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Any electrical gremlin genius's in the house?
Seem to have an interesting one here.weigh in as you see fit...
All electrical works except for drivers window,passenger rear and driver rear.For a while depending on outside temp drivers rear would work fine.No longer.All the motors are working and I have replaced both switches.I Have done continuity testing on drivers side windows and swithches. Here is the rub....With a window motor(any of them) not connected I get 12 volts at the wire terminals when switch is compressed, but When the terminals are replaced on the motor nothing works.I have tested the motors on a friends car and they all work fine.Is this a "ground" type issue? could it be the ground wire cluster behind the instrument cluster?As it gets warmer, it sure would be nice to be able to open more than one window and the sunroof.A/c is defunct at the moment.thanks in advance for any suggestions. |
#2
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There should be 12V on the terminals with the switch in the neutral position. |
#3
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compress,push...just depends on your caffeine level at this hour.With the switch in neutral I am not getting 12v...I only get that when I push(compress....use) the switch.Does this mean the new switches are bad?
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#4
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Whether it does this is not all that critical. Could be a different switch design. When you get the 12V with the switch depressed, do you get 12V on a single line or both lines? If you get it on only one line, check the other line for ground. In fact, check for 12V using one line as supply and the other line for ground. If you get 12V, then make the test again by reversing the switch to the opposite position. The 12V and ground should now switch to the opposite leads. |
#5
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Confirmed.
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#6
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Sometimes the wires inside the accordion rubber between the doors and columns get mangled over time. Try using a different ground source.
__________________
'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
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thanks Brian. |
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I would suggest you use a tail light bulb or something similar to test with. You could have 12v, but not enough current to run the motor.
For example, you could have a wire broken all the way through except for one strand, and the voltmeter will still show 12v, but that one strand of wire will not carry enough current to light a light bulb--or operate your window motor. As suggested earlier, you could also have a bad ground. |
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The problem might not be entirely electrical. I removed the below Regulator and Motor from the passanger side rear today. You could run the Window up but not down and when you pressed to go down the motor would not go at all. (What I found was that the Window Regulator Mounting Plate is bent and Regulator Gear Teeth deformed from running on an angle.)
In my case the Motor is not grounded through the through the Chassie. I tested the Motor by swapping the + and - wires from a battery to the 2 wires comming from the Motor (+) to the Green wire and (-) to the Black Wire brought the Window Down;swapping them would raise the window.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#12
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Put the connectors back on the switches. With the ignition switch in position 2 (run) and with window switch in the neutral position, you should be getting 12V at both connections on the motor. When the switch is depressed, one of the connections goes to ground completing the circuit for the motor to operate. If you have your multimeter on both connections at the motor, you should see the voltage change from 0V to +12V to 0V and to -12V as you toggle the switch. The common thread between the front and the back windows is the ground. The safety switch provides ground to the switches in the rear doors. If you don't have the hard ground, neither the front nor rear window will work. Good luck. Let us know how you do.
__________________
mjk '84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel) '84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car) '82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car) |
#13
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Does the motor work that way if you use the switch? If the motor goes one direction but not the other then you have a problem in the switch. In the console put the driver front connector on the passenger front switch and see if that makes the motor go both ways.
__________________
mjk '84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel) '84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car) '82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car) |
#14
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Did this by grounding to door, got correct voltage , without(only original wiring) i got nothing. Got good continuity on all wires testable so far.Motor goes up and down when connected to a battery directly.I am going to see if i can locate the attachment point of the ground behind the instr cluster.test it and maybe replace....more to come.been a busy week, have not had much free time.
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