|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
W123 Ball joint replacement
I need to replace the lower ball joint in my 85 300D. I have read over a lot of articles here about some of the problems one runs into, like the difficulty of removing the ball joint itself, but I have not run across a definitive DIY step by step sequence of what I need to do, start to finish.
I am replacing my discs and pads, finished the right and when I got to the left side I discovered the bad lower ball joint. I don't want to put it all back together now and take it to my indy to do, as I am so close and think I can tackle this. Can anyone describe the steps, in sequence, that I need to do to accomplish this task? I have the hub off, as well as the dust shield. I just don't want to start taking things apart that do not need to come apart, and especially don't want to damage anything in the process. Thanks for any help on this project.
__________________
85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale** 84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds 00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold) 15 Subaru Outback 43K 11 Subaru Outback 67K 98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now. 30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60 |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Removing the spindle is your best bet if you do not have the correct tools.
It can be done without removing the spindle, but the spring will still need to be compressed and installation of the new BJ will be more challenging with the spindle on the car. A rough outline: Remove the caliper Compress the spring Remove the steering arm from the bottom of the knuckle / spindle Remove the nut from the Lower BJ and use whatever means available to remove the lower control arm from the BJ. Here is where the correct tools will save time, suffering and extraneous damage to parts. Many would suggest removing the entire knuckle and bringing it somewhere, you then risk destroying the upper control arm BJ. (but it can be done w/o damage) I am sure I am missing some details, the rest is subjective. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
The FSM calls for removing the steering knuckle and knocking the ball joint out with a hammer.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
As J20 pointed out, having the correct tools makes all the difference.
Here as process in this vdeo that though is not a 123 the process is very similar. Piece of cake!
__________________
Deltacom ~ Absit Iniuria Verbis ~ |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
1981 300TD 2005 C55 2004 E500 1999 ML430 1992 400E 1998 C43 2001 SL500 1988 300SEL 1986 190E 16V 1991 190E 2.6 |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
If you haven't found a decent DIY then you haven't used the SEARCH function!
This was in the DIY section: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BallJoint Found these using the SEARCH function: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=231358&highlight=ball+joint&page=2 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=179284&highlight=ball+joints http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=225956&highlight=ball+joint&page=3 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=220450&highlight=ball+joint Lots & lots of threads on this topic. Make sure you use the proper tools. The steering knuckle has to come out. I used this on the upper control arm joint: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99849 Don't crush the nut, it has an allen keyway to hold it in place while tightening the locknut. Use a pickle fork on the ball joint. With some serious blows from a 5lb sledgehammer. I had to grind down the pickle fork because it was hitting the inside of the steering knuckle. After that it worked fine. Use a large socket to hammer it out and a AutoZone ball joint rental press to install the new one. directions are all over the archives all you have to do is look. Danny
__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I had a rough time getting the ball joint loose from the lower control - nothing works until I got a free rental pittman arm puller from O'Reilly's. Don't use a fork on the upper ball joint since it will mess up the boot and you will end up replacing the upper control arm. A screw type seperator will work without destroying the boot. Once I had the spindle loose, I took it with LBJ still attached to a machine shop to have the old one pressed out and the new pressed in. It is not an easy job even with a ball joint press - unless you have the special Mercedes tool. Good luck, Joseph |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
I took mine to a shop, one of his workers swapped it out on the car, an experienced suspension mechanic can perform the procedure. They have, or in my case, can borrow, the necessary tools.
__________________
83 SD 84 CD |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for all of this feedback and info. I did come across a number of these ariticles but a lot of the info was about the SD rather than the D. The SD looks a little more complicated. I am going to pour over this stuff while I am waiting for the ball joint to come in. I may take the steering knuckle down to a local garage to have the BJ pressed in. My biggest concern was damaging he upper BJ, but with the right tool I think I'll give it a go.
__________________
85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale** 84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds 00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold) 15 Subaru Outback 43K 11 Subaru Outback 67K 98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now. 30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60 |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
When I did mine on my D's. I took the spindle off with the balljoint and brought them to a NAPA that had a machine shop. They pressed out the old bj and pressed in the new bj, all for under $20.
I would not bother renting a BJ press. You will need a BJ separator to pop off the BJ from the ??? . Something like the OTC 7315. I do not advise using a fork. Trust me on this.
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Answer
The W123 and W126 lower ball joint replacment operation is the same.
The only variation is 1985 and later W126 have a wheel speed sensor you do NOT want to damage.. There is no reason to remove the spring for lower ball joint replacment, simply support the lower control arm, and do NOT remove the shock absorber while the knuckle is off.. Here is a thread with many good pictures you should read. Lower Ball Joint Replacement Question http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142212 Have a great day.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
I'm stumped as to what my next move should be.
OK, first of all, I am working on an '85 300D, not an SD. I have read through most all of the related posts here and this is where I am. I have the rotor and hub off, the caliper up and away, and the upper ball joint loosened so I can lower the steering knuckle away from the upper control arm. I borrowed a 3/4" ball joint remover to separate the upper ball joint. I have the lower control arm supported with a floor jack under the spring. I also have the nut removed from the lower ball joint. I want to take the steering knuckle/spindle off so I can take it to my mechanic and have the bad lower ball joint removed and the new one pressed in. I cannot get the spindle to drop down and off, as it seems that the shaft of the lower ball joint will not release from the lower control arm.
If I had a ball joint remover that was slightly larger than the 3/4" one I borrowed, it looks as though I could slip it around the ball joint shaft and push it out. Do I need to get a larger ball joint remover to do this or is there another way to release the ball joint from the lower control arm? Thanks for any help on this last step.
__________________
85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale** 84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds 00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold) 15 Subaru Outback 43K 11 Subaru Outback 67K 98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now. 30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60 |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Get a long pry bar--6-8'. Put it in a position to pry apart the ball joint and lower control arm. Then get a small sledge hammer and strike the surrounding portion of the lower control arm with it. It usually takes 3 or 4 blows. It's easier if you have a helper standing on the prybar. I have always found this pressure/shock method to be more effective than presses or pickle forks.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
Bookmarks |
|
|