Dash is out, what should I replace? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jasonleefreeman · #1 06-14-2009, 10:08 PM

This started as a quick re-paint, now it's a major project (to me anyway). I found a parts car with almost a perfect blue interior so while the dash is out to be replaced, the heater core is getting replaced too. I got the parts car for the same $$ I'll pay for the heater core. It runs, but poorly, and is badly rusted but the interior is what I needed.

Questions:

1. What else should I consider replacing while the dash and heater box is out?
2. Anyone have experience with or have any suggestions for fixing or replacing the material that is cracking and coming off of the firewall (presumably a sound/heat insulation)?

I'll try to keep documenting the project as is progresses. Sorry if this is posted in the wrong spot, I almost put it in interior and detailing.

Thanks for the help.
Jason

mike-81-240d · #2 06-14-2009, 10:15 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-W123-123-W-Dash-Cover-230-240D-280CE-300CD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1205Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293 Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem334c597952QQitemZ220324264274QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5 fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2980wt_1182

lietuviai · #3 06-14-2009, 10:18 PM

Dash vent vacuum pods.

shadetreemechan · #4 06-14-2009, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lietuviai

Dash vent vacuum pods.

Ditto

jasonleefreeman · #5 06-14-2009, 11:29 PM

I see a couple different elements available online. Is there more than one style of element needed? All three of the elements on the heater box have the same part# in my car. Thanks again.

dieseldan44 · #6 06-14-2009, 11:59 PM

Jason,

I can help you on this one. Search under my name and 'dash' using advanced search. I went through the same process.

Here are the highlights:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=211235&highlight=dash

- *rebuild the vacuum pods*. You can order kits to rebuild the pods for around $8 from a fellow named George Murphy. do a search on his name. I forget his company name - they are in the Southeast.

EDIT: George Murphy's Info
George Murphy
Performance Analysis Co.
1345 Oak Ridge Turnpike, PMB 258
Oak Ridge, TN 37830

PS I do not think you can buy the rebuild kits through the parts distributor that runs this site. I think the above business is the only source for them.

- put in new front speakers, if you want them. its soooo much easier with the dash off.
- replace the A/C evaporator if its faulty, or suspect. maybe have it pressure tested or leak checked?
- I completely disassembled and cleaned my heater box. so much dirt came out. the air from the climate control now smells fresh and clean like a new car.
- rip out the dash insulation and replace it. I used Damplifier Pro:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php

You need a little less than a 'trunk pack' - 20 sq. feet. You will need the roller tool they sell and some patience to get it all in there. I am sure the other brands of Dynamatish stuff only really differ in price as long as the thickness is the same. FWIW I was very happy with the damplifier and the difference it made in road noise. I also placed it along the trans tunnel. While you have the seats out, use a heat gun and replace ALL the sound deadener and look for rust that may be lurking underneath it.

- replace every rubber vacuum line in sight. I also replaced the vacuum manifold that goes in the ACC pod
- I pulled my cluster gauges apart, painted the needles, and cleaned everything. replaced the bulbs, etc.
- clean and put dielectric grease on all the ground and electrical connections near the steering column

Good luck. If you need pics or details, give me a shout! Its a long process, but kind of fun and rewarding to have the functions acting like new.

dd

Cr from Texas · #7 06-15-2009, 09:48 PM

No additional suggestions, but I've got a couple of questions since I am also wanting to do a first class repaint on my 123.

Were you able to remove the drip rail mouldings so that they could be reinstalled? If so, how?

The doors are not in the picture. I assume you removed the chrome trim that frames the windows. Looks like you have to remove the window track gaskets to do this. Can the be reinstalled or did you buy all new?

Cr from Texas · #8 06-15-2009, 09:50 PM

One more question. When you reassemble, what goes in first - the dash or the windshield?

jasonleefreeman · #9 06-15-2009, 10:47 PM

I used a hammer and piece of softwood, a 2x4 to be exact, and tapped the moulding up and off of the drip rail. Rotate and flip the 2x4 block to keep a sharp edge otherwise it will just slip when you tap it. I started at the back and worked to the front. There was no damage to the moulding, I assume it will go back on but I'll have to make a block that will "v" over the rubber part to tap back down onto the body. I have a parts car that I can demonstrate on if my description isn't clear.

The doors are off of the car yes, but I have not touched the window frame or the window channel gasket. I can't see how to get the gasket out without taking the glass out and I just haven't gotten that far. The window frame looks like it would be easy to damage so I had considered leaving it alone. It looks like it would mask pretty well and I haven't been able to find a replacement for the window channel gaskets. With a parts car now, I may try to take one of the frames off of it and see how it goes.

Jason

Cr from Texas · #10 06-16-2009, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonleefreeman

I used a hammer and piece of softwood, a 2x4 to be exact, and tapped the moulding up and off of the drip rail. Rotate and flip the 2x4 block to keep a sharp edge otherwise it will just slip when you tap it. I started at the back and worked to the front. There was no damage to the moulding, I assume it will go back on but I'll have to make a block that will "v" over the rubber part to tap back down onto the body. I have a parts car that I can demonstrate on if my description isn't clear.

