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got rear ended, need advice
Earlier today I was rear ended in my 240. I slowed down because the car in front of me had abruptly slowed to turn into a gas station. I was then rear ended by the driver of a dodge dakota who was not paying attention. He was then rear ended by a suburban. I'm not sure how fast the dakota was going, he tried to swerve to miss me but couldn't get out of the way in time. The right rear of the 240 took the hit from the dakota.
I have not got any estimates yet but I would guess its in the neighborhood of $3-4k to repair the car. It would need a new tail light, new rear panel, new trunk lid, and straightening of the quarter panel. Little info on the car: its an 82 240d body (240k mi) with a 617 turbo from a w126 (160k mi). The car is 98% rust free (two small bubbles about the size of a pencil eracer, and some rust under the front bumper side rubber pieces) The interior is in decent shape, typical dash and driver seat cracks. Everything on the car works 100%. The engine has zero blowby and is VERY strong. Anyone have any advice for me on dealing with the insurance co? I am fully expectiong them to tell me the car is worth nothing and offer me something like $1k and totaling it. This is unacceptable to me but I am wondering what kind of realistic prices I should expect to get for this car? Any advice would be appreciated! I have attached a cell phone pic of the car at the accident scene. |
#2
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I'm going through a similar situation with my pickup truck right now. It was parked in my fathers condo. parking lot (we were having lunch) and a drunk driver smashed into the back of the truck. $5,000 damage. He was an uninsured motorist because he had received a DUI back in March and his Ins. Co. dropped him. So, my insurance co. has to pay for all the damage and I have to pay the friggin deductable. My insurance co. came back telling me they were going to total it. I said no way! This is unacceptable. I put a lot of time and effort finding this truck and it was in perfect "hop in and Drive to Alaska" condition. That was over a week ago. The truck is in the shop now getting fixed.
Don't let the insurance co. bully you around. If they are unwilling to work with you see if you can make a deal to buy the car back with some money involved to do the repairs. I was ready to do this but I got lucky and did not have to fight. That really sucks man. I feel your pain. Be sure you contact the other parties insurance co. personally, get a claim # to get things rolling and then give the info. to your insurance co. (names, phone #'s, claim #, etc...) so everything goes smoothly. Hopefully it will all work out for the best.
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AJ 1985 300D (SOLD) |
#3
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Happened to me as well, NYS insurance, no fault (hit & run).
Detail it before you get your estimate. Modifications like the 617 don't count. NADA value: http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1982&m=1115&d=4206&c=14&vi=76707&da=-1 My 240D took a harder hit, trunk lid folded, dented back panel, right tail light punched into trunk, quarterpanel around right taillight dented a bit. box sections in the bottom of the trunk mashed for the last 2". $3-4k was the quote for a rear clip, trunk lid & paint. (cut the back off, weld on the back of another car). Junkyard & adjuster may have no idea that rear clip from 240D and 300D are the same. I was valued at $1800 with: DMV thought it was 85 (greymarket) existing dents in both 1/4 panels tired paint, interior, cracked dash dash guts hanging out, messy car. no rust. I don't see anything that you can't fix with a trunk lid, a puller, bondo & paint. Getting the sill plate on the back edge of the trunk right will be hardest part. Get a few estimates, document value, politely reject & rebut lowballs. Find comparable cars, (240D that is actually clean, good motor, picture with blue moon & flying pig in background) & document value. I took the money (1850-500-100 salvage) I bought: 77 300D some rust, sharp interior, bad motor, for replacement trunk lid (project list) ($500) Neighbor (20+ years in body) & son worked the back over w/ hammers so trunk shut & tail light fit, shape ok for bondo ($100). 616 motor, 240D trunk lid & rear clip, a little rust but clean enough to get parts me & neighbor need to repair (project list) ($350) I should have bought an 83 300D, some rust, rough interior, spooky klima & electronics, good runner, 2 tank grease kit. Coulda had it for probably $750. Balance to food & shelter. If you're inclined, the curious will follow your story here.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there? Last edited by moon161; 07-06-2009 at 08:37 AM. |
#4
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2nd the detail befor ethe estimate. A well taken care of car will be a better support for the arguement that you plan to keep this car forever
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#5
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Bummer about being rear-ended. It's happened to me too...several times. Always a hassle.
My only word of advice is that if the insurance company agrees to fix the car...take it to who they recommend. That way, you will get a life-time warranty on the repairs. If the clear coat starts fading after several years, or anything else, they are bound to "fix it right". Warranty lasts for as long as you own the car. If you take the car to who you choose, then you don't get that guaranty. If the repairs are not done correctly, it is between you and the repair shop. The insurance company is no longer involved. I've learned this lesson the hard way. From now on, my car goes to who the insurance company recommends. Good luck getting back on the road.
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-Steven --- 1959 190b, totalled 1968 220D, sold 1969 230/8, sold 1980 240D manual, gave away at 300k (stupid me) 1985 190D 2.2 manual, gave away to a youngster 1989 300CE, sold when I retired - major regrets |
#6
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My brother's 300D was impacted in a similar (if not worse) way in its past....the previous owner just pounded it back out fairly well, and it looks decent. Its been years and it drives fine. My dad got hit a lot worse than that in his 300SD and a shop was able to fix it up pretty well for about $650. $3-4k might be a bit high.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#7
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I'd try to get as much out of the insurance company as possible, continue driving the car in the meantime, buy the car back from the insurance company and look for another 123 with a bad engine into which I could swap the engine from the wrecked one. Or, I'd fix the taillight and just keep driving it.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#8
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I wouldn't really call it "wrecked"....personally I'd probably just pound the dent back out, fix the light, and drive.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#9
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Sorry to hear about your wreck.
1. Do not allow the car to be towed anywhere but your house, keep it totally under your control. 2. Regardless of what the insurance company may tell you, you do not have to settle with them until you get what you want. You are holding all the cards--the title is in your name and the car can't go anywhere until you allow it. Tell them in no uncertain terms that the car is yours, and you intend to keep it and repair it and then tell them how much you will accept to settle. (Some people believe that the insurance company can "total" the car and that you have to give them the title--this is simply not true) Tell the adjuster this before they come to look at the car. 3. Keep the car in your yard and if they want to play hardball, simply refuse their offers and keep reminding them of your bottom line until they come around. The matter is not settled until you cash their check. The last car accident I had the insurance adjuster called and wanted to come look at the car. I told him he was welcome to, but I already had decided what it was going to take to fix it and that I was keeping the car and they would be writing the check to me, not a body shop. After a couple days they realized I was not going to back down and offered me about $100 less than my figure, I told them send me a check. Based on the pictures and your description of the cars condition, you should be able to get enough to fix your car easily, or keep it for parts and buy a nice 300d. Good Luck |
#10
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Thanks all for the advice. I am most appreciative.
I only had time to take the car to the MB dealer body shop today (they were open later than the indi shops I called). They couldnt give me a quote on the spot due to parts availability. He was going to do some research and call me back with a real quote. I have appointments with a couple indi body shops tomorrow so I will see how that goes. I have not been able to contact the insurance co of the driver who hit me yet. Because more than two cars were involved the city posts the insurance info of all parties on their website but the info is not updated yet. I am going to the police station tomorrow to try and obtain the info. Sorry this isnt much of an update, I will keep everyone posted on what happens though. thanks! |
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