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  #16  
Old 07-29-2009, 06:48 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
What would I do? Drop the transmission and figure out what was wrong with the car, then continue to drive it for another 10 years without incident (fingers crossed). This is really an easy job on one of the easiest cars ever built to work on. If you can't do this yourself, you're not cut out for 240D stick ownership- find the car a new owner. Sorry for the "toughlove" response, but $1K+ to do this is really silly.

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2009, 07:39 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Since you mentioned rust free body, I think the car does deserve some attention. You said you replaced the clutch slave and master cylinder. Were they leaking before? Other problems? I am trying to understand if the tranny/clutch is/was bad or if the hydralic system was bad. You said you bleed the system several times. I did too and still had problems. I knew my transmission worked before I replaced the parts though.
The master clutch cylinder I have came with two different length push rods. I had in the longer of the two. I spent probabl 6 months trying to figure this out. I finally, pulled the slave cylinder off and bleed the system by pushing in that rod and opening the nipple on the slave cylinder. I did this serveral times and still had problems. I took out the Master cylinder rod. Then I tried to put it back in. There was at least a 1/4 inch hole to hole misalignment. I had the old rod from the replaced MC. I cut it down and the clutch still would engage, but I had pressure. For some reason, I forced the shifter into gear, and it popped. Then everything was fine. I found the other shorter rod later, but haven't installed it yet.
Tom
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  #18  
Old 07-29-2009, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankowner View Post
I just bought a manual 240D and I think I will be digging into the transmission soon. I've never done the job, but it doesn't sound that terrible (I can say that now). When I depress the clutch I get a terrible squealing noise, which I believe it probably the throw-out bearing. The PO said he replaced the clutch about 20,000 miles ago - should I just replace the throw-out bearing and call it a day?
You should probably clarify that you will be digging into the clutch system soon. Internal transmission trouble is rare, the most common being worn synchro rings resulting in hard shifting/grinding of gears, which is after many, many miles. You should find out what exactly the PO replaced. If all he replaced was the friction disc, then you're going to want to replace the throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot bearing, but leave the friction disc. You generally want to replace all four of those at the same time, unless you really can't afford it.
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  #19  
Old 07-29-2009, 01:20 PM
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Location: Buffalo NY
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If you get a screech when you touch the clutch pedal, STAY OFF OF IT! The throwout bearing will tear up the pressure plate when it fails, maybe pull a finger out. If you have a pressure plate that doesn't slip and is within wear/condition limits, I don't see a reason to throw an unnecesary $250 in there. If the plate is still flat and not grooved, many would dress it w/ sandpaper or carborundum cloth and call it a day.

Replace the rubber donuts between the driveshaft segments if they appear worn. $30 or $40 a piece, but cheaper than the damage a flailing driveshaft causes.
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  #20  
Old 07-29-2009, 01:40 PM
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Location: West Virginia
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Exclamation Hmmm.....

there are folks around here that would use that manual transmission in their 300D's....so it should be fairly easy to sell that car for at least enough to recoup your investment....

SB
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  #21  
Old 07-29-2009, 03:45 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Columbia, MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
If you get a screech when you touch the clutch pedal, STAY OFF OF IT! The throwout bearing will tear up the pressure plate when it fails, maybe pull a finger out. If you have a pressure plate that doesn't slip and is within wear/condition limits, I don't see a reason to throw an unnecesary $250 in there. If the plate is still flat and not grooved, many would dress it w/ sandpaper or carborundum cloth and call it a day.

Replace the rubber donuts between the driveshaft segments if they appear worn. $30 or $40 a piece, but cheaper than the damage a flailing driveshaft causes.
Well, I just bought it and had to drive it home, but aside from that it is parked until I can see to the various things that need fixin.

Apologies to chetwesley - didn't mean to highjack the thread. I will start my own once I begin work on the clutch system. Thanks for the advice guys, I will be back for more.

Oh, and to answer the orginal question . . .

I agree with others that I wouldn't throw down the money to pay someone to do this. Therefore, it is up to you. If you can't find a weekend to make this happen, then just unload it to someone who will fix it up. A good compromise that has been mentioned would be to find a shadetree mechanic to do the work at a much reduced cost.

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