The doors are off of the car yes, but I have not touched the window frame or the window channel gasket. I can't see how to get the gasket out without taking the glass out and I just haven't gotten that far. The window frame looks like it would be easy to damage so I had considered leaving it alone. It looks like it would mask pretty well and I haven't been able to find a replacement for the window channel gaskets. With a parts car now, I may try to take one of the frames off of it and see how it goes.

Jason

Thanks. For comparison, I have taken the drip rail off a parts car but I started at the front using the same method of soft wood. As you know, it is a three piece part with two chrome pieces and one rubber piece. Before I got to the seam between the two chrome pieces, the front piece popped off and lifted the rubber loose from the back piece, then I had trouble getting the back piece off. I have visions of the new paint chipping when I force this trim back on.

The window trim comes off easily if the channel is out, but I have the same concerns as you. My trim is badly fogged. I'm thinking of painting all of the trip around the windows and that part of the door frame black. That's the newer look and would solve my fog problem.

Please keep this thread updated as you proceed. I've subscribed.

Thanks

unkl300d · #11 06-16-2009, 08:49 PM

"The doors are off of the car yes, but I have not touched the window frame or the window channel gasket. I can't see how to get the gasket out without taking the glass out and I just haven't gotten that far. "

Yeah, unbolt the glass from the window regulator and allow the glass to drop
beneath the bottom of the window frame.
This gives access to remove the gasket.
It lifts up. The outside chrome molding comes off with a wood popsickle stick.
Pry it carefully.
all can be reused.
might as well buy new gaskets if the old ones are bad.
The new ones sometimes have to be trimmed. so match the new one with the old and do one at a time so as not to mix them up.

Look forward to your developing thread !

How's your blower motor?
Maybe time to take it apart and replace the brushes etc.

Cr from Texas · #12 06-16-2009, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unkl300d

"The doors are off of the car yes, but I have not touched the window frame or the window channel gasket. I can't see how to get the gasket out without taking the glass out and I just haven't gotten that far. "

Yeah, unbolt the glass from the window regulator and allow the glass to drop
beneath the bottom of the window frame.
This gives access to remove the gasket.
It lifts up. The outside chrome molding comes off with a wood popsickle stick.
Pry it carefully.
all can be reused.
might as well buy new gaskets if the old ones are bad.
The new ones sometimes have to be trimmed. so match the new one with the old and do one at a time so as not to mix them up.

Look forward to your developing thread !

How's your blower motor?
Maybe time to take it apart and replace the brushes etc.

Thanks for the help. I did try this on a parts car and seemed like the gasket was glued in place. Is that typical?

derburger · #13 06-16-2009, 11:56 PM

I would clean the evaporator or upgrade it to a parallel flow version, rebuild the vent pods (I've gotten the rebuild kits from George Murphy and they work well)

Perhaps you could add some Dynamat or other sound deadening/insulation material?

jasonleefreeman · #14 06-16-2009, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

Thanks. For comparison, I have taken the drip rail off a parts car but I started at the front using the same method of soft wood. As you know, it is a three piece part with two chrome pieces and one rubber piece. Before I got to the seam between the two chrome pieces, the front piece popped off and lifted the rubber loose from the back piece, then I had trouble getting the back piece off. I have visions of the new paint chipping when I force this trim back on.

The window trim comes off easily if the channel is out, but I have the same concerns as you. My trim is badly fogged. I'm thinking of painting all of the trip around the windows and that part of the door frame black. That's the newer look and would solve my fog problem.

Please keep this thread updated as you proceed. I've subscribed.

Thanks

I got it all off in one piece, then laid it aside carefully. I hadn't thought of the paint chipping when it goes back on, I think I'll try going on and off of the parts car a couple times to see what happens. I am waiting on parts right now. The next thing to go in will be the new floor insulation, I got the damplifier stuff from second skin as suggested by diesel dan. The heater core shipped today. I forgot to answer your question about the dash/windshield installation order. I am not sure but it looks to me like the dash would go in first, it was actually very easy to remove with the windshield out, going back in should be easy too.

jasonleefreeman · #15 06-17-2009, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derburger

I would clean the evaporator or upgrade it to a parallel flow version, rebuild the vent pods (I've gotten the rebuild kits from George Murphy and they work well)

Perhaps you could add some Dynamat or other sound deadening/insulation material?

Just when I decide not to touch the AC evap core, someone else suggests replacing or cleaning. Now I feel guilty for leaving it alone. I am adding some sound deadening material where the old stuff was crumbling out and probably elsewhere as well. I checked all of the vacuum pods with vacuum (me sucking on a hose to be precise), and they all hold as long as I don't let go. Should I replace them anyway? Maybe I shouldn't ask. Thanks for the suggestions, I promise to seriously reconsider the evaporator.