My AC compressor fell off on the highway last year, Or I should say the bolts fell out, compressor was left hanging by the lines. The AC worked when I got the car, then it didnt then I recharged it worked for a while then it quit again. I assume the freon leaked out due to the compressor being loose.

I plan to get the AC going again, the system has been open since last year. I would like to just replace the expansion valve and dryer and use the old compressor which was fine before it came unbolted. I bought the correct set of hardware tday at the PNP, what was on there was a mismatch of incorrect bolts. the system is 134 converted already. so what should I do to get it running again besides the 2 new parts? do you think the compressor will be OK? how can I clean it and reoil it? any help will be appreciated.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Hey man, beautiful 300CD you have. Check out this page over on dieselgiant: http://dieselgiant.com/repairyourac.htm

It'll walk you through cleaning the lines and oiling the compressor and all that fun stuff. Hope it helps!

-Nick

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http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...73378_30-1.jpg

Looks like someone who worked on the car didnt tighten them enough or didnt use blue locktite. Mines been on the car for over 30 plus years and hasnt fall off yet..

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

I have a pretty good idea the guy working on the car was not the best. When I bought it I noticed a lot of bad work that the PO had reciepts for, the indy he had was scary. in this case the spacers were missing and the bolts were grade 8 yellow bolts from home depot, and by the way appearently only 2 were needed. one of which was desperately hanging on the compressor as it swayed below the engine at 60 or so.

I looked at the diesel giant write up but I dont want to give all of the info they wanted for the freeze 12 test. I was just going to use the 12oz cans of 134 from Advance

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

DON'T USE FREEZE 12 or any of the other junk refrigerants. If you refuse to use R12 as it was designed, then use R134a.

It is a really bad thing that the system was open for a year. The BEST thing to do would be to thoroughly flush all lines, put the compressor back in place and flush it with a little Mineral oil and the pump out as much as you can get. Mount the compressor and then vacuum check. If it will hold a vacuum for an hour or two, then replace the filter/dryer, distribute 8 oz. of mineral oil around the system, evacuate and charge with R12.

If you STILL insist on staying with R134a, the process is exactly the same since the system has been open for a year. The only difference is that the 8 ounces of oil should be Ester oil and of course the different refrigerant.

ALL of the junk refrigerants fall into one of two categories. They are either a blend or flammable. I hope I don't have to explain why a flammable is a bad thing. The blends have multiple components that leak at different rates. Once you have a leak, the only way to get the blend correct again is to completely empty the system (illegal without recycle equipment specifically for that particular junk refrigerant) and then evacuate and recharge.

Also it is illegal to charge with ANY alternative refrigerant without labeling and using the appropriate fittings.

darn it, I already bough freeze 12 from Ebay because I was looking at the giesel giant website and was just going to follow that. whats the issue with freeze 12? I planned to flush the lines although I cant seem to find a flush gun, and I also bought ester oil at PeP Boys for the flush and fill

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Isn't Freeze-12 the stuff that is mostly 134a? If you're going to use that and flush the oil, you could just as easily use pure 134a and not have the big problem that comes with using any blend.

That problem is, you cannot top off the system. If you lose some, you must recover all of the charge and start again. Blends lose components at different rates, and topping up the system screws with the mix.

To run a system like that, you will find yourself doing one of three things.

1: Find a shop that will recover Freeze-12 when you need to recharge. Good luck with that one.

2: Invest in recovery equipment and tanks, and be prepared to send a tank off with a payment to recycle the leftover junk. That's doable, but expensive. You might as well buy equipment and use it with R12 for the same money, but no recycling fees.

3: Dump the charge into the atmosphere when you need to recharge. I suspect that this is what most junk refrigerant users do.

For our cars that were designed to run on R12, 134a is THE junk refrigerant. Ever notice how you R12 system worked fine for years -only requiring a periodic
recharge and then once you "converted" it to 134A the compressor craps out, hoses start leaking, condenser clogs up, etc.

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'83 SD, 2x '85 SD
You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts.

I agree. Stick with R12, be cool and be happy.

I've called about 8 shops in my area and all of them insist that they don't have R12 and that no one else could possibly have it (and not in the nice part of town either). I don't want to convert, so is freeze 12 my next best option?

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85 300D 180k

"Don't want to convert" and "Freeze-12" don't belong in the same sentence.

If you're going to do all your own AC work, you will need recovery equipment. You can dedicate the recovery equipment to whatever refrigerant you desire, and R12 is an option. So would be Freeze-12.

Call those same 8 shops and ask if they will recover Freeze-12 before you put any of that stuff in your system. They will tell you the same thing: no shop will deal with that stuff for you. You will have to buy your own recovery equipment to service your system. If you're going to do that, why not just dedicate that equipment to R12 rather than a blend?

Getting rid of used Freeze-12 is going to be a problem. You will have to pay to ship a cylinder to a recycling plant, and pay to recycle the refrigerant. On the other hand, if you ship them a cylinder of used R12, they will probably pay you.

For $15 and a couple of hours of your time, you can become certified to buy R-12 yourself. It's shockingly easy.

http://www.macsw.org/AM/Template.cfm?Section=How_to_Comply_with_Section_609&Template=/CM/HTMLDisplay.cfm&ContentID=5298

tango fox is onto your answer here. R12 is readily available following his advice.

To the poster that said the 134 IS the junk refrigerant in an R12 system, my hat is off to you. The only reason I go along with 134 as a LAST RESORT, is that it is the only practical alternative, I didn't say it was a good alternative, but a workable one if push comes to shove.