Added.
Both Rear Windows theselves have continued to work OK. The exception was some malfunctioned again and I had to clean the other Switches that I had not previously cleaned. After that all worked again.

The Rear Passanger side Regulator that I reused but fixed was still a littly noisy at first but has over time quieted down and seldom makes noise.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

any ideas about the "upgrade" for the CD rear window regulators?

Care to do an upgrade for some of them for me? Ill pay if you have the info...

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I have never seen a Regulators on the CD before and I did not know it had rear Regulators.
I did it to my own with the hope that it would be the last time I would need to do it!

It too me too long to do for there to be any sort of resonable fee that I could charge. Also I made the plate from scrap metal I already had from my Garage.

It is a project for some one who has a lot of motivation and skill with tools.
A Cutting Torch or a Metal Cutting band saw would have speeded the job up alot.
I did not have either available so I just took a lot of time to do it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

i think the germans are still convinced they are the master race and so everything they do is already perfect, therefore there is no need to improve a poorly designed window regulator. mine on the rr was bent like a pretzel. priced out a new one and the rr is like $100 more than the lr! wtf?? so i used blocks of wood and my hands and feet to mash it mostly straight. cleaned out the switches and now i got 4 working windows. i don't plan to ever roll the rr all the way down though...

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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going...
fast '70 Chevelle 200k+
home built Shovelhead chopper

Besides being an offensive comment, apparently at least the CD rear regulators had an update. Problem is they are an ultra low-demand item, so they are priced pretty high, like $500 each...

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

sorry if your offended. but after working for 10 years on these cars, i ain't real fond of kraut engineers. germans are some of the nicest people i've met; never met one i didn't like. i'd still like to beat the MB engineers w/ a collapseable baton though. i think MB is an equal opportunity employer: for every genius engineer, there is also a retard engineer.

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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going...
fast '70 Chevelle 200k+
home built Shovelhead chopper

I know I am reviving a (very) old thread, but I'm currently dealing with this exact problem (1985 300D), and I thought I should also mention that the reason that a better quality part/better designed part wasnt used, is because if everything is working properly, lubed properly, etc, it will work just fine for many years.

The main problem is lack of lubrication/servicing. If someone actually took off the door panels and lubed the regulators properly once a year (hell even every five years!) they would probably still be working just fine.

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Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles
2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles
1995 S320, 207k Miles

Grabbing spares from the yard is a good strategy. Most aren't bent and any regulator from the correct model (126 into 126, 123 into 123 etc) will interchange. Regulators are door specific and the number of teeth on the motor changed over the years. Get the motor with the regulator, clean and lube the tracks and the window should work well with no slow spots.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Ive located a set of 300cd WRs on amazon new,just google it ,theyre not too expensive,for quality ,I cant speak of but Im sure about a willing participant to try something at this point ,very old car and windows Rs are important .For the 300d their much more reliable due to the lighter glass being pushed ,the motors arent usually the failing factor ,the wear is the torqueing and like you say not enough grease will start to bend and weaken the rugulators ,really good window motors in these cars!
Edit ,thats gone ,nooooo! cant find them on the site anymore ,should have bought the set.

I don't think it was lack of lubrication that bent my Rear Regulators. I think it was heavy handed use of the switches not turning them off with the Windows reached the top and over time bending the frame of the regulators.
But, of couse they should be well lubricated.

There also must be a diesign issue because my 1982 Volvo Diesel has had no issues with the Window Regulators and I

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I should mention that in the end, I ended up using W210 rear window regulators on the W123 Sedan (customer's car). Was a little bit difficult adapting the "sliding jaw" to hold onto the W123 window glass, and I needed to drill a few holes, as well as converting the W210 "smart" window motor (Pinch control) over to a non-pinch control motor.

Then I just very carefully aligned the regulator (tight fit) and riveted it into place. It's been working great for several months now. The best part?? It only cost about $20!!

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Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles
2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles
1995 S320, 207k Miles

So ;

How is your rather clever (IMO) repair working ? .

I tried un bending some regulators and of course, fixing the guides etc. so the glass slid up and down very easily but the pot metal bent again in less than a year so I hunted up some unbent originals and have been happy since .

I really like the simple idea of epoxying a gusset plate, the simplest ideas are often the best ones .

A few years back I chanced upon a 1984 300CD and was surprised to find it had both rear window lifts replaced with the dealer redesigned ones, the driver's side one had bent again ~ I bet they just slapped them in without doing the rest of the job, if the glass don't slide up & down easily the repair will never last .

On my brother's 1981 W126 when the passenger side lift died on a Sunday I was able to find a dealer replacement one made of stamped steel ~ that was a surprise, it's still in the car and working O.K. .

You're correct, the primary damage is from over torquing by holding the window switch too long .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Excellent job 911. Those early MB regulators were junk which is why the previous owner of my 84 wagon pulled all of them out and installed roll up windows. My 85 sedan has 2 rotten rear seat regulators which we live with because they are rarely used and I have already replaced the fronts but if/when they go I will replace them with manuals which so far seem to work smoothly and easily.
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Dorman makes the front regulators. Don't know if they are manual or power.

When I posted this thread a new Rear Power Regulator was around $125 each and no one was interested in this thread. When I looked like 4 years ago they had gone up to $350 each.

For the rear power window regulators there is another thread where you can modify a W124 or W126 rear regulator. But I can't remember which chassis.

My Wife was hit an run right a crossed the rear right door. I replaced the Door with a used one and fortunately it had a good regulator in it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel