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#1
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Coolant fan turns both ways?
I was changing my belt tonight and noticed that when I moved the fan it moves in both ways even with the belt tight as hell. Why would the fan move in both directions. Wouldn't you want the fan only to turn in one direction? I'm thinking that something is broken, what should I be looking at. This is the fan with the belt on it, not the electrical fan.
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Professional greasecar installer Austin TX 98 Jetta TDI with grease car kit + veg-therm (totaled) 87 MB 300SDL running on B99 / greasecar kit + 30 fphe www.austingreaseguys.com |
#2
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It's on a clutch so it turns both ways until the clutch kicks in. It's acting as designed.
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#3
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lets hope that belt isn't "tight as hell".
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#4
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Really the coolant fan powered by the belt has an inside clutch that turns when the wheel turns or the belt turns. Because I was able to put a shop towel on the fan when the car was idling and it came to a complete stop. Can you explain to me how this clutch system works?
Thanks
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Professional greasecar installer Austin TX 98 Jetta TDI with grease car kit + veg-therm (totaled) 87 MB 300SDL running on B99 / greasecar kit + 30 fphe www.austingreaseguys.com |
#5
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Woahh woahh, loosen that belt before you drive it.
The fan clutch is a pretty simply device. It allows the fan to freewheel until the engine is up to temp. Heated air coming through the radiator warms the fins on the clutch and the fluid inside and "locks" the clutch, engauging the fan. Clutched fans have three main purposes: - To speed up the engines warm up time. - To better control proper running temperature. - To allow more airflow through the radiator at highway speeds. (At highway speeds, the air flowing naturally through the radiator is more than a fan could ever move.) A cold engine will let the fan freewheel, and a hot engine will have the fan clutch engauged. To do a simple test: Drive the car until it is up to temp, drive it for another 10 minutes or so to be sure the clutch is heated up. If you just idle it the clutch won't heat up nicely because of the low airflow at idle. Turn the engine off and try to rotate the fan, if there is a lot of resistance, the clutch is OK. If it freewheels or is easily turned then you're ready for a new clutch. A good working fan clutch will never "lock" when it is at operating temperature, you can usually turn it by hand, but it will give a LOT of resistance. Hope this helps! |
#6
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Yeah no kidding, why woud you put the belt "tight as hell".....that puts a ton of strain and wear on the belt, bearings, pulleys, etc...loosen it up! I run mine just tight enough that they don't squeal (pretty loose)....far less strain on the equipment.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#7
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If hes talking about the mercedes car in his signature then it will have the OM603 engine which has automatic belt tensioning, I doubt he really means 'tight as hell', more like 'tight enough'.
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1991 W124 250D - 130k Miles |
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