97 E300D Fuel Filter Replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

treiberg · #1 08-05-2009, 01:14 PM

Is changing this fuel filter just as easy as removing it and putting a new one in its place? Any other precautions, like priming pump or anything? I also have the small pre-filter to change also. From what I read, it is a good idea to pre-fill the filter with fuel to save time when re-starting engine. (Some folks out there use ATF fluid instead of diesel according to one thread to fill the filter!). Looks like a pretty easy job.

lupin..the..3rd · #2 08-05-2009, 01:40 PM

Yes, do pre-fill the new filter before screwing it on. I fill mine with PowerService fuel additive. I would only use diesel fuel or a diesel fuel additive. Not ATF or Mystery oil or anything else.

Yes, it's as simple as you think it is. Just don't overtighten the bolt, the metal that the filter is made of is soft and will strip out easily. You do *NOT* want metal shavings in your fuel.

When you do the pre-filter, also change the O ring that goes around it.

treiberg · #3 08-05-2009, 02:19 PM

Thanks so much, will give it a try!

Parrot of Doom · #4 08-05-2009, 03:57 PM

It isn't that simple, because if it were you wouldn't have to worry about flattening your battery while cranking to purge the air...

chazola · #5 08-06-2009, 07:18 AM

I've never had a problem getting started after fuel filter replacement as long as the filter is full of fuel. I usually top it off with some injector cleaner. You may need to give it more gas until the air is purged out, try not to let it stall on the first start-up or you might have trouble.

That o-ring on the pre-filter should be changed or transferred as lupin said- amazingly it doesn't come with the pre-filter and is a seperate service item... you get nightmare issues if you forget to install the o-ring on the pre-filter- I learned the hard way at 1am on a freezing winter night

777funk · #6 08-06-2009, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chazola

I've never had a problem getting started after fuel filter replacement as long as the filter is full of fuel. I usually top it off with some injector cleaner. You may need to give it more gas until the air is purged out, try not to let it stall on the first start-up or you might have trouble.

That o-ring on the pre-filter should be changed or transferred as lupin said- amazingly it doesn't come with the pre-filter and is a seperate service item... you get nightmare issues if you forget to install the o-ring on the pre-filter- I learned the hard way at 1am on a freezing winter night

You guys in Europe are lucky to have the later Diesel Wagons. We loose them here after 1987. Not a bad year to end on.... but would have been nicer if we had through 1998 with the turbo 606.

Jeremy5848 · #7 08-06-2009, 11:56 AM

It's hard to place a filter full of fuel in position without spilling fuel all over the engine. Some here have suggested filling the filter 1/2 to 3/4 with the liquid of your choice and letting it sit for a few minutes to make sure it has soaked into all of the material and gotten the air bubble out. Then get the filter in its place but leave the center bolt out. Now use a small funnel and complete filling the filter through the center hole. You can even shim the filter up so that the seals are touching. Once the filter is completely full, engage the bolt (make sure its o-rings are healthy) and tighten snugly. You should be able to start the engine with a minimum of cranking. I do advise running the engine at a slightly higher speed (1000-1500 rpm) for the first minute in case there are a few air bubble that didn't get out of the filter. That will minimize the risk of stumbling and stalling. And mind what the earlier posters said about the o-ring on the primary filter.

sasquatchgeoff · #8 08-06-2009, 09:26 PM

Can someone post a diagram of how the o-ring goes on the primary? Searched high and low in EPC, FSM, MB Russia w/Love, etc - no luck. This is a new one on me and illuminating this little detail may make life in my world easier. TIA

- geoff

Matt L · #9 08-06-2009, 09:29 PM

Once you have a new primary filter in your hand, you will not need a diagram. There is a groove on the outside. You can't miss it (if you're looking for it, that is).

sasquatchgeoff · #10 08-06-2009, 10:14 PM

Here is my filter - it is clear plastic

which end?

TMAllison · #11 08-06-2009, 10:19 PM

SASQ - You are talking apples and oranges.

The OP is talking about a '97 OM606.912 (has a cannister and a "pre-filter")and you are referring to an earlier engine using different filters.(ps: look for an arrow on the plastic casting)

sasquatchgeoff · #12 08-06-2009, 10:23 PM

ahhh - thanks - I was getting nervous there - I almost dismantled my fuel lines before I read this post. Woulda been kinda fun anyway - ...I love the smell of diesel in the evening... reminds me of....

jt20 · #13 08-06-2009, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lupin..the..3rd

Yes, it's as simple as you think it is. Just don't overtighten the bolt, the metal that the filter is made of is soft and will strip out easily. You do *NOT* want metal shavings in your fuel.

Mr. Lupin

What would you say is the torque spec for that?

Jeremy5848 · #14 08-07-2009, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

Mr. Lupin

What would you say is the torque spec for that?

Looks like it is 25 N-M or 18 ft-lbs. Can't find a specific listing in my [paper] factory engine manuals (it's there somewhere) but those are the numbers that the Haynes manual on the 124 gives. Should be the same for pretty much all of them.