Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-04-2009, 11:51 PM
RML RML is offline
Out of Garage Space
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southwest PA
Posts: 1,034
W123 Ball joint replacement

I need to replace the lower ball joint in my 85 300D. I have read over a lot of articles here about some of the problems one runs into, like the difficulty of removing the ball joint itself, but I have not run across a definitive DIY step by step sequence of what I need to do, start to finish.

I am replacing my discs and pads, finished the right and when I got to the left side I discovered the bad lower ball joint. I don't want to put it all back together now and take it to my indy to do, as I am so close and think I can tackle this. Can anyone describe the steps, in sequence, that I need to do to accomplish this task? I have the hub off, as well as the dust shield. I just don't want to start taking things apart that do not need to come apart, and especially don't want to damage anything in the process.

Thanks for any help on this project.

__________________
85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-05-2009, 12:53 AM
Registered Hack
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,642
Removing the spindle is your best bet if you do not have the correct tools.

It can be done without removing the spindle, but the spring will still need to be compressed and installation of the new BJ will be more challenging with the spindle on the car.

A rough outline:

Remove the caliper

Compress the spring

Remove the steering arm from the bottom of the knuckle / spindle

Remove the nut from the Lower BJ and use whatever means available to remove the lower control arm from the BJ. Here is where the correct tools will save time, suffering and extraneous damage to parts. Many would suggest removing the entire knuckle and bringing it somewhere, you then risk destroying the upper control arm BJ. (but it can be done w/o damage)

I am sure I am missing some details, the rest is subjective.
__________________

Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-05-2009, 08:06 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,971
The FSM calls for removing the steering knuckle and knocking the ball joint out with a hammer.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-05-2009, 08:27 AM
Deltacom's Avatar
Benzholic
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Edge of the Abyss
Posts: 335
As J20 pointed out, having the correct tools makes all the difference.
Here as process in this vdeo that though is not a 123 the process is very similar. Piece of cake!
__________________
Deltacom ~ Absit Iniuria Verbis ~
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-05-2009, 08:40 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deltacom View Post
As J20 pointed out, having the correct tools makes all the difference.
Here as process in this vdeo that though is not a 123 the process is very similar. Piece of cake!
__________________
1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-05-2009, 08:46 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deltacom View Post
Here as process in this vdeo that though is not a 123 the process is very similar.
The "similarity" might be subject to debate. For starters, there is no need to compress the spring on a W123, if the weight of the vehicle rests on the lower control arm and only the steering knuckle is to be removed. Secondly, the lower ball joint on a W123 is press fit into the steering knuckle, not the control arm. Thirdly, the W123 doesn't use a "split" attachment for the ball joint stud, so separation is not simply a matter of loosening a bolt.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-05-2009, 08:53 AM
dannym's Avatar
I'm not here
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 2,360
If you haven't found a decent DIY then you haven't used the SEARCH function!

This was in the DIY section:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BallJoint

Found these using the SEARCH function:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=231358&highlight=ball+joint&page=2

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=179284&highlight=ball+joints

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=225956&highlight=ball+joint&page=3

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=220450&highlight=ball+joint

Lots & lots of threads on this topic.
Make sure you use the proper tools.
The steering knuckle has to come out. I used this on the upper control arm joint:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99849

Don't crush the nut, it has an allen keyway to hold it in place while tightening the locknut.

Use a pickle fork on the ball joint. With some serious blows from a 5lb sledgehammer. I had to grind down the pickle fork because it was hitting the inside of the steering knuckle. After that it worked fine.

Use a large socket to hammer it out and a AutoZone ball joint rental press to install the new one.

directions are all over the archives all you have to do is look.

Danny
__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-05-2009, 09:28 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 295
Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
Removing the spindle is your best bet if you do not have the correct tools.


Remove the steering arm from the bottom of the knuckle / spindle

Remove the nut from the Lower BJ and use whatever means available to remove the lower control arm from the BJ. Here is where the correct tools will save time, suffering and extraneous damage to parts. Many would suggest removing the entire knuckle and bringing it somewhere, you then risk destroying the upper control arm BJ. (but it can be done w/o damage)
Hi

I had a rough time getting the ball joint loose from the lower control - nothing works until I got a free rental pittman arm puller from O'Reilly's.

Don't use a fork on the upper ball joint since it will mess up the boot and you will end up replacing the upper control arm. A screw type seperator will work without destroying the boot.

