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#1
08-10-2009, 01:27 PM
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Made a serious mistake with the aluminum head on my OM606...
Yesterday, I had re-sized some bolts and I was test fitting them in the aluminum head. I screwed one in about 1/2" with my fingers ONLY and it began to get tight so I stopped and began to back it out.
All was well for a few turns when it suddenly began to get tight and quickly ground to a halt. At this point, no amount of screwing in or out moved the bolt and I nearly broke the tool trying to get it back out. So, I finally ended up breaking to bolt off and now I'm stuck either using a Dremel tool to eat away the aluminum or take it to a shop and have it EDM'd since it was a class 10.8 bolt... Moral of the story: Always put a drop of oil of fastners that are screwed into aluminum!
__________________
-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 
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#2
08-10-2009, 01:40 PM
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Why did the bolt seize do you think? Are you supposed to use anti-seize on them like spark plugs in Al heads?
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png Last edited by Oldwolf; 08-10-2009 at 03:16 PM.
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#3
08-10-2009, 02:12 PM
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Anti Sieze on ALL Fasteners used with Aluminum
Every Time!
__________________
'84 300SD sold 124.128
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#4
08-10-2009, 02:29 PM
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BUT note the torque requirements; if the book calls out torque for a dry bolt, you will need to reduce the torque for lubricated threads.
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 Gone to the dark side - Jeff
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#5
08-10-2009, 02:38 PM
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What messed me up was that I thought I was safe just threading the bolt in by hand. Appearently, there was enough of an edge left on the tip of the bolt where I had cut it off - even after grinding, to shear off some aluminum fragments which became "intimate" with the steel bolt effectively jamming it... grrrrrr
__________________
-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250
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#6
08-10-2009, 04:31 PM
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ugh.....I need to bookmark this one and re-read it every time I start thinking about replacing my w123 with a later model.....
Good luck!
__________________
 Current Mercedes 1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed Gone and fondly remembered: 1980 orient red 240D 4-speed Gone and NOT fondly remembered: 1982 Chna Blue 300TD Other car in the stable: 2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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#7
08-10-2009, 05:38 PM
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Gospel
Quote:
__________________
 "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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#8
08-10-2009, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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#9
08-10-2009, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Car factories (and many mechanics) often don't use anti-seize because it's an extra step that adds time and material to the cost of the vehicle. Besides, when the problem is eventually discovered, they'll be long gone. Anti-seize is especially important in cases of (a) dissimilar metals (b) heat (c) presence of water or other ionic liquids (d) long service intervals e.g., glow plugs, spark plugs (whatever they are  ), exhaust manifold bolts, etc.Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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#10
08-10-2009, 06:22 PM
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Man that sucks! I had trouble with a bolt in alum once, I put so much force on it I twisted the 3/8" extension, with my bare hands!
__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42
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#11
08-10-2009, 07:12 PM
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Also, if you are going to "resize" bolts, make sure you file off the sharp edge, and chase it with a die.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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#12
08-10-2009, 07:36 PM
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I ground them down to a nice rounded tip but I guess there was still a sharp enough edge to strip some of the aluminum off and jam the threads.
I was just flabbergasted since I had simply spun the bolt in with my fingers, bottomed it out then started to spin it back out when it stuck tight.
__________________
-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250
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#13
08-10-2009, 09:08 PM
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That is surprising, that finger tight would bind like that. Sorry to hear that it happened. Can you get the bolt out, hopefully the head is not toast now.
__________________
1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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#14
08-10-2009, 09:22 PM
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It's not in a critical location but it's just annoying to have to do extra work and get it fixed. I have another broken stud on the exhaust manifold to extract as well but that stud is not so hard as the other one...
__________________
-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250
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