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1982 300 SD Compression Test
I will go to test compression of all five cylinders of my MB 1982 300SD.
I need to know if heat shield must be removed or not when attaching compression tester adapter to engine block. I already removed the injectors, heat shields and tubes from pump to injectors. Any idea about how to void diesel spillage from injection pump while testing compression? Thanks |
I'd use an old heat shield with the adapter.
Hold/tie down the engine shutoff lever so there's no fuel flow out of the pump. Sixto 87 300D |
If you have a mity-vac, hook it up to the shut off valve under hood and pull some vac, this will ensure no fuel gets delivered.
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Thanks for the great ideas.
After getting the results I will post here. I am sending all removed injectors for cleaning and necessary adjustments. I believe it will make my old car to run better. Thanks again. |
I have tried to test compression with and without the heat shields and got the same reading, so I don't think it makes much of a difference. Make sure to use new shields when the injectors come back from the shop. Holding back the "stop engine" lever also is a good idea :D..hope your numbers are good!
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Thank you for your post.
The reason because I am doing this test is because I have no idea how is my engine compression and how good or bad are my injectors performing. How much will be a good compression on a 1982 300 SD with 243K miles? I am planning to check with cold engine. |
Anything above 300 is good, 350+ is very good.
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Quote:
Test Values are with the Engine at operating Temperature: Normal Compression bar- 22-24, psi- 319-348 Lowest Compression bar- 15, psi- 218 Permissable differance between individual Cylinders, max bar 3, max psi- 44 Ceck the DIY section for how may rpm to crank and other specifics. |
You may want to adjust the valves first.
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Valve adjustment is included on my plan but I did not put it in first plan.
Really I don't know if it will make difference on compression readings. Per sure without injectors will be easier to turn the engine by hand to adjust valves. Thanks for share your thoughts. |
Correctly set valves will give you an accurate compression reading.
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Today I adjusted all valves and I found three exhaust valves gap too small.
It was less than .35 mm with cold engine. After all ten valves adjusted properly I performed the compression test with engine at room temperature. Just to have an idea the outside temperature today was around F 85. I used heat shield between adapter and cylinder block and crank the engine for a complete eight turns as suggested by Mercedes Benz manual. Here is the numbers that I got: Cylinder #1: 330 PSI Cylinder #2: 320 PSI Cylinder #3: 330 PSI Cylinder #4: 400 PSI Cylinder #5: 300 PSI As cylinder #4 gave me number higher than all others I retest it after finish cylinder #5 and I got the same reading than before; 400 PSI Then I put back in place clean and tested injectors, tubing's from IP to injectors and start bleeding air from tubing's before have it complete tighten at injector. When I start cranking my engine to bleed air my battery was week and then I let it charging to finish tomorrow. I will appreciate if someone have some observation or correction on the job performed. |
If you get an unusually hi reading on just one hole, it is likely you got some fuel in there, or maybe the valve guides are leaking a little fresh oil down onto the piston. Does'nt take much to seal up the rings and raise the reading to 400+.
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Thanks for your comment's.
About fuel in the hole I don't think it can be because I crank the engine several times without injectors before starting checking compression. It helped to clean injector seating on the block. I do believe about the oil from valve because my engine previously had some smoke. If there was oil from valve, it should not be visible at the adapter? I didn't pay attention to see if there was some oil. Anyway, your comment was great and if you have some another info to share it will be good and appreciated. |
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