Once I had the spindle loose, I took it with LBJ still attached to a machine shop to have the old one pressed out and the new pressed in. It is not an easy job even with a ball joint press - unless you have the special Mercedes tool.

Good luck,

Joseph
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-05-2009, 12:20 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
I took mine to a shop, one of his workers swapped it out on the car, an experienced suspension mechanic can perform the procedure. They have, or in my case, can borrow, the necessary tools.
__________________
83 SD

84 CD
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-05-2009, 11:31 PM
RML RML is offline
Out of Garage Space
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southwest PA
Posts: 1,034
Thanks for all of this feedback and info. I did come across a number of these ariticles but a lot of the info was about the SD rather than the D. The SD looks a little more complicated. I am going to pour over this stuff while I am waiting for the ball joint to come in. I may take the steering knuckle down to a local garage to have the BJ pressed in. My biggest concern was damaging he upper BJ, but with the right tool I think I'll give it a go.
__________________
85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-05-2009, 11:45 PM
tobybul's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,077
When I did mine on my D's. I took the spindle off with the balljoint and brought them to a NAPA that had a machine shop. They pressed out the old bj and pressed in the new bj, all for under $20.

I would not bother renting a BJ press.

You will need a BJ separator to pop off the BJ from the ??? . Something like the OTC 7315. I do not advise using a fork. Trust me on this.
__________________
the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-06-2009, 12:36 AM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,416
Answer

The W123 and W126 lower ball joint replacment operation is the same.
The only variation is 1985 and later W126 have a wheel speed sensor you do NOT want to damage..

There is no reason to remove the spring for lower ball joint replacment, simply support the lower control arm, and do NOT remove the shock absorber while the knuckle is off..

Here is a thread with many good pictures you should read.

Lower Ball Joint Replacement Question
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142212




Have a great day.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-13-2009, 01:23 PM
RML RML is offline
Out of Garage Space
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southwest PA
Posts: 1,034
I'm stumped as to what my next move should be.

OK, first of all, I am working on an '85 300D, not an SD. I have read through most all of the related posts here and this is where I am. I have the rotor and hub off, the caliper up and away, and the upper ball joint loosened so I can lower the steering knuckle away from the upper control arm. I borrowed a 3/4" ball joint remover to separate the upper ball joint. I have the lower control arm supported with a floor jack under the spring. I also have the nut removed from the lower ball joint. I want to take the steering knuckle/spindle off so I can take it to my mechanic and have the bad lower ball joint removed and the new one pressed in. I cannot get the spindle to drop down and off, as it seems that the shaft of the lower ball joint will not release from the lower control arm.

If I had a ball joint remover that was slightly larger than the 3/4" one I borrowed, it looks as though I could slip it around the ball joint shaft and push it out. Do I need to get a larger ball joint remover to do this or is there another way to release the ball joint from the lower control arm?

Thanks for any help on this last step.
__________________
85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-13-2009, 05:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 295
Quote:
Originally Posted by RML View Post
OK, first of all, I am working on an '85 300D, not an SD. I have read through most all of the related posts here and this is where I am. I have the rotor and hub off, the caliper up and away, and the upper ball joint loosened so I can lower the steering knuckle away from the upper control arm. I borrowed a 3/4" ball joint remover to separate the upper ball joint. I have the lower control arm supported with a floor jack under the spring. I also have the nut removed from the lower ball joint. I want to take the steering knuckle/spindle off so I can take it to my mechanic and have the bad lower ball joint removed and the new one pressed in. I cannot get the spindle to drop down and off, as it seems that the shaft of the lower ball joint will not release from the lower control arm.

If I had a ball joint remover that was slightly larger than the 3/4" one I borrowed, it looks as though I could slip it around the ball joint shaft and push it out. Do I need to get a larger ball joint remover to do this or is there another way to release the ball joint from the lower control arm?

Thanks for any help on this last step.
Like I said above, a free rental pittman arm puller did the job for me
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-13-2009, 05:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,350
Get a long pry bar--6-8'. Put it in a position to pry apart the ball joint and lower control arm. Then get a small sledge hammer and strike the surrounding portion of the lower control arm with it. It usually takes 3 or 4 blows. It's easier if you have a helper standing on the prybar. I have always found this pressure/shock method to be more effective than presses or pickle forks.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page