I know this has been threaded to death but, in my search attempts to figure out what vac lines to block, I am still a bit confused.
I removed all the lines, from inside the black box on the cam cover, that attached to the connector that has all the external vac lines going to it and put plugs on the, now exposed nipples inside the black box.
I also plugged the vac line to the egr.
Will that take care of it?

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

How about where the vac lines meet near the firewall?
A 240 is a different beast, do you have a butterfly in the intake?

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83 SD

84 CD

Just plugging the vacuum line at the EGR valve should do it.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

No and I will have to look

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

Ya but that doesn't prevent vac leaks like remvong the valves altogether.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Well, The original post was about eliminating the EGR, not vacuum leaks. And that vacuum-valve gizmo on the valve-cover of my automatic 240D seems to have some effect on my tranny shifts, so I wouldn't go willy-nilly yanking & disconnecting stuff.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Since I plugged all the ports on the black box connector, doesn't that mean I have essentially removed all the valves from the system?
I went through the vac system when I bought the car and replaced most rubber parts , fixed leaks and all components in the system now operate properly so I think leaks are negligible..
I am awaiting my rebuilt injectors so I can't test the car yet.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

It does.

However, the older 240's required vacuum to control the timing of the shifts as they did not have a Bowden cable. If this is your situation, you'll find that your efforts will be in vain and the shifts will be very late.

My posts concerning the removal of the lines to the black box were strictly related to the 617 turbo engine in both the W126 and W123.

do you have any quick links to these posts? i went to search through your statistics and your post count was, obviously, overwhelming!

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1985 300D - 1984 Euro 280E AMG Clone (SOLD) - 1978 280CE (SOLD) - 1983 300D (SOLD) - 1981 300D (SOLD)

Here are the steps to remove the superflous lines on a 300 turbo:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=1375506&postcount=5

I believe that they would be quite applicable. A 1983 300D (Squabble's vehicle) is a W123.

Ahh.........too early this morning..........thought it was the OP............

OK, but will I see any result from plugging the vac line to the egr ?

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

Your result will be to effectively disable the EGR.

That assumes your EGR valve is even still working. At this age, they're often plugged-up by carbon, corroded shut, or the vacuum-diaphragm has rotted.
Worst case is that the EGR valve could be stuck open, permitting constant exhaust recirculation. Where I've seen this occur on gassers, that would cause very poor idling and stalling.
I haven't had any problem with a faulty EGR on a 240D, except when I mis-connected one of the EGR-system vacuum lines on my automatic car (other than the one directly to the EGR valve), my tranny didn't want to upshift.
On my recently-purchased stick-240D, the EGR-valve line was discoonnected and plugged and it runs just fine.
I haven't tried (and may not bother) reconnecting it to see if it makes any difference.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW