Timing the IP o 24 BTDC and drip method
 

i havnt checked my ip timing nor do i kno how to... i have been reading threads but i can really sit on here for hours at a time (tho id really like to) and read a bunch of old threads and piece together info on how to time the ip...



does the ip hav timing marks or numbers on it? if so where are they?

how do i adjust the timing? one thread i was reading it sounded like moving the ip sets the timing?

is seting the timing to 24 btdc the same as doing the drip method at 1 drip per second? or are they different?

if they are the same can i just try the drip method to see how many drips im at before moving the pump?

That is the general ideal. You drip test to find out if the pump is still timed properly. The only number of signifigance is the one on the engine damper pulley at the bottom.

Since the crank with the damper pulley turns twice for every revolution of the injection pump. The cam marks should be pretty close during this procedure.

On your 1985 there is also a simpler method where there is a port on the pump to insert a tool. You have to read up but basically you can accuratly time or check your timing without the use of the drip method. Actually more straight forward.

No Timing Marks on the IP.

Loosening the IP retaining bolts both rear and front allows you to rotate the IP and that changes the timing.

The Piston has to be on the compression stroke and the 24 btdc on the Crank Shaft Damper lined up with the pointer.
Disconnect the Vacuum Hose from the Shutoff and the Throttle has to be in full fue positon (if you wire or tie it down besure to put a not on the Steering wheel that it is tied down so you do not start the Engine like that).
Completely remove the Injector Hard lines to make the IP easier to turn. While some one is pumping on the Hand Primer to keep up the pressure you slowly rotate the IP until you get that 1 drip per second.

Caution I summarized the timing proceedure; you really should take some time and do some reading. Drip timing can be frustrating if you do not do it exactly right.
If you do not want to read through a lot of threads you are making a good case for buying the CD Service Manual set.

On the '85, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to attempt to drip time it. Rent one of the A-B lights and get it timed to within 1/2 degree in about 15 minutes.

hey thanks for the help guys... so whats this a-b light? and where do i insert the pin to check timing? do i insert the pin and check the dampner to see where the timing is at? and do i need a special pin or can i do it with a screwdriver or somthing? i really want to check this out so i kno my motor is in TIP TOP before i start trying to performance tune it.

Actually, there are. It would be tough to install a pump without them.

please elaborate about this port on the 85's ip and this timing device

His question concerned the Drip Timing the IP not installing the IP into the Engine after it has been removed.
There is no Exterior marks that Bosch puts on that you can see with the IP on the Engine.
Prior owners may have chiseled or otherwise marked the IP flange and Engine with a referance mark themselves.

Adjusting the IP timing often does require the removal of the pump, due to the limited adjustment range.

I have not timed one of these pumps so allow. Read a little in the archives where the damper should be set. There is a description of the location of the timing port as well. I would search for 1985 injection pump threads.

With a mirror look for the internal item to be centered in the opening. Also make sure that the number one cylinders cam lobes are pointing upward. This you can see through the oil cap hole I think. If they are pointing downward rotate the crankshaft one more revolution to the mark on the damaper.

That said the a=b tool is more accurate if you can locate one. It basically works by sensing the position of the bar in the port and uses lights to indicate if it needs correction. You rotate the pump until corrected if required.

They are on the rental program otherwise probably might be difficult to locate one. There also is a far cheaper locking device. I guess you would rotate the pump until it would lock on observing if you are near with a mirror. Again I have not done either approach.. I think the locking tool was designed more for injection pump installation but should work.

If the above happend to me I would be looking for the reason why I was not able to time the IP within the range of the slots; I would think there was something wrong.
If the IP was installed properly when the Engine was built and no one has pulled it out and re-installed it improperly; the only thing that I can think of that could cause the IP to not have enough range of movement to re-time it propberly would be if the Timing Chain/Timing gears were worn and stretched badly and no one installed the proper Offset Key to compensate for that.
If the above were the case the solution for me would be to install the proper Offset Key or put in a New Timing Chain and related components. I would not pull the IP out as you suggested except as a Temp Measure of if I thought the Car was not worth the trouble.

As a second thought if the Aluminum in the slots is mushed over inside of the slots that can also prevent you from moving the IP in the full Range.

ok im starting to get a little confused with this thread..... i want to make sure the pump is in time... i really want to know more about this hole that i can lock the ip with somthing that goes in it. when the ip is locked with whatever it is that goes in the hole and the crank dampener is at 24 degrees would that mean that the pump is timed properly?

right now there is a mark sombody made by the underneath of the IP body to a mounting bolt hole toward the front of the motor as if they marked it for some reason. and the lines are right on with each other, i dunno if a previous owner checked it or timed it but i would like to make sure for myself.

but like i said first i want to see where the timing is at before i adjust anything, and it sounds to me (correct me if im wrong) that if i put somthing in the hole to lock it in place and check the crank dampner then thats where its set at rightnow.

I have not used the IP Timing Pin to time an IP that is already on the Engine before so I will not comment other than to show some pics for information purposes.

This is the Timing Pin
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...esel911/zq.jpg

This is where it goes after the plug is removed.
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...sel911/ZQ1.jpg

ok cool that helps alot... so i crank the engine with a breaker bar til the pin slips in then whatever it says on the dampner once the pin slips in is what my pump is timed at?

The problem is that the pin doesn't "slip in". It's got a slot that's about the width of a screwdriver and, if it's not perfectly aligned with the notch, it goes right on past.

I gave up with that tool........$60. down the tubes.