Hi all. Sorry to ask a newbie question on my first post. I have a chance to buy a 1982 300CDT in pretty good shape. They guy is asking $1400 but I think I can get him to $1000. It has 206k on it and the body is rust free except for 2 spots on the jacking tubes(?) on the passenger side. These are thin and will need to have some work done. Other than that, the body is primo.

The motor is pretty loud but started right up. Some blue smoke while running but not noticable while looking in the rear view mirror. Trans shifts firmly, but not at what I would call the normal shifting points. Vacuum? Good brakes and steering with no unusual noises.

I know it isn't economically a good idea to put much money into these, but I am a softy. I have wanted a coupe for quite some time and this opportunity just popped up. I would really appreciate your thoughts on this car. I am a fair shade tree mechanic, but not a lot of diesel experience. I used to own a rabbit diesel and a Peugeot station wagon, of all things. Thanks in advance for your replies. :-)

Welcome to the board.

What part of the country are you in? Are you SURE that the jack points are the only rust? That's the one potential problem that would be a deal killer for me. Mechanical issues are easy to fix. Rust can easily be the death knell - the difference between a car that is salvageable and a rolling parts bin...

__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Check for rust under/behind the battery, in the pockets the hood hinges drop into, bottom of doors, rocker panels, pull up the rear floor mats and look under there, in the trunk side wells . . .

If you can get under it, check the belly pan, tap it and see if it sounds hollow but firm, or is it a dull thunk (rust) while your under there check for leaks, flex disks on the driveshaft, rear axle boots . . .

If it has no more rust BUY it!

Oh, and WELCOME to the forum too! Lots to read here!

Here is a recent link on CD's http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=256273

Welcome. You have honed in on a nice model of Mercedes, we just need to adjust a bit of terminology.....

{all done in fun}

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

I'll agree that rust is a major issue, post pics if you can.
All '82 and newer 123 300 CD's were turbo, (JimmyL is Mr. technical) the last T, but feel free to use whatever makes you happy.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

I live in Utah. We have salty roads but way less rust issues than back east. I'll go take another look at it today. I think I'll take my ramps so as to take a gander underneath, as well. I realise this car will need quite a bit of work, and maybe I have my rose colored glasses on, but I am really tempted. I'll post pics as soon as I get back and figure out how. I agree that rust is the main enemy here and I'll determine how much there is today. I also forgot to run the A/C, heater and switches yesterday. The car is currently registered and the owner's daily driver at the moment. He also owns another Mercedes and a BMW.

Sounds like you know what you're looking for. Check all the places Shawn mentioned and any place else you can. If it doesn't have a case of ferrous oxide cancer (rust), $1000-$1400 is a good price for a turbo coupe - even one that has some other cosmetic and/or mechanical issues...

__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Here are a few pics of what rust I can find. I'll take a second look this afternoon. Hope this works.

I spy Silver Blue metallic paint on navy interior.

Those pics are telltale signs that chances are there's additional rust in other areas sight unseen. Those two spots aren't just limited to the holes... looks like it's spreading already. Search everywhere like suggested in previous posts.

__________________
My Mercedes-Benz Homepage and W123 Owners Photo Gallery and W111/W112 Coupes & Convs Gallery
2005 Northeast GTG and 2005 Mid-Atlantic GTG and Summer '09 Central FL GTG on YouTube

Assuming that is the only rust I can find...are these particularily difficult areas to repair correctly? I looked at the trunk yesterday and it is clean. I'll take another look at the battery box, rockers and other places mentioned in a couple of hours. Thanks again.

Ooooo yikes, that rust is deeper than you think.

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

If you can, pull the inner plastic splash shield and look back behind the front fender. there will be the end of the rocker. you might be surprised to the amount of rust there.

Look at where the rear wheel arch meets the quarter panel at the lower edge and goes under the trunk area. there is a seam where the quarter panel folds under and is spot welded. there can be some significant rust there in the seam under the undercoat.

Use a magnet checking along the body panels for bondo repairs.

X2 on checking under the battery tray, the acid can take out the firewall under it.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Looks pretty shaky to me.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

OK, I just came back from another look. As far as I can tell, the rust is pretty much confined to the areas in the pictures. Trunk is good, under the rear seat mats is good, battery tray is clean. I poked and prodded the areas around the parts in the pics and it seems solid just an inch or 2 away from the obvious rust. I wasn't able to pull the plastic wheel well covering to get a deeper look, however. It just seemed very solid by the tap method.

Other issues are fairly common, according to what I have read here and elsewhere. Cracked dash, ageing wood issues on the console, sticky on one side and non-functioning rear windows, slow throttle response (adjustment I think), weird shifting points. I crawled underneath and saw nothing really amiss. Typical jet black oily goo, but not as bad as I thought. Smoke coming from inside the engine copmartment, probably from some dripping on the exhaust manifold. Someone ran over a big rock and caved in the exhaust just next to the oil pan about halfway. I thought it was in pretty good shape for a machine of that year and mileage. It doesn't look as if it were "lovingly maintained" however.

I am looking for a project that I can inch away at and restore at a leisurely pace while driving it. I am going to low ball the guy and offer $800 hoping he counters at $1000.Thanks guys!!