clutch i saw at the end needing replacement?
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  #11  
Old 05-28-2009, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t View Post
sounds pretty normal to me.
is that a fan clutch i saw at the end needing replacement?
Yup, having a "running hot issues". Started a thread here about it:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=252895

I also found this great thread about updating the fan and fan clutch for those interested:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=251845
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  #12  
Old 05-28-2009, 02:58 PM
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Wow that motor is so smooth compared to my 617, damn thing bucks like its in a rodeo. You can definitely hear one injector nailing though, but other than that it seems healthy.
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  #13  
Old 05-28-2009, 04:01 PM
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1987 w124 300D
 
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check the motor mounts
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  #14  
Old 05-29-2009, 10:55 AM
a2t a2t is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketboy52 View Post
Yup, having a "running hot issues". Started a thread here about it:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=252895

I also found this great thread about updating the fan and fan clutch for those interested:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=251845
yeah that last 1 is the thread i started. def use the 606 fan clutch, way cheaper. maybe you can remove it without removing rad, i couldn't (without trashing rad fins). but then again, im a novice oh yeah, new fan clutch did the trick, i still havent seen 100C again yet...

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